Water Heater Troubleshooting & Repair Guide

[danemayer]

I've posted an owner written guide to Water Heater Troubleshooting and Repair to the manuals section of the forum. This guide covers diagnosing problems with the electric and propane operation, replacement of the electric heating element and anode rod, routine maintenance, and replacement of the hot water outlet check valve.

Link to the troubleshooting sub-section of the manuals section.

Link to the Water Heater Troubleshooting & Repair Guide.

 

[danemayer]

An updated version of the Water Heater Troubleshooting Guide has been posted to the forum.

Version 1.2 – June 24, 2013


• Page 7: corrected left/right references for 110V and 12V circuits on Thermostat/ECO assembly.


• Page 8: added note about possible use of 12V relay to energize 110V electricity to water heater.


• Page 9: added note about new electric heating element that isn’t damaged if run with no water.


• Page 14: added notes about Heartland use of brass fittings beginning early 2013 and likelihood

that units with 3 separate valves for the hot water bypass probably don’t have a check valve.

 

[Donszarko]

I just have a quick question on replacing the pressure relief valve on my Atwood hot water tank.
The valve recently started leaking a bit and does not want to stop.
Tried releasing the pressure by turning the pressure clip but still a small drip.

I think I will just replace the 3/4" valve.

My question is: Does the valve spin off in a normal counter clockwise rotation when I remove it?

New valves come with thread tape, but should I use pipe sealant as well?

 

[danemayer]

I just have a quick question on replacing the pressure relief valve on my Atwood hot water tank.
The valve recently started leaking a bit and does not want to stop.
Tried releasing the pressure by turning the pressure clip but still a small drip.

I think I will just replace the 3/4" valve.

My question is: Does the valve spin off in a normal counter clockwise rotation when I remove it?

New valves come with thread tape, but should I use pipe sealant as well?

Hi Donszarko,

I'm not familiar with Atwood units, but I would think it'll come out with a normal counter-clockwise rotation. And on threaded plumbing, most of us are just using Teflon tape.

 

[BobTheBuilder]

Re: Water Heater Troubleshooting & Repair Guide is GONE!!

Does anyone know why it was removed? I had not downloaded it but was in the middle of a repair and now it is gone.

 

[danemayer]

Re: Water Heater Troubleshooting & Repair Guide is GONE!!

Does anyone know why it was removed? I had not downloaded it but was in the middle of a repair and now it is gone.

The link to the document in post #1 died because V1 was replaced. V1.3 is current and is in the same folder.

I usually link to the folder now because as documents get updated, the file names are changed and the direct links stop working. I've edited the link.

 

[BobTheBuilder]

Thanks. I tried to go to the Tools tab and it was not there either. However, the link at the bottom of this thread now works.

 

[Tigersden]

Re: Water Heater Troubleshooting & Repair Guide is GONE!!

Does anyone know why it was removed? I had not downloaded it but was in the middle of a repair and now it is gone.

Piggybacking on the "Why Removed?" question. Guide was usefful and informative. I am still trying to figure out why I can only get warm (not hot) water using the electric option. The LP heating option works fine and does provide hot water when selected.

 

[danemayer]

Re: Water Heater Troubleshooting & Repair Guide is GONE!!

Piggybacking on the "Why Removed?" question. Guide was usefful and informative. I am still trying to figure out why I can only get warm (not hot) water using the electric option. The LP heating option works fine and does provide hot water when selected.

The most common cause of lukewarm water is inadvertent mixing of hot and cold water. The primary causes of this are 1) faucets open at the outside shower, 2) water heater bypass valve partially open, 3) check valve on the water heater output being stuck open.

But if you're actually getting normal hot water from the LP operation, on a Suburban water heater, it's more likely the problem is either a buildup of crud or other problem affecting the electric heating element, or a problem with the thermostat for the electric side.

 

[Tigersden]

Re: Water Heater Troubleshooting & Repair Guide is GONE!!

The most common cause of lukewarm water is inadvertent mixing of hot and cold water. The primary causes of this are 1) faucets open at the outside shower, 2) water heater bypass valve partially open, 3) check valve on the water heater output being stuck open.

But if you're actually getting normal hot water from the LP operation, on a Suburban water heater, it's more likely the problem is either a buildup of crud or other problem affecting the electric heating element, or a problem with the thermostat for the electric side.

Thanks for good info. I couldn't locate the check valve on the water heater output so I don't know if it is/is not working properly. Seems like it mst be since the LP mode keeps the water very hot. My rig has an Atwood water heater and I will now attempt to find a replacement thermostat for it. There is a You Tube video that should help me in the actual change out process.

 

[danemayer]

Re: Water Heater Troubleshooting & Repair Guide is GONE!!

Thanks for good info. I couldn't locate the check valve on the water heater output so I don't know if it is/is not working properly. Seems like it mst be since the LP mode keeps the water very hot. My rig has an Atwood water heater and I will now attempt to find a replacement thermostat for it. There is a You Tube video that should help me in the actual change out process.

