We are in Omaha, NE. We have a 2012 Big Country 3690SL. The temps stay below 20 and often times falls to single digits. We have an electric heater in the basement next to the water pump and a water holding tank (not sure if its the fresh, black, or gray #1 tank). We also have a thermostate in the basement, the temps never get below 50. About 3 weeks ago, we ran out of water and cant get running water since. I tried to fill the tank, but couldnt get a reading on the tank level after about 10 mintues. I disconnected the hoses and noticed water draining/dripping from the rear of the RV. I also have a single line extending through the bottom of the basement that says fresh water drain, it is near the rear of the RV. Is this where our fresh water tank is? I placed the heater near the water pump because I thought the fresh tank was at the front of the RV. Also, do we need to insulate this single pipe that extends through the basement? We were fine the first 2 months of freezing temps, but now we cant seem to get water running.
Water during freezing temps
- Thread starter lisntodd
- Start date
The fresh water tank is most likely above the rear axle. The drain you mention is in the tank to pump feed line. The drain is where you are frozen. It freezes in the drain and up into the feed line. I pushed my drain up into the skin, held it there with tape and sprayed expanding foam in around it and let I set. The foam hold the line off of the skin an in warmer areas.
danemayer
Well-known member
Hi lisntodd,
The fresh tank is typically near the axles and the fresh water drain is likely close to the front of the tank. One thing that commonly happens is that the water in the exposed drain hose (above the valve) freezes because it's exposed to outside air. The ice wicks up that hose into where it tees into the feed line from tank to pump. That's often the first thing to freeze and until you thaw the tee, you won't know if anything else is frozen.
If you've had prolonged weather below 20F and in the single digits, you may have frozen the water in the fresh tank. Unfortunately, the draining at the rear of the RV might indicate freeze damage to the tank. You probably won't know for sure what's going on until it's warm enough for any ice to melt.
One thing you might try is to get 4x8' foam board insulation from Home Depot or Lowes. Cut it to fit under the trailer and build an enclosure using duct tape. Cut an access door, hinged with tape, and place the electric heater inside the enclosure, sitting on a board so running water doesn't get it wet. The temperature around the tanks will rise dramatically and everything may start working again. Of course, if the tank is damaged, you'll have a lot of water leak into the underbelly. You might need to carefully drill a few 1/4" holes in the coroplast around the axles so water can drain. Take care not to drill through whatever is above the coroplast. Put tape on the drill bit 3/8" from the tip so you know when to stop.
We have a couple of owner-written user guides you might find helpful. Here's a link to the Water Systems Guide and Water Systems Winter Usage Guide.
Btw, the "Comfort Tested to 0 Degrees" statement from Heartland means that the inside of the coach can be kept at a comfortable temperature down to 0 degrees. It's not a statement about the water systems working at that temperature. Extra things are needed, like the Yeti Package and sometimes more.
The fresh tank is typically near the axles and the fresh water drain is likely close to the front of the tank. One thing that commonly happens is that the water in the exposed drain hose (above the valve) freezes because it's exposed to outside air. The ice wicks up that hose into where it tees into the feed line from tank to pump. That's often the first thing to freeze and until you thaw the tee, you won't know if anything else is frozen.
If you've had prolonged weather below 20F and in the single digits, you may have frozen the water in the fresh tank. Unfortunately, the draining at the rear of the RV might indicate freeze damage to the tank. You probably won't know for sure what's going on until it's warm enough for any ice to melt.
One thing you might try is to get 4x8' foam board insulation from Home Depot or Lowes. Cut it to fit under the trailer and build an enclosure using duct tape. Cut an access door, hinged with tape, and place the electric heater inside the enclosure, sitting on a board so running water doesn't get it wet. The temperature around the tanks will rise dramatically and everything may start working again. Of course, if the tank is damaged, you'll have a lot of water leak into the underbelly. You might need to carefully drill a few 1/4" holes in the coroplast around the axles so water can drain. Take care not to drill through whatever is above the coroplast. Put tape on the drill bit 3/8" from the tip so you know when to stop.
We have a couple of owner-written user guides you might find helpful. Here's a link to the Water Systems Guide and Water Systems Winter Usage Guide.
Btw, the "Comfort Tested to 0 Degrees" statement from Heartland means that the inside of the coach can be kept at a comfortable temperature down to 0 degrees. It's not a statement about the water systems working at that temperature. Extra things are needed, like the Yeti Package and sometimes more.
