What spare parts to carry while traveling

[farupp]

Hi: we are new to travel trailers but not new to tow vehicles, traveling and/or camping. I also have extensive mechanical experience with vehicles. We just purchased a 2018 Heartland North Trails 24BH which we will tow with a 2015 Ford F-150 with the 3.5 litre twin turbo engine (Ecoboost), and the heavy duty two package, including the integrated trailer brake controller. I apologize if this isn't the right place to post this but I couldn't find where else to ask the question.

My question: What spare parts should I plan on carrying? I asked the dealer from whom I bought the trailer about spare parts and their answer was to buy their "mechanical protection package." Not what I was looking for. We will be traveling for six months starting in the spring, headed west for Charleston, SC to the west coast to New England and back to Charleston.

So, what spares should I carry?

Thank you.
Frank Rupp

 

[jimtoo]

Hi farupp,

Welcome to the Heartland Owners Forum and to the family. We have a great bunch of folks here with lots of information and all willing to share their knowledge when needed.

Be sure and join our Heartland Owners Club. Then join us at a rally when you can meet lots of the great folks here and make friends for a lifetime.

Enjoy the forum.
Jim M

 

[danemayer]

You might consider:

a PEX kit with a 3' piece of 1/2" PEX tubing, crimp rings, crimp tool, straight and 90 degree connectors, and 1 or 2 90 degree swivel fittings that attach to the water heater or other fittings. A cutoff valve isn't a spare part, but if you have to work on plumbing, it can be awfully handy to have 1 or 2.

An electrical repair kit including a selection of spare fuses from 5 amp to 30 amp, butt splices of various sizes, and a crimp tool.

Find a #2 square bit driver. A lot of the screws in your RV are #2 square.

If your North Trail has any incandescent bulbs, rather than LEDs, you might carry some spares.

 

[sengli]

Spot on, definitely carry some PEX fittings, and pieces of tubing and the tool for the fittings. I also catty a bag of misc screws too, mostly ones/ types I have found in the RV leftover when new.

 

[davebennington]

The previous post were spot on pex lines and fittings are a good thing to carry. In addition if you are going to the National Rally in Goshen, do stop by RV surplus in Elkhart and buy an assortment of screws they are sold by the pound. Grab a hand full out of each bin it will be able to help you to resolve any of the screw/bolt problem that you may need for your RV. Stop by Camping World (I hate sending anyone there) and by a couple of tubes of caulk and dicor as well as silcone.

If you don't have a compressor buy one you will need it sooner or later. It is always nice to have a battery charger also just in case.

dave

 

[JohnDar]

A VOM, gas detector and a non-contact current detector are good to have. A twist on sewer valve and a clear backflush adapter for the sewer outlet are other items you may want to have.


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[RAHanock]

Water pump. Have had to replace ours 3 times in 9 years.

 

[NWILSON]

In addition to what the others have said, I carry a spare water heater element.

 

[JohnDar]

Unless you’re going out to the hinterlands, a credit card and reliable cell phone are probably your best “tools.” With one you can locate the nearest mobile tech, RV parts store, home center, or hardware store. With the other, you can pay for it.


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[farupp]

Thanks to all for your suggestions and recommendations. Many items are already on my list but not all, especially the air compressor. Is it to blow up flat tires or blow out water lines and dust from hidden places: i.e. what size air compressor? What size and spec is the water heater element?

Please keep the suggestions coming.

Frank

 

[JohnDar]

An air compressor should exceed the cold temp pressure on your tires, yet be adjustable down to about 40 psi if you want to winterize with it. That said, a 120V compressor is what you need, with at least a 3 gallon tank. A small air nailer compressor works fine. For just the tires, a 150 psi, 12V Viair compressor works. I seem to recall the water heater element being 1300 watts (maybe 1500). You’ll need a special tool sized for the nut to remove it, made just for that purpose. Should be available wherever the elements are sold and usually inexpensive.


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[Gary521]

Make sure to get a large breaker bar and the correct size socket for the lug nuts. Those buggers are on there tight. A whimpy lug wrench will not get the job done.

 

[MTPockets]

Make sure to get a large breaker bar and the correct size socket for the lug nuts. Those buggers are on there tight. A whimpy lug wrench will not get the job done.

Or, a long handle torque wrench.

 

[Lou_and_Bette]

Or, a long handle torque wrench.

Or, an 18 volt (or higher) impact driver and a good torque wrench

 

[farupp]

and my list grows. Thank you all for the input.

Frankj

 

[JWalker]

Bit the bullet and picked up one of these. An awesome little unit. Love the portability.

https://www.viaircorp.com/portables/450p-auto

 

[eddylives]

Some shark bite plumbing fittings to go with the pipe
I had to use them to re build a hot water bypass one spring.....turned one valve and it broke in my fingers due to the cheap plastic fittings they used lol

 

[TomSt]

I carry a full wheel bearing and race set for one wheel and the minimal tools to replace it. Even if you cannot do that work having the bearing set can cut down on repair times.

 

[Lou_and_Bette]

I carry a full wheel bearing and race set for one wheel and the minimal tools to replace it. Even if you cannot do that work having the bearing set can cut down on repair times.

I do this also, read stories about roadside assistance taking hours longer to repair waiting for the service tech to go and find the correct parts to do the repair.

 

[NYSUPstater]

Bit the bullet and picked up one of these. An awesome little unit. Love the portability.

https://www.viaircorp.com/portables/450p-auto

Times 2!! FWIW, I also bring along 18v cordless drill (already mentioned) as well as a 1/2" cordless impact wrench for the lug nuts (got mine from Harbor Freight) and lastly, a torque wrench from Lowes that goes above 150# (that is if you have alum rims and have to TQ to 140-160 or so). Seeing OP has a TT, the 18v cordless drill can be used to lower/raise the rear stabilizers too.