Trying to repack bearings, ran into a few snags. Advice needed!

[danemayer]

I measured the center of the hangars. They are all exactly 29.75" apart. Front, center and back. However, left to right on the frame, they look a little off. The closest approximation I could make was to use a yard stick. On the right side (door side) they seem pretty even. On the left side (the one we are having issues with and the side the hangar was replaced) is off. The front and back ones seem about even, perhaps the rear one is further in but no more than 1/8 inch. However the center one (which as far as I know is original) the outside is flush with the frame where all the others sit inside the frame 1/8 to 1/4"

Maybe some others will chime in, but I think 1/4" offset could be putting a fair amount of twisting stress on the spring packs and shackle links. It would also make it tough to align and get the bolts through the spring eyes and shackle links.

 

[JanAndBill]

Phil that tiny edge is about all you'll ever see and is more than enough. I suspect that the punches you have are not what you need. The punch I use is about 12'' long. It's about 1-1/2" in diameter that has a long taper down to about a 1/2" diameter at the point and machined flat. It's not going to move by pecking on it, so you need something substantial to hold on to so you can swing that hammer without fear. I've had mine for years, so not sure where you could find them, but would suggest Napa or a good parts house. Lean the punch so you can catch the edge on one side and wedge against the hub on the other. You need a 3# hammer or better that you can control. HIT IT, DON'T TAP IT. Rotate the punch 180 degrees in the race and do it again. It shouldn't take over a couple of good licks to knock it out. LIKE I'VE SAID AND OTHERS HAVE SAID wear safety glasses. I've had more than a few face cuts from flying metal.

 

[8amps]

Alrighty, I got down under the trailer and measured from the inner edge of the hangar to the outer edge of the frame. You can't measure from the outer edge of the hangar because the welds make it uneven. Front and center hangars are 2 5/8" from outer edge of frame. Newly installed one (April 2015) is 2 3/4". Is 1/8" enough to effect it? I read through the Lippert Owners manual. It said to measure from the center of the king pin to the edge of the axle. How in the world do you do that? There are too many obstacles... Anything else I should be checking while wheel is off and things are more accessible? We loosened the u-bolts, straightened the spring, and retightened u-bolts and torqued it to 90# and the shackle bolts to 40# (per the Lippert owners manual).

 

[MCTalley]

Is it me, or in the picture last posted of the hub does that look like a lot of wear on the sidewall of the hub assembly? Also, I had to tap out my races and replace them on one hub earlier this year (so I could get the trailer to the dealer to trade it in). I had more of a lip on the outside race than shown here. Wonder if one of us had the wrong bearings? Also, since all I needed to do was get new bearings and races installed to get the trailer 15 miles down the road, I used a regular claw hammer and a big flat-bladed screwdriver to drive my races out (and new ones back in).

When we had the other bearing failure fixed along side of the road, the service person just bought an entire hub assembly (which included bearing races already pre-installed). This might be another option.

 

[Westwind]

When I repacked my bearings this spring I had the help and guidance of a great mechanic (neighbor) who guided me since I had never done anything like that before. I used a medium sized metal paint bucket (Lowes)., a good Chinese bristle brush, and mineral spirits to clean the bearings, race etc. all up. After I did that I was able to inspect the bearings etc. I didn't have any trouble getting the bearings loose other then the gobs of grease.
To put the seal in place he had a small belt pully the width of the seal and I was able to tape them in place, definitely harder to get out.

 

[Terry H]

The last races I removed with an air chisel with a round pointed bit. The races were removed in about 40 seconds without damage to the hub. Before replacing the races I froze the races for easy replacement.

 

[whp4262]

//images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/16/c50c4a6f060f3c79591051e7ac25a34a.jpg[/IMG Posting a pic of the hub helps and here is what you need. Take a bit like this in a die grinder and cut 3 half moon notches into the hub 120 degrees apart just above the inner race face. Only cut enough to be able to get a bite with your punch. You should be able to drive the race out and it will be easier to do it in the future.


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[whp4262]

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[rxbristol]

I noted some use a hammer, but I found the only way to budge the race was with some weight behind the action, hence I use a 4 lb hammer I bought from Harbor Freight.

 

[8amps]

Hello all... so sorry to reach out and then not update what happened. It was a fairly traumatizing experience (ok, I exaggerate) but it was fairly exhausting and quite frustrating. It's all about what you know. Some story comes to mind about charging $20 for parts and $200 for knowing what to do with it...
The first set of races we ended up drilling out notches as suggested to get a better edge, they still took quite a bit of oomph to get them out.

About ten days later, we racked up enough courage and fortitude (and beer) to do the other side. Used a flat edge sharp punch and that did the trick on the first one but the second one was harder, I'm guessing that the edges weren't sharp enough after the first go. But the second side went so much easier than the first. And know feel more confident about what's down there and what it does.
Very glad we did it when we did. The bearings on one side were really chewed up and the seal seemed like it was damaged (prior to us taking it out). Also noticed the shackles were really worn and I'm sure a failure was going to happen sooner than later. Getting down there are looking around and checking things out and torquing (?) bolts was a very good thing.
Thanks again everyone for their input and guidance. It's quite comforting to know you are all here!