Thanks for the replies. Everything is thawed out. I went outside last night and noticed a big puddle of water under the RV where the fresh tank is located. Not sure what that is about...So I opened the fresh tank drain valve and water flows out, then I go and turn the faucets on inside, nothing. I try the outside shower, nothing. The water pump is running (I can hear it humming). When our sensor showed we were low on water last time, I turned the hot water heater off, because I didn't want there to be no water in it and it still be running. Do you think it froze/damaged it? Not sure if that would cause us not to have any water though.
danemayer
Well-known member
If you turned the water heater off without draining it, and it was 0F overnight, you might have damaged the tank and/or fittings.
If you don't have any city water coming in, and the pump is pumping water from the fresh tank, the water heater will stay full and needs to be heated to keep from freezing.
If you don't have any city water coming in, and the pump is pumping water from the fresh tank, the water heater will stay full and needs to be heated to keep from freezing.
Your last several entries sound like you still have no water pressure, with the pump running (not pressuring up and shutting off). I've noticed that when we are low on water in the fresh water tank (FWT); when the tank finally runs below the feed level to the discharge hose going to the pump, the running pump sounds a little different than normal, we lose water pressure and pump doesn’t shut off (pump is cavitating, running at a little higher speed and will not shut off because of low water supply to the pump).
Regarding your water heater, hard to say, but if you are keeping your lower area heated, your water heater assembly is very close to the pump area and should have remained above freezing. You are the only person that can determine that though. Our water heater is close enough to the pump, our H/W tank would have been okay. I believe you suggested the area by your water pump was around 50°F. Is your water heater in a close proximity (within about 12”) of the pump? Is the H/W tank area staying warm enough around it? You might lay a thermometer in that area to assist in determining your risk. Seems like the H/W tank is encased in styro, but not certain.
If your pump is running, and you have no house pressure at faucets, you may have water in the FWT, but may have a hole/split/crack in the feed line from the FWT to the pump causing the pump to draw air and not pressuring-up and shutting off. Given the temps you have in your area, my suspicion would be that you have a split/crack in either a PEX fitting or in the PEX line forward to the pump from FWT.
You should probably get prepared for this evening though; just looked at www.weatherspark.com and it suggests Omaha will be +6°F tonight followed by 0ᴼF Sunday night. I wish you well; I know how nasty those midwest winters can get, being a former southern Iowa farm boy, many decades ago,,, gebills
Regarding your water heater, hard to say, but if you are keeping your lower area heated, your water heater assembly is very close to the pump area and should have remained above freezing. You are the only person that can determine that though. Our water heater is close enough to the pump, our H/W tank would have been okay. I believe you suggested the area by your water pump was around 50°F. Is your water heater in a close proximity (within about 12”) of the pump? Is the H/W tank area staying warm enough around it? You might lay a thermometer in that area to assist in determining your risk. Seems like the H/W tank is encased in styro, but not certain.
If your pump is running, and you have no house pressure at faucets, you may have water in the FWT, but may have a hole/split/crack in the feed line from the FWT to the pump causing the pump to draw air and not pressuring-up and shutting off. Given the temps you have in your area, my suspicion would be that you have a split/crack in either a PEX fitting or in the PEX line forward to the pump from FWT.
You should probably get prepared for this evening though; just looked at www.weatherspark.com and it suggests Omaha will be +6°F tonight followed by 0ᴼF Sunday night. I wish you well; I know how nasty those midwest winters can get, being a former southern Iowa farm boy, many decades ago,,, gebills
Since I didn’t finish my thought on my last entry, referencing possible damage to your H/W heater; if your pump is supplying water to the heater and you have no flow from any faucets, then you would have a leak between your pump line to the heater, or from the heater tank itself, or from the line from H/W tank and the faucet. That is doubtful because you indicated your basement has been heated. Additionally, a leak in this area from freeze damage should be visible in the basement or dripping outside, "if your pump is supplying water".
Unless I’m misreading what you are suggesting, it sounds like you don’t have any water coming from the pump. Is this accurate? gebills
Unless I’m misreading what you are suggesting, it sounds like you don’t have any water coming from the pump. Is this accurate? gebills
danemayer
Well-known member
No. You should get water thru the cold line even if the water heater has a problem.
If the pump is not pumping water to ANY faucet, shower or toilet, you most likely either still have ice blocking the fresh water feed line, or there's damage allowing the water to leak out and air to be drawn into the pump instead of water. Water dripping from the underbelly near the axles supports the idea that something is damaged.
If the water heater is damaged, it will leak. After you get the pump working, if it periodically runs with all faucets closed, that usually indicates a leak. Could be the water heater, or something else.
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