Tow rating of 2000 Ram 2500 with factory tow options

[DougKirby]

Hi,
Please help, I am looking at a truck that is being sold by the daughter of the elderly owner, neither can help with the tow rating information that I am looking for, if the two ratings are suitable I will then buy a 5th wheel to suit the truck.

The truck is a 2000 Ram 2500 diesel, quad cab, 8' bed that was fitted with factory tow options as listed below.
I have found towing information on various websites on the standard truck but not with the options this truck has.

I contacted Dodge customer service who only have the standard truck information, their advice was to try some Dodge forums, so here I am.

I would very much appreciate your help, thanks.

Regards
Doug

Nameplate says date of manufacture is 9-99.

From the Dodge website:- 2000 DODGE RAM 2500 P/U QUAD CAB New vehicle options as supplied from the factory with this vehicle are below, some are irrelevant but I thought that I should provide all the info I have. Heavy duty service group Trailer tow group Camper special group 5.9L TD Eng(ETC) 6SPD M/T NV5600(DEE 136A Alt 4 wheel anti lock brakes 6 SPD heavy duty trans 4.10 Diff Dana M80 Rear Axle - Anti spin Cummins I6 24 valve engine Air Con Federal emissions Delete evap control system Eng block heater Speed control Heavy duty engine cooling Spring - all wheels Package 2HG Package 2TG Cargo box

P.S.
Only one recall I have found so far was for the tow hitch, this has been checked as OK.
Are there any known issues with this truck ?
Is anti spin diff a limited slip system to transfer power to a wheel that is rotating much slower than the other one ?
Is speed control an exhaust brake ?
Thanks.

 

[danemayer]

Hi DougKirby,

Welcome to the Heartland Owners Forum. We've got a lot of people who have longstanding experience with trucks so it's likely someone may be able to help.

 

[alexb2000]

Welcome Doug-

Excellent truck IMO and very well optioned. Bomb proof drivetrain.

I would look for a fifth wheel in the 10K lb. dry range for that truck.

Anti-spin keeps both rear wheel spinning, so if one rear wheel was in mud for example and spinning the other would still give you traction.

No factory exhaust brake, but since you have a 6 speed you can add a real exhaust brake. (Speed control means cruise control).

http://www.dieselpowerproducts.com/...ke-kit-985-02-59l-dodge-cummins-24-valve.aspx

You could probably drive that truck for the rest of your life even if you are 20.

Let us know if you have any other questions.

Hi,
Please help, I am looking at a truck that is being sold by the daughter of the elderly owner, neither can help with the tow rating information that I am looking for, if the two ratings are suitable I will then buy a 5th wheel to suit the truck.

The truck is a 2000 Ram 2500 diesel, quad cab, 8' bed that was fitted with factory tow options as listed below.
I have found towing information on various websites on the standard truck but not with the options this truck has.

I contacted Dodge customer service who only have the standard truck information, their advice was to try some Dodge forums, so here I am.

I would very much appreciate your help, thanks.

Regards
Doug

Nameplate says date of manufacture is 9-99.

From the Dodge website:- 2000 DODGE RAM 2500 P/U QUAD CAB New vehicle options as supplied from the factory with this vehicle are below, some are irrelevant but I thought that I should provide all the info I have. Heavy duty service group Trailer tow group Camper special group 5.9L TD Eng(ETC) 6SPD M/T NV5600(DEE 136A Alt 4 wheel anti lock brakes 6 SPD heavy duty trans 4.10 Diff Dana M80 Rear Axle - Anti spin Cummins I6 24 valve engine Air Con Federal emissions Delete evap control system Eng block heater Speed control Heavy duty engine cooling Spring - all wheels Package 2HG Package 2TG Cargo box

P.S.
Only one recall I have found so far was for the tow hitch, this has been checked as OK.
Are there any known issues with this truck ?
Is anti spin diff a limited slip system to transfer power to a wheel that is rotating much slower than the other one ?
Is speed control an exhaust brake ?
Thanks.

 

[DougKirby]

Welcome Doug-

Excellent truck IMO and very well optioned. Bomb proof drivetrain.

I would look for a fifth wheel in the 10K lb. dry range for that truck.

Anti-spin keeps both rear wheel spinning, so if one rear wheel was in mud for example and spinning the other would still give you traction.

