Took delivery of our 300C finally!

[Urban350]

Impressive.
So, do you find the 2KW inverter sufficient? Can't ell by the spec sheet, is there 2 AC inputs and 2 AC outputs? And if not, are you supplying inverter power to only one side of the panel?
Since you have a transfer switch did you install the inverter before or after?

I have Heart KW unit that I though when I bought it had the 2-in 2 out AC legs. Since we do have the generator and the automatic transfer switch I was hoping to be able to just put the inverter in line between the transfer switch and panel. I could use it on only one side but this past summer I ended up moving some of the loads around on the panel to balance it out.

With my 2812 it powers the whole trailer (both sides of the panel). It is wired this way, remember it is also my battery charger and has it's own transfer switch. Shore power comes into the factory transfer switch for the generator then from there to the inverter transfer switch, then to the panel it is just that simple lol... The only problem with this is that the whole trailer is live so I have to make sure my fridge is manualy on propane.

 

[TwoGypsies]

Great Post Cooter!
Getting energy from moonlight is cool. I'd like to hear more about your roof coating, and also whether you've got an outcome on your upgraded brake wiring yet.

Thx!

 

[porthole]

With my 2812 it powers the whole trailer (both sides of the panel). It is wired this way, remember it is also my battery charger and has it's own transfer switch. Shore power comes into the factory transfer switch for the generator then from there to the inverter transfer switch, then to the panel it is just that simple lol... The only problem with this is that the whole trailer is live so I have to make sure my fridge is manually on propane.

Tim, gotcha - your previous post listed the 2012. Scratch that - Tim versus Tony mix up here.

The 1 in- 1 out is what will be my decision maker. Really want both legs to work as you have it.

Why switch over the fridge? Using the LPG versus the sun?

No my curiosity will be using multiple transfer switches.
The switches in most inverters are almost instant, whereas the trailer transfer switch has a built in delay. Now throw in a Progressive EMS, which also has a delay.

My first thought is:
Shore power or generator --> trailer transfer switch --> Progressive EMS --> Inverter --> AC panel (both sides)

 

[CrazyCooter]

My MS2012 has the dual input/output, so worries there. I have it wired after the OE transfer switch. The MS2012 has been plenty except I think the MS2812 would power the A/C for short periods and that could be nice just to cool things off before bed when the rig is warm and has that slightly bigger charger. Most of my loads are really small except the microwave and air compressor which really don't run much. The transfer from shore/inverter power are seamless. I have popped the breaker in the house while charging at high current and never saw a blip from the TV's.

I have been thinking about installing a small truesine inverter for just my satellite DVR so the big one won't run 24/7.

I have to remember about the fridge too. I run it on A/C while on the road and during the day since power is free. Strong desert side winds seem to blow out the flame sometimes.

I don't blame you for not wanting to play with the 8D's.....160lbs ea were not really all that fun, but hoping I won't touch them for 7-11 years. Fit was one motivation and for the money vs. GC2's I got 150AH more for the same money. 12V batts also slightly discharge/charge faster due to thinner plates and using less cable jumpers making high power inverter use maybe a little more efficient? I know splitting hairs.....

I got my equipment from all kinds of sources. I knew dropping $5-6K on this system was going to be painful so I really shopped around. The outback I got from a seller on Amazon. The solar panels came from a local supply house where my contractor buddy buys his supplies, Platt Electric. I can't remember where I got the Magnum stuff, but shop around there......I found a supplier that was 40% less than most. I got all the Magnum equipment from different suppliers as the prices per unit were all over the board.

I thought I had updated you guys on the brakes, Sorry! I ran 10ga from the pin to axles and hooked it parallel to the tiny OE wire and it mad all the difference! Next I'm going to get away from the Prodigy P3 as I just can't get it balanced right. Not enough adjustment.......at higher speeds, starting with only 6v output to start is not nearly enough and 6V is way too much at low speeds. I'm thinking about the Max Brake? Anyone play with those?

The roof coating, Son Shield, is something my Dad turned me onto. He manages an RV shop and uses it to repair/replace roofs that are damaged and would otherwise have to be stripped off/replaced. Save tons of labor and the insulation benefit is a plus. It is designed for painting above ground pipelines and tanks I guess to keep them cool. He gets it from a local alternative energy shop. There are other brands I have found on the net. I saw a 7 deg drop in bedroom temps one day to the next parked in the same spot at the same ambient temps.

 

[Urban350]

The 1 in- 1 out is what will be my decision maker. Really want both legs to work as you have it.

Why switch over the fridge? Using the LPG versus the sun?

My first thought is:
Shore power or generator --> trailer transfer switch --> Progressive EMS --> Inverter --> AC panel (both sides)

I switch over the fridge because I only have 300watts of solar panels and the fridge is a heavy drain, and I prefer to leave that for dw hair dryer (oops did I say that out loud) and Magaritaville drink maker lol...

I left out my Progress ems. So here is how I have it.
Shore power --> Progressive EMS --> trailer transfer switch --> Inverter --> AC panel

Tim

 

[CrazyCooter]

I switch over the fridge because I only have 300watts of solar panels and the fridge is a heavy drain, and I prefer to leave that for dw hair dryer (oops did I say that out loud) and Magaritaville drink maker lol...