I think Atwood units have a single thermostat for LP and electric operation. So if it works well on LP, the thermostat is probably ok. But you never know.

If you have a single valve control for the water heater bypass (for winterizing), then the pipe coming out of the top of the water heater should start with a check valve. If you have 3 separate valves inside, you probably don't have a check valve. But with the 3 valve winterizing setup, make sure the crossover valve is closed completely.

 

[BobTheBuilder]

Replaced both the element and the thermostat and have 120V power on the element and both contacts per testing according to the trouble shooting manual. My electric water heater still does not work! What am I missing?

 

[danemayer]

Replaced both the element and the thermostat and have 120V power on the element and both contacts per testing according to the trouble shooting manual. My electric water heater still does not work! What am I missing?

If you're reading 120V AC between the element and frame ground, you might be missing the neutral connection. See page 9 of the troubleshooting guide. There's probably a junction box on the interior front corner of the water heater where the hot and neutral connections are made.

 

[BobTheBuilder]

Duh!! The last time I came in I forgot to switch on the aux. switch. sorry guys! All is well.

 

[wingnut]

No 120 volt anywhere on HWH. Pulled the switch panel and there was the loose wire.
DW is happy now.

Guide was big help.
Thanks

 

[GarryN2016]

Re: Water Heater Troubleshooting & Repair Guide

Hello everyone, I’m having an issue with the hot water heater capacity in our3700 RLB. It seems that a person can’t have a half decent shower without running out of hot water. I’m not talking about a stand in the shower so hot you can barely stand it, I’m talking about having to shut the shower tap off every opportunity you can as to not run out, and if you’re lucky you just might make it! I guess my question is, is this standard for these campers or do I have something wrong with the water heater. I have tried it on both 120 v and propane, both with the same result.our other camper didn’t have this problem and it is very frustrating to have to skimp so much on the hot water.

- - - Updated

 

[danemayer]

Re: Water Heater Troubleshooting & Repair Guide

Hello everyone, I’m having an issue with the hot water heater capacity in our3700 RLB. It seems that a person can’t have a half decent shower without running out of hot water. I’m not talking about a stand in the shower so hot you can barely stand it, I’m talking about having to shut the shower tap off every opportunity you can as to not run out, and if you’re lucky you just might make it! I guess my question is, is this standard for these campers or do I have something wrong with the water heater. I have tried it on both 120 v and propane, both with the same result.our other camper didn’t have this problem and it is very frustrating to have to skimp so much on the hot water.

- - - Updated

There are a couple of factors that affect how long the hot water supply lasts. First is the size of the tank. Some trailers have 6 gallon tanks, others 10 gallons, others 12 gallons. The larger the tank, the longer hot water will last. Another key factor is temperature of the incoming water. In cold climates, the water heater takes longer to recover, and the mix of cold water is colder. Third is the volume of water flow. 5 gallons/minute of water flow will exhaust the supply twice as fast as 2.5 gallons/minute.

A couple of things to try: First, you can get faster recovery time by turning on both 120V AC and propane switches. As the hot water gets used, you'll have the electric element and the gas burner both heating the incoming water. Second, if the incoming water is very cold, you might try filling your fresh tank in the afternoon (assuming morning showers), and then turn off the campground water supply. The water in the fresh tank will warm up a bit as it sits and you won't need as much hot water in the mix. The pump will usually deliver something like 3 gallons/minute, so that may help too.

 

[GarryN2016]

Re: Water Heater Troubleshooting & Repair Guide

There are a couple of factors that affect how long the hot water supply lasts. First is the size of the tank. Some trailers have 6 gallon tanks, others 10 gallons, others 12 gallons. The larger the tank, the longer hot water will last. Another key factor is temperature of the incoming water. In cold climates, the water heater takes longer to recover, and the mix of cold water is colder. Third is the volume of water flow. 5 gallons/minute of water flow will exhaust the supply twice as fast as 2.5 gallons/minute.

A couple of things to try: First, you can get faster recovery time by turning on both 120V AC and propane switches. As the hot water gets used, you'll have the electric element and the gas burner both heating the incoming water. Second, if the incoming water is very cold, you might try filling your fresh tank in the afternoon (assuming morning showers), and then turn off the campground water supply. The water in the fresh tank will warm up a bit as it sits and you won't need as much hot water in the mix. The pump will usually deliver something like 3 gallons/minute, so that may help too.

I am not certain of the capacity of the water heater, but one would think that they would have installed a water heater with enough capacity to service a camper that occupies 8 people. I wasn’t aware that a person could activate both 120v and propane simultaneously but I will definitely give it a try.Thank you very much for the information I will certainly check into it further. I was also considering having a on demand water heater installed to hopefully cure the problem.

 

[OldGuyShredsToo]

Duh!! The last time I came in I forgot to switch on the aux. switch. sorry guys! All is well.

AUX switch?
Where is that?
My '21 dometic quit the other day, only it is lukewarm (98°) on BOTH Electric and LPG. The tank only gets to 112°.

 

[Dahillbilly]

make sure your outside shower is OFF if you have one! Been there done that as thety say