Washer connection box install-thoughts?

[n3zmw]

Unconventional set up 2019 M-33. We just bought a small washer and separate dryer so we can be more self sufficient, and avoid trips to the laundromat. I don't have any permanent connections for the washer so I plan on installing a connection box. Here are my options, both at the same end of the cabinet, just slightly different locations:

1. Install a small box with drain and water supply valves where the current LED rocker switch is. Will have to tie in existing drain pipe from the kitchen sink using standpipe and p-trap (is p-trap necessary?) Will tie water supply in to cold, and possibly hot water lines that run up to the kitchen faucet. It will be right next to the power outlet on the end of the island, is there a spacing requirement for safety?

2. Remove vent valve and install washer drain at the location of vent. Will have to move the electrical outlet to another location on the end of the island.

A standard washer outlet box will take up nearly all the space horizontally from the outlet to the opposite end where the rocker switch currently resides, that switch will get moved regardless. For smaller space I am contemplating using a "hidden" vent outlet box and installing a water valve (or two) into the box for water supply.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Studor-Air-Admittance-Valve-Recess-Box-with-Faceplate/1000679311


Thoughts and opinions welcome.

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[carl.swoyer]

Remove vent valve and install washer drain at the location of vent. Will have to move the electrical outlet to another location on the end of the island.


On your thought about removing the tank vent. It's a good place to tap in but you still need the vent installed as it keeps the smells out of your camper. Cut the pipe and install a union with a short stack facing up. From there you can cap the washer drain with a fitting that would allow your water hose to screw on. Reinstall the tail piece with the vent still on.



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[n3zmw]

I have started my washer supply box project. I decided to install a separate drain stand pipe and tie in to the kitchen sink drain.

I did not use a standard washer supply outlet box, I instead opted to do things differently. I found a "hide-a-vent" box that was much smaller and will fill the purpose. It just so happens that it is the same size as the 1-1/2" drain pipe that is already under the island.

I measured the box and marked off the area that I needed to cut out on the end of the cabinet. I ended up using a utility knife to score through the plywood, it was only 1/8" thick.

The vent box had no hole to pass a water valve through so I had to cut one in the side. I used a standard 1/4 turn washer supply valve and a sharkbite press fit 90* fitting, which I will tie in to the cold water supply line under the island.

To hold the box in place I had to cut some spacers for the offset ears since the plywood is thinner than drywall.

I also marked off the location on the drain pipe where I will tie in with a tee.

That's as far as I've gotten between work, family time, chores, and this project. My next goal is to complete the drain line, then I can figure out how to route the water supply line and connect it, installing 1/4 turn ball valves for both the kitchen faucet and washer supply. Stay tuned for the next update...

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[donr827]

Looks good so far. Keep posting the pictures.

 

[Flick]

Will your setup be tied in to the kitchen plumbing where you’ll have room to put in another p trap? Washers, depending on what you bought, put out a good amount of water volume on the pump out cycle. If you’re washing clothes and draining the sink and are using the same p trap, it could overload. If you put in another p trap, be sure the vent is tied in line before the p trap. Just some thoughts.

 

[carl.swoyer]

Will your setup be tied in to the kitchen plumbing where you’ll have room to put in another p trap? Washers, depending on what you bought, put out a good amount of water volume on the pump out cycle. If you’re washing clothes and draining the sink and are using the same p trap, it could overload. If you put in another p trap, be sure the vent is tied in line before the p trap. Just some thoughts.

Splash. Lol
That could be a real day ruiner



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[GK2018]

That's looking really good so far! When we had our M33 I thought about doing exactly the same thing your doing and in exactly the same place, although I never got around to it but it sure would've made things easier! I'll be curious to see your end result so I can try to imagine if mine would've came out as nice as yours

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[n3zmw]

Will your setup be tied in to the kitchen plumbing where you’ll have room to put in another p trap? Washers, depending on what you bought, put out a good amount of water volume on the pump out cycle. If you’re washing clothes and draining the sink and are using the same p trap, it could overload. If you put in another p trap, be sure the vent is tied in line before the p trap. Just some thoughts.

I will be tying in where the blue tape marks are on the drain line. It is post kitchen sink p-trap so will have it's own p-trap. Do I need another vent for the washer drain or will the one already installed suffice? (See top of existing drain downpipe)

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[Flick]

I will be tying in where the blue tape marks are on the drain line. It is post kitchen sink p-trap so will have it's own p-trap. Do I need another vent for the washer drain or will the one already installed suffice? (See top of existing drain downpipe)

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No, you can vent multiple locations with one vent. The vent you have in your picture is in the correct location. The vents are there to even out the atmospheric pressures so the liquid in your trap is not drawn out. Looks like your on track.

 

[n3zmw]

Got it finished up today. The fnpt fitting that connects to the water supply valve gave me grief. I used pipe dope but it leaked, so I switched to teflon tape, still leaking but just a drip every 20 min or so. I'll be looking for a 1/2" PEX washer supply valve to replace this one. While I was in here I added shut off valves to the sink supply lines. I'll add another to the washer supply line eventually.

Now to hook up the washer and see how it works and check the p-trap for leaks...

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[jbeletti]

Got it finished up today. The fnpt fitting that connects to the water supply valve gave me grief. I used pipe dope but it leaked, so I switched to teflon tape, still leaking but just a drip every 20 min or so. I'll be looking for a 1/2" PEX washer supply valve to replace this one.

Not sure which fitting you are saying has as drip, but if it's this type:


There is a rubber washer inside that needs to be in place. Often times they fall out and go unnoticed. If this isn't your leaker connector - sorry, it was just my guess.

 

[n3zmw]

Not sure which fitting you are saying has as drip, but if it's this type:
View attachment 63984

There is a rubber washer inside that needs to be in place. Often times they fall out and go unnoticed. If this isn't your leaker connector - sorry, it was just my guess.

Thank you for the insight. Not the leak source but I was unaware of the rubber washer so I learned still, thank you! The leak is an ever so slight drip from the 90* push on sharkbite at the top. It is leaking from the threaded segment where it connects to the supply valve for the washer itself. I will be changing out with a valve that has a segment for pex crimp to eliminate the threaded surface leak.

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[n3zmw]

I finished it all up. I ended up using connection with pex clamps so I didn't have to worry about threaded fittings.

My wife is happy to have a fully functional washer. Now to find a permanent location for the dryer...

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