No factory exhaust brake, but since you have a 6 speed you can add a real exhaust brake. (Speed control means cruise control).

http://www.dieselpowerproducts.com/...ke-kit-985-02-59l-dodge-cummins-24-valve.aspx

You could probably drive that truck for the rest of your life even if you are 20.

Let us know if you have any other questions.

Thanks very much for your reply, that gives me a lot to think about, from the Dodge standard truck info and the Heartland info I get the following data, does this look OK ?

I expect the factory tow options on this truck will increase the tow ratings, for my insurance (in case I never need to claim and I need to prove that I am set up OK) do you have the specific tow ratings for this truck please or do you know where I can find them ? It is disappointing that Dodge can't provide this, maybe I need to contact someone other than customer service.

Bighorn 3055RL, from original brochure:-

GVWR - 14000 lbs, Dry - 10,735 lbs, Hitch 1,995 lbs.

Ram Truck, 2000, 2500, Quad cab:-

Info from pickups.com

GVWR - 8,800 LBS (4.1 diff, 6 spd STANDARD TRUCK)

MAX TRAILER - 13,850 LBS (4.1 diff, 6 spd STANDARD TRUCK)

GCWR - 20,000 lbs (4.1 diff, 6 spd STANDARD TRUCK)

Thanks for the exhaust brake info that looks interesting, I will probably look at the RV brakes as an upgrade first as I like the idea of preventing the trailer from pushing the truck around. I think the RV has drum brakes which I would probably change to disc with a control in the cab to adjust the brake bias between the RV and the truck. Do you reckon that is a good idea ?

Thanks.

 

[Doublegranch]

Take the VIN to a local Ram dealer and they can pull up all the specs for that truck. They don't charge for that service.
Good luck....

 

[alexb2000]

Thanks very much for your reply, that gives me a lot to think about, from the Dodge standard truck info and the Heartland info I get the following data, does this look OK ?

I expect the factory tow options on this truck will increase the tow ratings, for my insurance (in case I never need to claim and I need to prove that I am set up OK) do you have the specific tow ratings for this truck please or do you know where I can find them ? It is disappointing that Dodge can't provide this, maybe I need to contact someone other than customer service.

Bighorn 3055RL, from original brochure:-

GVWR - 14000 lbs, Dry - 10,735 lbs, Hitch 1,995 lbs.

Ram Truck, 2000, 2500, Quad cab:-

Info from pickups.com

GVWR - 8,800 LBS (4.1 diff, 6 spd STANDARD TRUCK)

MAX TRAILER - 13,850 LBS (4.1 diff, 6 spd STANDARD TRUCK)

GCWR - 20,000 lbs (4.1 diff, 6 spd STANDARD TRUCK)

Thanks for the exhaust brake info that looks interesting, I will probably look at the RV brakes as an upgrade first as I like the idea of preventing the trailer from pushing the truck around. I think the RV has drum brakes which I would probably change to disc with a control in the cab to adjust the brake bias between the RV and the truck. Do you reckon that is a good idea ?

Thanks.

Disk trailer brakes are always good. If you told me I had to tow a heavy trailer with your truck down wolf creek pass in CO, I would rather have trailer with good drum brakes and an exhaust brake vs. disks on the trailer. The other thing you might consider is an air bag setup to level out the load.
Just my opinion, all upgrades are good.

On paper with dry weights you should be fine, unless you think the insurance company is going to bring out a set of scales. I don't put a ton of confidence in those charts because there are a lot of variables, air bags, exhaust brake, trailer brake upgrades, etc., but I understand where you are coming from.

 

[DougKirby]

Disk trailer brakes are always good. If you told me I had to tow a heavy trailer with your truck down wolf creek pass in CO, I would rather have trailer with good drum brakes and an exhaust brake vs. disks on the trailer. The other thing you might consider is an air bag setup to level out the load.
Just my opinion, all upgrades are good.

On paper with dry weights you should be fine, unless you think the insurance company is going to bring out a set of scales. I don't put a ton of confidence in those charts because there are a lot of variables, air bags, exhaust brake, trailer brake upgrades, etc., but I understand where you are coming from.

Thanks to you and Doublegranch for your advice and assistance, I will check out the options you mentioned and also see if the local dealer can help with specifics, or if someone reads this and has the figures it would be great to hear from them.
Thanks.

 

[CDN]

Buddy of mine has the same truck. At 300,000 miles he replaced the fuel pump. That is a weak item and if it hatches very costly damage to injectors etc.