I left out my Progress ems. So here is how I have it.
Shore power --> Progressive EMS --> trailer transfer switch --> Inverter --> AC panel

Tim

The 24ah the refer uses drains things real fast!

 

[TwoGypsies]

Thanks for the info on brake wiring and roof coating Cooter,
I can't help you on brake controller question. I have Ford's integrated system in my 2011 and no prior experience with them. I run 8.5 to 9.5 as a setting and can tell the brakes are helping but suspect they could be stronger. I'm going to run the 10 gauge wire as it makes all kind of sense to me.

 

[CrazyCooter]

Took a few more pics today while I was cleaning up from the last trip. We had the dust storm of the century at Stovepipe Wells and you can see all the dust in the cabinets.


Inverter controller in the entry cabinet:

Outback solar charge controller:

Front generator cabinet gutted for the batteries and electric chest freezer/refer:

Reinforcement x-members welded to the Correct Track spring hangers to keep the frame from breaking at the OE x-members. These made a huge difference in handling....much straighter behind the truck:

While it was in for warranty service to fix my flexing garage wall, we took advantage of the open wall and installed 12V power in the wall via Anderson Power Pole wall plate, another remodel box/conduit for my antenna coax (The wife and I are HAMs) The stainless plate will contain so239's and the radios will connect there. We also installed 120v outlet near the floor for charging the bike and etc.

Relocated the Fantastic Fan thermostat so it can be turned on without climbing all over the bikes....are you reading here AJ?

Installed a propane quick disconnect in the garage for a catalytic heater....

Adjustable floor vents to actually get some heat flow into the bedroom and not roast out the living space...

Installed a real fire extinguisher and catalytic heater in the kitchen cabinet...

Moved the tiny fire extinguisher to the bedroom....in case we ever have to fight our way out. I can't imagine falling 8-9' out the bedroom window....

A nice middle of the road JVC DVD player to replace that POS the manufacturer uses....reading AJ?

Toggle switch for the transfer pump.....the aux tank can now be used for fueling up toys. It was totally useless until I installed the pump since I don't have a generator to feed.......reading this AJ?

Winegard satellite tracker switch....easy with 12V in that cabinet already..

 

[CrazyCooter]

Since I have a real truck with a long bed, no point in having that long goose neck pin box "Cheater Lever" frame flexer built for the short bed crowd.... Morryde pin box replacement for the Lippert 0719 pin box. It is 9" shorter than the 1621HD. This help shorten the combo as Heartland real screwed us by lengthening the trailer and STILL have yet to change the specs on the web site or brochures..... Reading this AJ?

Lots of people complain about the lack of storage in the Ti nose Cyclones. I just got creative and organized...

 

[CrazyCooter]

Holy Cow! After reflecting on all the mods and fixes we have done to the 300C....I think I need a nap! Where did I even find the time to go camping?

 

[porthole]

With the short pin box can you open the tailgate while connected?

Think you can get some info from your Dad on the ceramic coating?

 

[CrazyCooter]

I moved my hitch to the rearmost position and I have 3" clearance for the tail gate to open. My main conceren was for the clearance while turning since I have an over sized aftermarket bumper. The front cabinet is a real close fit to open, and since all my beverages are in there, I like to be able to get in there on the road. You have to hook up strait now or close the gate after the pin makes it into the bed.

I will talk to the old man this week and see if I can get more details. I ran the label info through a google search when I bought it and came up empty. I began to wonder if the solar shop was re-labeling to keep it all secret. Here is their web site: http://advancepower.net/ceramiccoatings.php

 

[71stang99]

lots of great ideas and thanks for the photos. hopefully I can get mine back out and figure out the bugs I was having last summer. Definately need to look into the brake issue as my integrated controller was on 9.5 for it to actually do something. awesome idea about relocation the FF thermostat as its not convienent in the garage.

 

[CrazyCooter]

Forgot to mention I'm going to install a second thermostat in the bedroom for the heat. In the winter we have one **** of a time regulating the bedroom temps. Always too hot or cold....

 

[CrazyCooter]

Got tired of freezing my head and backside off in the winter...

Insulated both under the bed and that headboard insert that goes into the nose with Reflectix. Gonna do the basement and garage floor next.

 

[CrazyCooter]

Tonight's project....find the water leak that I have suspected since delivery....

Too moist in the front cap causing delamination of the fake wood?

Water pooled in the front cap:

Dry the area:

Baby powder used for water tracking:

Make a dam down the center from silicone to isolate right from left:

Artificial weather:

 

[CrazyCooter]

Hmmm...

Yep! Houston, we have a problem....

I don't know exactly how it is getting in, but in the LF corner at that height, it looks to be only possible at the joints where the roof/cap/sidewall area meet. Seem impossible since the first thing we did after delivery was reseal the whole rig for insurance from this....

 

[porthole]

What are we looking at here? You pictures are too detailed to see the "big picture"

 

[CrazyCooter]

The pool of water is in the lower left front corner of the front fiberglass cap right where it tucks under the first time.

 

[71stang99]

great, something else to worry about and my trailer, at least its in a climate without much rain. thanks for posting.