Wheel Bearing Maintenance

[57chevyconvt]

TeJay and icechex, The last time I repacked my wheel bearing I used Red Line CV-2 (synthetic RedMoly -NGL1 No. 2) wheel bearing grease rather than the Kendall L-427 that is recommended by Lippert. I really really like the Red Line grease that was recommended by a HL forum buddy in Colorado who uses the Red Line grease in his race car front wheel bearing that sees excessive heat. I have used and specified lubricants for many years for rotating equipment in the Chemical Processing Industry and the Red Line grease from all that I have read and heard from others is that it is a far superior wheel bearing grease. I couldn't find it locally but was able to purchase it from Amazon.com. For the grease seals, I use a CR or Dichtomatic #442109 double lip seal. I stay away from the China made seals because of the poor quality of elastomers that are typical of China. A bad grease seal adds road dust and moisture into the hub and bearing which will lead to premature bearing failure. If I were in the Houston area, I would take my RV to Master Hitch, Inc. (713) 974-4440 for the repack job. I only buy RV parts and supplies from PPL, but surely not for service. If you were to follow TeJay's check list of questions of the mechanic, you would quickly understand my note about PPL for service. As to replacement wheel bearings, stay away from the China made bearing. I use the Koyo Bearings or any name brand Japanese made bearing due to quality of steel and dimensional tolerances.

 

[mobilcastle]

Tejay,
Are you saying you leave the old grease in the bearing after just cleaning the grease off the outside of the bearing? I have always sprayed my bearings out with carb cleaner as it cuts the grease inside and dries quickly. I have never noticed that it cut the grease after packing nor have I ever had a failure-maybe I am adding a step I do not need to? I am sure you are much more experienced in this area than I am. Thanks for your info here.

icechex,
If you have to have somebody perform the service here's what I'd do. I would expect that they remove all wheels and bearings. Hand pack and no grease guns. When the technician removes the bearings do not allow them to wash the bearings with solvent for two very important reasons. A good tech will examine the grease that is present in each bearing. Wipe the grease off some and examine the grease in the rag. If there are any little sparkles in the grease the bearings are bad. THEY MUST BE REPLACED. Secondly using solvent can be bad if all of it is not removed. The solvent will compromise the new grease. Insist on using synthetic grease and hand pack the bearings. Provide it if they won't. That stuff is 10 X's better. Next line the inside of the hub with about a 1/4" layer of grease. The only reason is to provide a moisture barrier. Filling the hub with grease acts as a heat dam which prevents heat loss from the bearings and brakes. Besides the fact that the grease will be exactly where you put it in 2,3,5,or 10 years. It does not flow so why put it there.

Of course new grease seals. Adjusting the bearing clearance is very critical. Here's what I taught and always did. The job is complete and all that is remaining is bearing adjustment. Place the hub nut on and tighten by hand. Now using a 1/2" drive ratchet tighten the nut an additional 1/8 to a 1/4 of a turn or until the ratchet gets a little hard to turn. What you are doing is assuring that all races (if bearings were bad then new bearings and races will be installed) are properly seated against a shoulder in the hub. If for some reason they were not seated over tightening the hub nut will make sure. Now back the nut off about 1/4 of a turn. Now with your fingers tighten the hub nut while wiggling the tire and feel for the wobble. When the wobble just goes away you are set at between .001 to .003 bearing clearance. Place new cotter pins into axle and replace dust cover. If you have the style of axle nut that makes you loosen or tighten the hub nut so the cotter pin will line up with the hole in the axle always loosen and never tighten. I believe most systems have gone to a better design locking system. So where you set the hub nut is where it should stay for proper clearance. I learned that procedure from a Hunter alignment guy who worked at the Indy track on the Indy cars. If it's good enough for those guys then it's good enough for me.

If you have any other questions you can PM me and I'll give you my phone number. Actually if you have a few tools and can do any of this stuff I'd attempt it. I can talk you through some areas if you are confused or hesitant. I'm not real sure about the hub temps. Probably not much over 200 degrees on a hot day. Those bearings should stay fairly cool.

Happy motoring.

I just noticed that you are over in OK. Heck I'm about 100 miles from Tulsa here in NW AR. Bring your camper over and we can do your unit in my drive.

TeJay

 

[icechex]

TeJay


Thanks for the prompt reply. My reply to you has been delayed somewhat because we are on our way back home from spending the summer in Wisconsin, and are presently in Memphis Tn. (Heading for my wife’s parents house in DeKalb, Tx which is about 35 miles from Texarkana, Tx/Ark).


Although we are from Oklahoma, and have kids/grandkids living there, “home” is, and has been since 2010 - where ever we happen to be.


We will be in DeKalb for a couple of weeks (resting/visiting) before we leave on the 14th of September for Vegas.


As for the information on wheel bearings. First, I appreciate your input/time on this issue, for it has been very beneficial to me (and others who read what you have to say), and it is a relief to now have a plan of action concerning the bearings.


I’m inclined to take you up on your offer (to change the bearings in your driveway) which is a mighty generous offering from you to a complete stranger (me) and I’m very appreciative to you - for the offer.