His is cab and half and Purple, I called it Barney! He has custom exhaust, Lives in Vancouver WA and tows across the mountains with a 11,500 GVWR Rockwood, He just put disc brakes on the trailer. That would be a good idea as mentioned.

 

[ramdually4100king]

If you are looking at a Ram you are looking at a long term investment. Don't believe me look at everyone driving a Ford. Every three years they are buying new $70000 trucks because their fords are run down, breaking and the newer Fords can't keep up with a 15 year old Ram.

I have a 2009 Ram, tow a 20k trailer, and plan on keeping it for a while longer.

 

[alexb2000]

If you are looking at a Ram you are looking at a long term investment. Don't believe me look at everyone driving a Ford. Every three years they are buying new $70000 trucks because their fords are run down, breaking and the newer Fords can't keep up with a 15 year old Ram.

I have a 2009 Ram, tow a 20k trailer, and plan on keeping it for a while longer.

Perhaps you meant to post this kind of "everyone that doesn't have the same brand of truck I do is stupid" over on Dodgetalk or some other echo chamber forum where you'll get a lot of thumbs up?

Either that or you're just jealous?

 

[JohnD]

I had a '96 Dodge Ram 1500 for 18 years and loved it.

Sold it three years ago at 164,000+ miles on it . . . original engine, tranny, driveshaft, exhaust (except catalytic converter).

Did have the water pump, radiator and gas pump replaced at around 150,000 miles.

The new owner used it to make five trips back and forth to Rochester, NY pulling a car trailer to haul his restored car collection back to NY State.

It still lives back there with well over 200,000 miles, and probably one of the only '96 Dodge Ram's back there with no rust on it..

He did tell me that the tranny finally died at around 195,000 miles on it.

 

[DougKirby]

Thanks to you and everyone who helped out with replies.
The truck has passed its inspection, I am awaiting an email but verbally have been told the tow rating, with the factory tow options fitted to the truck is 14185 lbs.
Cheers Doug

 

[bwdt]

I own a 2000 Dodge ram 2500 and have owned it for 13 years and used it for towing cross country. The autos are very weak when towing. went through 4 Dodge transmissions and three of them were supposedly built and still didn't last. The six speed is OK but if it breaks be prepared to spend a lot of money to repair, my brothers broke. The steering is very week as well, but is upgrade-able. The brakes are weak but you can put larger 3rd gen brakes on the truck for very little money if you put larger wheels on it. This will increase the stopping power of the truck by 20-25%. The exhaust brake is the way to go. The rear end in the auto truck is weak as well and will only last about 100-150,000 miles if towing between rebuilds, but the Dana 80 in the manual trucks will hold up fine.
My truck as its sits today.
Allison transmission( got fed up with the Dodge transmissions leaving me stranded half way across the country)
271 transfer case instead of the 241, due to Allison install.
Ford style drive line, much stronger.
Upgraded fuel pump
Upgraded steering system with upgraded track bar and radius arm suspension like the new trucks. What a difference and no more death wobble.
Dana 80 rear end after the Dana 70 blew up at just over 200,000 miles.
Second injection pump, lost first one because some idiot put gas in the diesel tank at a fuel stop after hurricane Rita.
19.5 Wheels and tires after losing a tire while towing in down town Houston traffic after hurricane Rita while towing at around 20,000 lbs, (never want to repeat that)
Upgraded front brakes to 3rd gen, second gen brakes never lasted and the rotors were always cracked. (My truck was the very 1st truck to do this mod as I figured out how to do it)
New engine when my engine block cracked (53 series blocks crack, check the block and make sure its not a 53, Look this up)
Some power upgrades as well, but this truck is used for towing.
New dash and all 2nd gen dodges and the third gen dodge trucks dashes crack.
Custom front bumper due to hitting black ice in the mountains, not dodge related.
I'm sure I missed some things.

My truck probably weighs in at around 8000 lbs empty with a GVW rating from the factory of 8800 lbs, The tow capacity is probably around 30,000 lbs with the suspension, brake, and drive line upgrades, and the frame seems to by fine but I'm sure that its not as strong as the newer trucks. (But I would never tow that heavy)

My opinion of Dodge trucks is the same as all of the manufactures, they all will take short cuts when ever they can. You are better off buying way more truck than what you think you need.

Do I know the 2000 Dodge truck YES! but not by choice. A lot of the work was done by me, and I use to be a Mechanic by trade and built race cars for a while. I prefer not to work on vehicles though.