 

[Bones]

Hello all... so sorry to reach out and then not update what happened. It was a fairly traumatizing experience (ok, I exaggerate) but it was fairly exhausting and quite frustrating. It's all about what you know. Some story comes to mind about charging $20 for parts and $200 for knowing what to do with it...
The first set of races we ended up drilling out notches as suggested to get a better edge, they still took quite a bit of oomph to get them out.

About ten days later, we racked up enough courage and fortitude (and beer) to do the other side. Used a flat edge sharp punch and that did the trick on the first one but the second one was harder, I'm guessing that the edges weren't sharp enough after the first go. But the second side went so much easier than the first. And know feel more confident about what's down there and what it does.
Very glad we did it when we did. The bearings on one side were really chewed up and the seal seemed like it was damaged (prior to us taking it out). Also noticed the shackles were really worn and I'm sure a failure was going to happen sooner than later. Getting down there are looking around and checking things out and torquing (?) bolts was a very good thing.
Thanks again everyone for their input and guidance. It's quite comforting to know you are all here!

I'm a little late to this show but if your springs are moving I think the bolt in the center of them has sheared off. At some point I think you will need to drop your u-bolts holding the axles on and lower your axles to replace the bolt going through the center of the springs. If not your one spring will continue to move from vibration. I didn't see anyone mention the shackles but they should be replaced too. At least the damaged one.

 

[Westwind]

I'm amazed to hear your difficulty in getting the bearings free of the races. The only thing holding mine in was grease but I do have Dexter axles and maybe that was the difference. The only force I had to apply was getting the seal out of each wheel and replacing it with the new one. Don't know what I would have done if I was in your situation. It's a job that once you start you have to finish, because you sure aren't going anywhere without finishing.

 

[JanAndBill]

I'm amazed to hear your difficulty in getting the bearings free of the races. The only thing holding mine in was grease but I do have Dexter axles and maybe that was the difference. The only force I had to apply was getting the seal out of each wheel and replacing it with the new one. Don't know what I would have done if I was in your situation. It's a job that once you start you have to finish, because you sure aren't going anywhere without finishing.

The OP was referring to removing the "bearing race" from the hub, not the bearings. If your races are so loose in the hub that the only thing holding them is grease, you have a serious problem with your hub.

 

[8amps]

To clarify, yes it was the races not bearings that were difficult to remove. Bearings just slid out. There was plenty of grease throughout. I read somewhere that if your races came out too easily that indicated a problem with your hub, so I guess I'll count that as a blessing. Final verdict on the tools used... a+ for sharp flat edge punch and 4 lb hammer Having the correct tools makes a lot of difference (duh!) and and persistence/patience. Just when we thought they weren't going anywhere, you give it another knock and it would budge.

As for the shackles, they were replaced on both sides where rubbing. We also loosened the u-bolt (supported just axle weight on bottle jack) and pounded the leaf springs even and retightened the clips and then retorqued the u-bolts, shackle bolts, tires lug nuts and one other thing I am forgetting, I'll have to ask Phil. We also inspected the brake wirings, ensured magnet was flat and not worn, and no unusual brake pad or drum wear. The one thing we didn't do was adjust the brakes. I also think we need to replace the bushings but that project had to come to an end since we had to get this show on the road!
It was a big project that was made longer and harder for not knowing what we were doing or having the correct tools needed. The info we got on here was invaluable and I am grateful for all the help and also now the knowledge. Ignorance is not bliss!
Also, as an aside to anyone contemplating this, I'd recommend ordering your parts needed ahead of time at etrailer.com or some similiar site. The local trailer shop vastly overcharged compared to what you could get it online. Live and learn. We will be ordering an extra set to have on hand.
Thanks again everybody!
Mary

 

[Westwind]

Sorry! Confused race with bearing! Shows you how green I am when it comes to the mechanical work.

 

[MTPockets]

Sorry! Confused race with bearing! Shows you how green I am when it comes to the mechanical work.

Actually, to be technical, the piece pressed into the hub is in fact called the outer race, or "cup". The "bearing" consists of the outer race (cup) an inner race with the cage & rollers assembly referred to as the "cone". The cone Is A slip fit onto the trailer axle. So, the cup and cone combined is a bearing. Or, to be more precise, in this case, a tapered roller bearing.

 

[Mrsfish]

Actually, to be technical, the piece pressed into the hub is in fact called the outer race, or "cup". The "bearing" consists of the outer race (cup) an inner race with the cage & rollers assembly referred to as the "cone". The cone Is A slip fit onto the trailer axle. So, the cup and cone combined is a bearing. Or, to be more precise, in this case, a tapered roller bearing.

Showoff. (But thanks)

 

[JohnD]

I was wondering how you made out with this . . .

Did you ever need to give Damon a call?

When it comes to any kind of trailer axle and brake work . . . he is the cat's meow!

And . . .

Are you guys still in Colorado?

 

[Bones]

Showoff. (But thanks)

Bahaaaaaaa