Waterline Blowout using Air Compressor Low-Pressure

[Dale Smith]

I have made up a attachment device for the fresh water inlet with an air compressor fitting on the other end. I have set my air compressor to a low pressure level (25 pounds) and have blown out all of my water lines by opening each faucet one at a time. I have also held open the toilet valve to allow any water to be blown out of there as well. I have gone around to each of the faucets and done this process twice over.
Before I started this process. I bypassed the water heater and pulled the anode rod out, draining the water heater
Is there any method of removing any residue from the bottom of the hot water tank, prior to me installing a new anode rod?


In the middle of November,we are taking the trailer from the cold climate of Ontario, Canada, down to Memphis, Tennessee, where we will stay for a week or two, and then winterize the trailer with antifreeze prior to putting it into storage at this facility, until after Christmas when we will return to the trailer and continue our journey south.

I am trusting that my process of blowing out all the lines will be enough for this time of year, until we do a full winterize at the end of our stay in Tennessee? Is my thought of doing a full winterize in Tennessee overkill for that area?


I am looking for any advice on anything I may have overlooked.

It will be helpful to bounce this off of the forum and get any feedback that would be helpful.

Much appreciated.

 

[Rrloren]

I winterize mine the same way and have done so for many years with no problems and it has gotten down into the single digit temp range here in Jersey. If you have an outside shower make sure you blow that out also.
Put the pink RV antifreeze in all the drains so that the P traps are safe. That's all I do and never had any problems. Also open the low point drains , usually 2 short hoses sticking out under the trailer.
For the hot water tank there is a tool at Campers World which attaches to a water hose that can be inserted into the tank to flush it out. I use a short piece of water hose and just stick it in the tank and turn on the water for a short period.

 

[DougS]

Check with others on ice maker if you have one. i opted no ice maker and live in FL.

 

[boatto5er]

Don't forget your washer connections. Even if you've never used them they probably have water in them. We hold a bucket under the washer connections when we blow them out since there's no (easy to get to) drain there.

 

[navyAZ1]

Also, don't forget the outside shower, a lot of folks forget to check this. I do this same compressed air method when I do winterize but rarely since we live in the coach, but I use 40 psi.

 

[danemayer]

If you have the Ariston Splendide Washing Machine, you can use air to evacuate the hoses, forcing the water into the washing machine drum. Then run the Drain Cycle (Setting C) to drain the drum.

You can also add a little RV antifreeze to the drum in case there's any water left. Just remember to flush it out in the Spring.

 

[57chevyconvt]

As to the residual water left in the HW tank after draining. I see no problem with this small about of water, even if it freezes there is no expansion pressure that will create a problem within the water tank. If you are concerned, you can use a siphon hose or a similiar device that can be purchased at Harbor Freight.

 

[Gaffer]

I would leave the anode out until you de-winterize.

 

[Crumgater]

If you leave the anode out, you might want to plug the hole with gauze or something to keep critters & bugs from taking up residence.

 

[truknutt]

Here's the tool they were discussing. It's distributed by CAMCO so any RV place should be able to get them. CAMCO Water Heater Tank Rinser

Here's the blow out hose used with an air compressor: Blow Out Hose

 

[jbeletti]

Dale,

Nice job - I do the same thing. Don't forget the black tank flush system. There's an anti-siphon valve behind your shower that "may" retain some water. I'd air pressurize it as well.

Jim

 

[porthole]

I use air also, blow out all the lines,and then run the washer with the air connected.
After that I run antifreeze through everything and runt he washer again.
Remaining antifreeze gets dumped in the traps, which should be about full from running it through the lines.

I use the air line adapter Dave pointed out. Works great for just leaving the air supply connected. I set the compressor to 35-40 psi.

 

[SilverRhino]

I made my own "blow out" device from some parts that I had around the shop. Always more fun than buying ready made

 

[Dale Smith]

Thanks to everyone for all the replies thus far!

Looks like I have captured all of the items that everyone has mentioned, including the outdoor shower, the washing machine hookups, and the bypassing of the hot water heater.

As mentioned, I bypass the hot water heater, and then I went and purchased a bottle brush and used a flush of water from the water hose in combination with the bottlebrush inserted in the anode rod outlet. I did remove quite a bit of white powdery material which I presume was the remains of my anode rod. Even though the trailer is only one-year-old, the anode rod was down to a thin stick approximately 1/4 inch to 1/8 of an inch diameter. I have purchased a new anode rod and reinstalled it with Teflon tape on the threaded portion.

The hot water heater will remain in bypass, while the trailer has been winterized.

At approximately the middle of November, we are taking our trailer to the Nashville, Tennessee area where we will stay for a short period of time, and then put the trailer into storage until we come back to get it right after Christmas to continue our travels south.

I will take plumbing antifreeze along with me to Tennessee but I am wondering if I would need to do the full winterizing process in that area of the country? I have all lines blown out, plumbing antifreeze in all of the traps, and the water heater is bypassed.
Perhaps someone from the Tennessee area could let me know their thoughts on whether I would need to fully winterize by filling all the lines with antifreeze? If I don't need to take the large jug of antifreeze with me, it would be all the better.
Thanks for any advice you can give!

 

[Willym]

Dale, many people winterize their rigs by blowing air through the lines as you have done and adding no anti-freeze to them. I have always used the anti-freeze method though and will continue as we have a washing machine ad this seems to be the best way to winterize it. However, I think that as long as you have given all lines a good long purge with air until the taps run "mist free" then you will not have enough water left in the lines to cause a problem. The only area that hasn't been covered above has been the water pump. If you don't use it to pump anti-freeze in, then it needs to be drained somehow. With the FW tank empty, running the pump and opening a tap until air comes out should clear it of water.
Have a good trip down south, and we hope to see you again at the 2012 Ontario rally.

 

[mrcomer]

Well I started my winterization a couple of days ago. I am doing a small modification. We do not have a washer/dryer combo and for many years I would winterize those lines like all the others. This year will be different. I decided to cut off those feeds to the washer and replumb as to not have to winterize those ever again. If later I need to hook them up I will have to re-connect them in the basement but for now, no more need to winterize that portion of the system.

 

[TedS]

I also use compressed air to clear the water lines. I did notice that even though I ran the pump until nothing come out the faucets enough water settled in the pump strainer housing to fill it. In my previous trailer I missed that and the resulting ice cube broke the strainer housing. Now I remove the strainer housing and dump the residual water. Just saying check it. Running the pump dry should purge the pumping chambers so there is not enough water left in the pump to cause freeze damage.

 

[aatauses]

I am somewhat confused---which is better---use air to blow out all lines and leave them open OR use the winterize system and put anti freeze in your lines?
thanks
al

 

[cookie]

Which is better??? Good question. I think it's a matter of what you prefer. Both methods are good if done correctly. Personally I use the anti-freeze.

Peace
Dave

 

[lwmcguir]

I agree that the antifreeze method is better. Don't have to drain all the traps which can easily be forgotten. Also gives you a bit of protection in the tanks if you leave the valves shut as some do.