This is my fist post on this forum and if you have any specific questions about what to look for, I'm glad to help.

I'm also looking at purchasing a new Heartland Traveler by the end of this year, so I hope to be around for a while.

Good luck out there.

 

[justafordguy]

Perhaps you meant to post this kind of "everyone that doesn't have the same brand of truck I do is stupid" over on Dodgetalk or some other echo chamber forum where you'll get a lot of thumbs up?

Either that or you're just jealous?

I was thinking the same thing.

 

[CoveredWagon]

I was thinking the same thing.

Im feeling left out. He didn’t rag on Chevys LOL

I’m sure it’ll be coming now lol 😆

 

[Bob&Patty]

BTWD, all the up grades sound great. But it does not increase the "LEGAL" towing rate. Not a put down, just facts.

 

[justafordguy]

BTWD, all the up grades sound great. But it does not increase the "LEGAL" towing rate. Not a put down, just facts.

I guess that depends on what your word "LEGAL" is referring to. What weight is legal varies by state. Here in Florida the only thing that determines the legal weight limit of a vehicle is the gross weight it is registered for and the capacity of the tires/axles.

 

[farside291]

Im feeling left out. He didn’t rag on Chevys LOL

I’m sure it’ll be coming now lol 😆

I had a Chevy...traded it for a Dodge, you know why? Only because the price was right. All 3 are great trucks and they will pull a mountain! I would love to have an older 5.9 Cummins powered truck. They run 4-Ever!

 

[bwdt]

I have several friends who work in the dept of transportation and they have told me along with some Highway patrol officers that the GVW on a personal transportation vehicle is determined by tire and axle rating. A lot of the GVW ratings that are put on older vehicles have nothing to do with capacity but every thing to do with regulations. When the manufactures got into my truck is more powerful and my truck can tow more race, which didn't really exist back in 2000, things started changing. In Ca. they even started writing tickets and pulling over drivers in 1 ton trucks because the claim was made that if the truck had a GVW rating higher than 10,000 lbs it required a special commercial license and they could be using it above 10,000 lbs. I call this revenue enhancement, or we steal more form you because you are to dumb to stop us. Sucker!

I've had 5200 lbs in the bed of my truck (102 sheets of drywall) truck sat level and was just touching the overloads. The guy at home depot said he had never put this much in a truck, not even a dually ford and they would sag badly with a far less weight. This does not mean I intend on driving in an unsafe manner.
There's a story about a guy who loaded up some specially built trailer and had a combined weight of around 45000+ lbs and drove cross country. He got stopped and even went through some weigh stations. He had no issues because it was all his own stuff, not for hire signs were all over his truck. You can look it up online.

The point of these post was that all trucks have their weaknesses and to be aware of them, and I wanted to help the person who was looking at purchasing a 2nd gen dodge, so that he could make an informed decision before purchasing one.

Just a note: My truck when it came from the factory weighed approx. 7400 lbs with fuel and passengers. This means that I had a total of 1200 lbs of carrying capacity even with the camper package, a complete joke with a 3/4 ton truck.

 

[SNOKING]

Fairly good truck with in it's limits. First thing is gauges. Fuel Pressure, Boost and pre turbo EGT. The 2000 6 speeds had a smaller input shaft that people worried about. The 4:10's with the six speed means it will pull a house over, however RPM will be a little busy on the freeway. We towed a 12,400 5th wheel with a 2001.5(four wheel disc brakes), 4:10's and auto(with a better OD ratio .69 for 4:10's verse the manual .73). Engine was pumped up to 325/650-700. It did well. I was over 10K on the truck a lot, however Washington registers tonnage and it was registered at 12K per their formula.

An exhaust brake is almost a must have item, as the Cummins holds back very little on compression without one.

I believe the combined weight was rated at 18K that year. I was at 20.5K alot of the time. We towed of 11 years with our 2nd gen.

If you like turning wrenches and doing your own work it is an excellent choice.

The 24V are the noisiest vintage of the RAM trucks.

The camper option really made them a SRW 1 ton with 2500 signage. If it has optional LT265/75R16E tires, they are good for 3415 each, which gives an increased capacity over the listed 6084 RGAWR based on LT245/75R16e's.

Set of RV injectors are a nice inexpensive upgrade. However watch out for clutch as you turn things up.

My VP44 injection pump failed at 52K and I replaced it myself.

Chris