Update On Titan Disc Brake/Actuator Conversiuon with Ford trucks

[BigGuy82]

After installing the Titan Disc upgrade that I purchased from Performance Trailer Braking, I was doing the normal checkout upon completion. I made sure all of the truck computer settings were correct and the brakes worked fine but I noticed that about every 5 seconds or so, the actuator would make a clicking sound when the brakes were not engaged. I called Ron Russell and it turns out that if you have a late model Ford truck (mine's a '16 - not sure about the '17) this will happen.

Tekonsha makes the Ford controller and apparently there is a bug that results in a test signal being sent down the line but for some reason, the actuator doesn't respond. When this happens, the controller sends another test signal, ad infinitum, even though it should not. Essentially, the controller is writing home to mama but she isn't responding. The solution is simple - there is a geegaw called a "Ford to Chevy Converter" that you wire between the white wire and the blue wire in your junction box (under the pin box). Took all of 30 minutes and the clicking is gone - the brakes are still performing flawlessly.

If you have a Titan kit you have recently purchased (or just the actuator) and you are towing with a late model Ford Super Duty, I suggest you:

1. check your actuator to see if it makes a clicking sound when it is connected to the truck with the truck running but the brake pedal is not depressed
2. if it does, contact Ron Russel to discuss it with him

Also, if you need much more detail than I've provided, I suggest you contact Ron.

 

[jimtoo]

Yep... Chevy taking care of the Fords and helping when needed.

 

[Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn]

I haven't noticed anything​ like this on my 2017 F-350
It's been working perfectly.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

 

[BigGuy82]

Yep... Chevy taking care of the Fords and helping when needed.

Chevy makes trucks ??!?!!

- - - Updated - - -

I haven't noticed anything​ like this on my 2017 F-350
It's been working perfectly.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

My guess is that since Tekonsha knew about the bug, they fixed it for '17. You can't hear the clicking unless you are next to the unit.

 

[LBR]

This has been happening to our Ford with this brand of add on controller for 12 years. Every 5 seconds the passenger rear brake would click on the triple axle cargo trailer. All if my other tandem axle trailers never did it, just the 3 axle. It got unplugged when the trailer was latched up overnight which fixed it!... Lol.

 

[recumbent615]

I have a similar issue with my "new to me" 2014 Chevy 3500. I ordered the Chevy/Ford add on but while waiting for it to arrive next week I installed and old break magnet in the same wiring location and that also works ( and it is free ). But it is much larger than the device that they sell to resolve the issue. so we pay for a compact size and clean look ( no brake magnets hanging off the Pin Box with a Zip tie )

Kevin

 

[RoadJunkie]

Looks like this guy?

 

[porthole]

Did you switch the brake controller over from electric to electric over hydraulic?

Why would this only be a problem with the Titan hydraulic pump and not the Carlisle?

After installing the Titan Disc upgrade that I purchased from Performance Trailer Braking, I was doing the normal checkout upon completion. I made sure all of the truck computer settings were correct and the brakes worked fine but I noticed that about every 5 seconds or so, the actuator would make a clicking sound when the brakes were not engaged. I called Ron Russell and it turns out that if you have a late model Ford truck (mine's a '16 - not sure about the '17) this will happen.

Tekonsha makes the Ford controller and apparently there is a bug that results in a test signal being sent down the line but for some reason, the actuator doesn't respond. When this happens, the controller sends another test signal, ad infinitum, even though it should not. Essentially, the controller is writing home to mama but she isn't responding. The solution is simple - there is a geegaw called a "Ford to Chevy Converter" that you wire between the white wire and the blue wire in your junction box (under the pin box). Took all of 30 minutes and the clicking is gone - the brakes are still performing flawlessly.

If you have a Titan kit you have recently purchased (or just the actuator) and you are towing with a late model Ford Super Duty, I suggest you:

1. check your actuator to see if it makes a clicking sound when it is connected to the truck with the truck running but the brake pedal is not depressed
2. if it does, contact Ron Russel to discuss it with him

Also, if you need much more detail than I've provided, I suggest you contact Ron.

 

[RoadJunkie]

I have the same symptoms and, of course, have put the truck in E over H mode. There are several "home remedies" that will apparently work but the only semi-engineered solution may be the converter. Some of the "home remedies" include adding a resistor in parallel with the signal (blue) wire and ground (white) wire. The value of resistance and power rating is unknown, but some folks have used a spare magnetic brake actuator that seems to work. I chose to go with the commercial unit distributed (made?) by Dexter.

 

[pegmikef]

No problem with my 2013 F350,

 

[BigGuy82]

Did you switch the brake controller over from electric to electric over hydraulic?

Why would this only be a problem with the Titan hydraulic pump and not the Carlisle?

My truck controller is set up correctly. I don't know why it doesn't affect the Carlisle (never heard of that one), but Tekonsha confirmed the issue and they make the controller for Ford. They also recommended the converter and it worked.

- - - Updated - - -

Looks like this guy?

That's the one. As you mentioned on a later post, an old electric brake magnet wired between the blue and white works also.

 

[Toy1Ton]

does anybody know how many amps should read on the meter when the foot pedel is fully pressed on a 2012 ford factory controller?

 

[avvidclif]

My truck controller is set up correctly. I don't know why it doesn't affect the Carlisle (never heard of that one), but Tekonsha confirmed the issue and they make the controller for Ford. They also recommended the converter and it worked.


Then why don't they fix their controller and quit having to "patch" it??????

 

[BigGuy82]

My truck controller is set up correctly. I don't know why it doesn't affect the Carlisle (never heard of that one), but Tekonsha confirmed the issue and they make the controller for Ford. They also recommended the converter and it worked.


Then why don't they fix their controller and quit having to "patch" it??????

You'd have to ask them. Personally, I don't care as long as it works.

 

[porthole]

the Carlisle (never heard of that one),

Carlisle = Hydrastar, before it was called Hydrastar.

 

[BigGuy82]

Carlisle = Hydrastar, before it was called Hydrastar.

Thanks!

 

[Srwdave]

Have you checked the temps of the rotors after a short drive? I just had Titan disc brakes installed on my fifth wheel trailer, I drove the rig approximately 15-miles to the storage lot, and while preforming my hand test on the lug nut portion of the rotor I noticed they ran hotter than the electric drums.

Just currious to to see if you have noticed any change in temperature?

 

[Gary521]

If disk brakes are stopping better than drum brakes - they ARE going to get hotter. Just physics.

 

[Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn]

They will break in soon I had mine hot and smelling on my break-in drive around block.


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[BigGuy82]

They will break in soon I had mine hot and smelling on my break-in drive around block.


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I had one of Ron Russell's lead installers tell me to purposely burn in the new brakes to get any grease and Dacromet coating off of the rotors. He suggested doing this on an empty road by partially applying the trailer brakes only for 10 seconds or so and doing this 3 or 4 times.

Also, I'd expect more heat from discs - the energy from motion is converted to heat by brake systems. Since discs are stopping the same load faster, it means they are converting energy in a shorter period of time, meaning more heat. I suspect the total heat generated by discs is the same as drums but the time interval for conversion is shorter, resulting in a faster stop and initially hotter hubs.

Or some other scientific nonsense that I've probably gotten wrong in my head ...