I'd try a die on the anode first. The old one looks like it came out easily so the threads in the tank hopefully are in good shape.
Maybe a silly question. Is this the part called for by the Water Heater manufacturer, or perhaps a generic replacement?
Maybe spend another $14 to get a Suburban part. If there's no difference, you'll have an extra for next year.
Took my calipers to the threads - they both read the same
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Ken,
You may need to resort to chasing the threads of the insert in the water heater. There still could be enough lodged crud in the threads to impair threading the new rod in.
Here's the one I carry in my plumbing kit - link
View attachment 58649
If you're coming to Goshen 2019, maybe you'll win a water heater care kit. Won't help you now, but maybe later I put a number of kits together with an electric element, an anode rod, an element wrench, this 3/4" thread tap, a tank cleanout tool anad a wire brush. Nice (and $$) kit.
The taper in the threads on the old rod is seen in the picture. The new one doesn't appear to have any taper.
I soaked my old corroded one in distilled vinegar. It came out looking new. So now I just swap out the rods and resoak.Well folks - I gave up, and finally humbled myself enough to step back into a Camping World (I’m not a fan of the owner’s politics). Long story short, I walked out with a Suburban Anode Rod in my hand which installed quickly and easily into my water heater opening.
Lesson being - perhaps aftermarket products aren’t always the correct item for the job at hand, even when specs seem to line up. . Thanks for everyone’s help and patience for a definite machinist newbie!
Black threads are OEM, brass are after market
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