True hitch weight 3600 & 4007

[bearcat77]

True hitch weight 3600 & 4007

Hello, shopping for our first fifth wheel. Will be upgrading to a long bed diesel GMC Sierra 3500. Would like to stick with a single rear wheel model truck. I was hoping someone could give me some info on the “true” hitch weight of the Cyclone 3600 and 4007. We will not be using the trailer as a toy hauler, we simply like the idea of the kids having their own bedroom and bath to be messy in. In our current travel trailer, we have about 1000 pounds of gear that we carry, and since most of the storage is at the front of the unit, it increases the tongue weight. With the toy hauler, I know I’ll want the hitch weight around 20% of the gross weight, but since most of our gear will be in the garage area, I’m wondering how much of the weight will be negated by having our gear behind the axles. Also, for local trips, we often fill however much water we’ll need while at home. Is the freshwater tank centered over the axles, like it is in our travel trailer?

Thanks for the info!


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[jimtoo]

Hi bearcat77,

Welcome to theHeartland Owners Forum and hopefully to the family. We have a great bunch of folks here with lotsof information and all willing to share their knowledge when needed. I'm sure some of our other Cyclone owners will jump in with some good info for you.
Enjoy the forum and hope to see you in a Heartland unit.
Jim M

 

[Oldelevatorman]

Re: True hitch weight 3600 & 4007

Everyone’s pin weight is going to be different. 20% is a minimum. On my Landmark it’s 23%! The SRW trucks don’t have the payload or axle ratings like a dually. With a large toy hauler you’ll be close or over your trucks ratings on an SRW. I would say your water tank/s are over the axles. Lots of folk tow with the SRW but I’d say look at the numbers closely.


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[hboy1]

Re: True hitch weight 3600 & 4007

I’m wondering how much of the weight will be negated by having our gear behind the axles. Also, for local trips, we often fill however much water we’ll need while at home. Is the freshwater tank centered over the axles, like it is in our travel trailer?

Since you haven't got any hard answers to your question about the specific hitch weight, I will chime in. I have a Road Warrior. I weighted in when the rig was new and empty. The hitch weight was 200lbs lighter than advertised on Heartland website.

By design the toyhaulers seem to be heavier on the hitch than 5th wheel living/bunk floor plans. I think the engineers think we'll travel with 1000lbs of toys in the garage. Our fresh water tank is above the axles.

Our camper was 15,000lbs dry when it was new. I tow with a 3500 SRW short bed truck. My rear axle has a rating of 7,000lbs. When we are loaded with the family, we are pretty much maxed out on the rear axle and tires.

In my experience the truck has plenty of pulling power. The tow is fine. I prefer the 5th wheel connection -v- the bumper pull travel trailer. I have towed in 35+mph sustained cross winds. Mostly flat towing. I have no complains about that. There are defiantly more pros to choosing a dually with the type of load I have and you are looking at. I've never had a blow out on the truck while towing, but I should would feel better about having dual rear wheels if that occurred. I'm comfortable towing with the SRW, but clearing the dually would be better/safer/etc. The worst experiences when towing with the SRW I've had is the highway/bridge expansion joints when the trailer will bounce. When that king pin comes down on the hitch, you definitely know something is behind you.

If you are going to be towing on the highway/highway speeds often, don't settle with the SRW. Just my opinion. My SRW is my daily driver and I don't want a dually. If we traveled more I would probably change to a DRW long bed.

 

[bearcat77]

Re: True hitch weight 3600 & 4007

Thanks for the advice. Since I find myself in parking garages and drive thru’s as often as I go camping, I can’t bring myself to get a dually. So I’ve talked myself down from the ledge, and will probably stick with the little bit lighter Torque line. However, I just started following the rumors on the major overhaul of the GM HD trucks come 2020, so now I’m in a holding pattern until I see what next year’s trucks have to offer. Thanks again.


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[jeffdee]

I have towed with a 1 ton DRW for nearly 4 years now. Previously I have towed with a 3/4 ton SRW. I changed to the DRW after towing a 16k#, 2 axle toy hauler for 18 months. The SRW was rated for a 15.9k# RV. I was right there at capacity for hitch weight and towing capacity. When towing on a windy day, it was mostly white knuckles on the steering wheel. After 18 months of not really enjoying the travel to and from the campgrounds I decided to move up to a DRW. It was a difference of night and day with respect to towing. I highly recommend this change and I also recommend the 4.30 towing gears like I have. When I am not towing but driving around town it feels like driving a half ton pickup. Fuel mileage is 13 to 15 mpg city, and 11 or 12 mpg towing. The only frustration is parking. However, I usually park far out in a lot to avoid door dings.

There are some fellows that brag that their trucks can tow anything. With the new SRW diesel trucks today, yes they can pull 22k# or more, but not safely! Most guys are buying 4x4 today. This is actually reducing towing capacity to 15k#. If you have a hitch weight in excess of 3k# and a 3 axle toy hauler with a loaded weight of 21k# on a towing vehicle with SRW, you are setting yourself up for unsafe consquences. RVing is supposed to be fun! SRW trucks, both 3/4 and 1 ton, really should not be towing any RVs with more than two axles and having loaded weights greater than 16,000#.

Been there, done that! My two cents!