Welcome back light timing

jmgratz

Original Owners Club Member
Just wondering if there is a way to change the timing on the 'welcome back light'. Seems like we no longer get in the door and the light goes off before we can open the cabinet to find the light switch. Is there a way to get the light to stay on longer other than leaving the door open (cause that lets bugs in.)?
 

cookie

Administrator
Staff member
Jim, I noticed that after I switched over to the LED lighting the welcome home light turned off much quicker.
So I plan to add a small incandescent light in that circuit.
That should slow it down again.

Peace
Dave
 

Gizzy

Well-known member
Not sure of your layout, but before we took delivery, we had the dealer move the light switches to the outside of the cabinet so we would not have to open/close the cabinet every time we needed to switch the light on/off. They are now right in front of us when we enter the coach. Very handy. I know this doesn't answer your timing question, but if the switch is readily available, maybe the timing would not be a problem, it is not a problem for us. Just a suggestion.
 

jmgratz

Original Owners Club Member
I guess this may be an issue to Heartland engineering department. If they would have used the product maybe they would have put the switches in an easier accessible location.
 

brianharrison

Well-known member
Jim,

The timer on my welcome back light is controlled by a fancy capacitor electronic module called a "3 minute high side driver" KIB makes the product - I guess the 3 minutes means while the circuit is activated (ie door open).

I found mine behind my fire extinguisher where the door wiring was located. Here is what mine looks like.
 

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jmgratz

Original Owners Club Member
I know ours sure doesn't stay on for 3 minutes. I finally figured out we can come in and turn on the light switch by the dining table before the welcome back light goes off. The other thing I don't like about the location of the light switches it they are right by the electric switch for the water heater and other things. I just think they could be located where 1. they are more easily accessable and 2. away from switches that can accidently be turned on when you are trying to turn on the lights.
 

SGMilkman

Member
Not sure of your layout, but before we took delivery, we had the dealer move the light switches to the outside of the cabinet so we would not have to open/close the cabinet every time we needed to switch the light on/off. They are now right in front of us when we enter the coach. Very handy. I know this doesn't answer your timing question, but if the switch is readily available, maybe the timing would not be a problem, it is not a problem for us. Just a suggestion.

When you say you had them move the switches, how did they do this? Did they replace/add three way switches to an additional location, or did they remove the existing switches and relocate them. If they relocated them, what did they do with the openings where the old swiches were. Can you send a picture?
 

cookie

Administrator
Staff member
SGMilkman, if there are no pics posted I will post one of my mod when I get home.
I did not physically move the switches, I just added two more to the outside of the cabinet.
I used the larger paddle switch like those found in some slides.

Peace
Dave
 

SGMilkman

Member
Thanks, that's what I was thinking of doing. Rather than 3 way switches, I was just going to add switches to the wall outside the cabinet. The original switches inside the cabinet would need to be on for the added switches to work, but I don't mind that. Is that how yours are configured?
 

cookie

Administrator
Staff member
No, the switches inside the cabinet do not have to be on.
I added wire while changing the spade connectors at the original switches.
Now either switch will control the lights.
I will be home tomorrow and will post a picture of the switch connections.

Peace
Dave
 

cookie

Administrator
Staff member
SGMilkman, here are some pics as promised.
As you can see on the back of the in cabinet switches, there are some spliced wires.
The original switches had a 12 volt wire to each and another wire, that when the switch turned on, provided the 12 volts to the lights.
So locate the 12 volt hot wire, splice into it and send that 12 volt hot wire to the new switches.
Then, after turning on a light switch, determine the wire that becomes hot when the switch is turned on.
Do that for both the kitchen and living room light.
Splice into each of those separately and send each of them to the new switches as well.
I hope I was clear in my instructions. If not, let me know.

Peace
Dave
 

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