remoandiris
Well-known member
Do you folks always connect the cables to the patio door prior to closing up and driving off? Yes, it is minor to detach the cables and turn the patio into a ramp.
Just wondering.
Just wondering.
Traveling with cables attached to the patio/garage door or not?
- Thread starter remoandiris
- Start date
During our walk thru one of the service techs advised removing the cables. He says they had a unit come in because the rear door would not open. Come to find out the cables were between the door and door jamb not allowing the door to open. It is a pain to hang them up top but for now, until I find something better, mine come off and go inside the in-floor storage compartment.
jeffdee
Well-known member
I leave my cables connected. I make sure that the pinned ends on the ramp are pushed inward towards the center of the ramp so the end of the pin does not contact the door frame when the ramp is in the closed position. I have not had an issue with the cables catching on the 3 season door when lowering the ramp, however, I will start keeping a close eye on that. I prefer setting up or breaking down the rv with the least amount of items being stowed separately.
I have been reading the owners manual but I have not been able to find the total load limit on the ramp in the patio position. It obviously handles 2 average sized adults easily. I was curious if it can handle more adults, or how many total. I know that the ramp is rated for 2500# when loading the garage, however the stresses to the ramp are much different when the ramp is in the patio position vs loading/unloading vehicles.
I have been reading the owners manual but I have not been able to find the total load limit on the ramp in the patio position. It obviously handles 2 average sized adults easily. I was curious if it can handle more adults, or how many total. I know that the ramp is rated for 2500# when loading the garage, however the stresses to the ramp are much different when the ramp is in the patio position vs loading/unloading vehicles.
remoandiris
Well-known member
Usually when I close the door it is a one person job. The cables haven't been pinched yet, but there have been times upon opening that one got underneath the patio screen rails/feet.
Mizmary
Well-known member
I could be wrong. It's been a while since the door to the garage has been opened over here. It's a kids room more than a garage, so.... You get it.
scottyb
Well-known member
I started out keeping them attached but quickly learned that the Mule was the last thing to go in and the 1st thing to come out. It didn't make sense to re-attach them after loading the Mule, then turn around and detach them again before unloading it, at our next destination.
I did have a strange issue pop up last weekend after a 800 mi tow. One of the gate panels for the deck railing shifted toward the outside of the ramp behind the door frame, thus blocking the ramp door from coming open. I had to crawl around to the bed of the Mule (very tight) and slip my knife between the patio doors to slice the velcro tape, that I had attached on the outside to keep them closed. Then I was able to slide the doors open and reach the gate to slide it toward the center where it would clear the door frame. Of course it was about 110 degrees in the garage when we arrived.
I did have a strange issue pop up last weekend after a 800 mi tow. One of the gate panels for the deck railing shifted toward the outside of the ramp behind the door frame, thus blocking the ramp door from coming open. I had to crawl around to the bed of the Mule (very tight) and slip my knife between the patio doors to slice the velcro tape, that I had attached on the outside to keep them closed. Then I was able to slide the doors open and reach the gate to slide it toward the center where it would clear the door frame. Of course it was about 110 degrees in the garage when we arrived.
wiredawgchief
Active Member
I always travel with mine attached. First, It is easier to raise from the level point than from the lowered point. Second, if it should come down to hard, at least it won't knock me down AND land on me. It is important to ensure they are flush to the side when closing. Third, I imagine easier to stow attached than not. No problems so far. Others may see it different and I would be interested in hearing any benefits to not attaching them. Oh, one more thing...It's easier to unfold the patio from the level position than the lowered position. I also have a Mule, it's a two step proicess loading and unloading. I could see doing it if you don't have the patio option. Ron
scottyb
Well-known member
Not sure which Mule you have, but mine completely fills the garage. It has to come out to be able to use the garage for anything. 1st thing I do after setting up is unload the Mule so the ramp goes down and the patio rails get raised. Like you said, it's just a matter of a couple extra steps to connect them, but I find that connecting the cables requires 2 people, unless you have a 3rd arm.
wiredawgchief
Active Member
I have a Kawasaki 4010...the 3950 has a 12' garage, so I have about a foot or so clearance backed in and about two inches in the front between the patio/tailgate. It's a bear squeezing in to secure it. I use ratchet straps, ratchet the rear down first and then the front. I really wanted the 14' garage, but didn't care for the layout on the 14' garage models.Raising and lowering the ramp: I do it by myself and cheat...I use two hands and a leg when raising and lowering. I lower it, undo one side with two hands and place my leg under the ramp and undo the other side. Then I lower the ramp. It's the reverse raising it. I have a bad back so folding/unfolding the patio on the tailgate with it supported. It's very important to have the clips pointed inward and pushed all the way in. I find that folding/unfolding the patio requires wiggling/jiggling as it it always seems to want to bind at the legs. FYI: It's a good idea to carry 2"x4x6"s to use as supports when the ramp is not on level ground. The twisting torque can crack/break the ramp. I have an enclosed car hauler that I used this technique on.To be honest, there is no wrong or right way...just whatever works for you. Take care, Ron
wiredawgchief
Active Member
Porthole (Duane), Howdy. Thanks for the info. Surprisingly, ramp opening/closing procedure doesn't strain me. I'll keep it in mind as time goes on. I'm having an ankle replacement the end of this month, so likely I won't be RVing until Dec or Jan. Thanks and keep 'er between the lines and out of the ditches. Ron
oscar
Well-known member
As some of the posters above, last minute loading and first minute unloading require the door to the ground. So I disconnect the cables from the door, but leave them attached up top. And then.......I put the cables through the sliding door handles left to right and right to left. This keeps them out of the way AND it keeps the sliders closed without the need for additional velcro or bungie. Works well.
wiredawgchief
Active Member
Friends, If it were not for the setting up/closing down the patio option in order to load or unload the Mule, I would not use the cables. Not even sure if the cables come on the ramps if you don't have the patio option. I didn't read if everyone commenting on this thread have the patio option...I keep my cables connected because its easier (for me) to remove the locking pins, unfold the patio and the reverse folding it back up. Opening/closing the ramp and disconnecting/connecting the ramp cables are no problem for me. My only problem with straining my back is bending over or stooping to open the patio up with the ramp lowered to the ground and the reverse. Cheers, Ron