That being said, I’m wondering if the logistics of this could be worked out in a satisfactory manner for both of us.


First, I would insist on paying you for your time.


Second, since I would want to replace the bearings (regardless of the need) since I’m not enamored by what the manufacturers install on these rigs, I’m wondering what it would take, i.e., would I have to ‘order’ the bearings or could I buy them locally.


Next question - I would want to also inspect the brakes for wear and tear, and if they needed them I would want to replace, repair, or whatever it took to make them safe.


Can that (also) be done in your driveway?


Third - assuming we could get past the above, what kind of ‘time’ are we talking about? (I would want to be completed in a day, maybe 2 at the longest)


Fourth - (this probably should of been the First one, lol)

• how far away are you from Texarkana?? -

While I have no problem with a short drive pulling the RV, and buying the ‘gold diesel’ for my truck - (for the “educational value” and “secure feeling of a job professionally done” will be worth a lot), it must be balanced with what is practical and makes common sense.


I will await your response, but I’m thinking that we could leave a couple of days early, drive a ways ‘out of our way,’ to where you live, complete the task, visit with you, “pay you” for your time - and head on out to Houston.


However, it all has to work with your schedule, and ours, and the cost has to be practical.


As to making sure that PPL (Houston) does the bearing/brake job according to Hoyle, I don’t think it would work - as my experience with professionals is that they don’t want to be told how to do their job. So, my only hope, if I end up letting PPL do the job will be to ask them to use the appropriate grease. As for the procedure that they do the work, I’m betting they will tell me to ‘take a hike,’ lol.


Let me know your thoughts - and “Thanks again” for your advice.


DeWayne

 

[icechex]

Jim - thanks for some very informative info. It is appreciated.

 

[icechex]

Jim

"Master Hitch, Inc." -. I'm assuming you've had them do work for you before? If I cannot take advantage of TeJay's generous offer - I will check them out. I've heard some 'less than nice' remarks about PPL's service, but, that's true of almost every service organization. In the past when I've been 'unsure' - I've always tried to stay with the bigger service departments, unless, someone else has 'personal' knowledge of another place.

Thanks for the tip and your comment.

 

[Ray LeTourneau]

I recently replaced as needed or repacked the bearings on our Bighorn. After inspecting the grease and bearing and race surfaces, I wiped away what I could then used Brakleen to remove any remaining grease. After installing the new self adjusting brakes, the temps I recorded after burnishing in the new brakes were 175 on the fronts and 145 on the rears. The brakes were pretty stinky too.
On our recent trip to the WI rally, I really noticed a difference in the stopping power. I was able to back off on the Prodigy settings quite a bit. I haven't checked the hub temps since the break in though.

 

[icechex]

Jim

Appreciate the reply and info, but I think you missed my question about Master Hitch. Did you have some work done by them? I'm assuming you did because you are recomending them, but, I just want to be sure. You said in an earlier comment that if you were in Houston you would let them do the work.

As for temps - I checked my hub temps on the way back from Wisconsin (1100 miles) and they consistently ran in the 130-140 degree range (outside ambient near 100 degrees) which I think is not so bad, although I doubt if 'temp' alone is a suffienct indicator of bearing condition. However, I already have the 'self-adjusting' brakes and since my hub temps are running so good, and I only have 8000 miles on the new trailer, I'm now wondering if I might leave things as they are for a few thousand more miles. Heck, maybe this trailer was built on Wednesdays/Thursdays? lol.

Seriously, we've had it 17 months and have had ZERO problems with it, with the exception of one water leak which was fixed at the dealership. I'm going to ask TeJay what he thinks (about letting the bearing/brake check go for a little longer).

Thanks for your input

 

[jayc]

I agree with Jim about Master Hitch in Houston. They have been selling me hitches and performed many other services for me over the years. Highly recommended and reliable company.

 

[57chevyconvt]

icechex, Jay thanks for relaying your response about your experience with Master Hitch in Houston. Master Hitch has not preformed any actual work on my RV since I do all the mechanical work myself but I have met the folks at Master Hitch and purchased brakes and other items from them. I have discussed the method of repacking wheel bearing and the level of training that they require for their employees that would actually do the work. Base on the face to face discussions and service that I have received from their parts department, I would not have second thoughts about using these folks to work on my RV. Have had first hand experience with the other folks in question and you know my feeling about them. Sorry for the late response, was away over the weekend and no computer access.

 

[jayc]

Jim, not to hijack this very important thread about maintenance, it's been a long time since you've been to one of the Texas rallies and we'd love to see you in Canton again or Beaumont, or better yet, both of them!

 

[TeJay]

mobilecastle,
I guess the reason I don't recommend using a solvent is from teaching kids. For every 20 in a class that would use a solvent and clean it correctly there's always 2-4 that would get sloppy and that might compromised the new lube. When I wipe the bearings I am very careful to wipe them as well as I can. When the new lube is hand packed it always moves some old grease through and out the other side. I remove that stuff and always smear some good lube around the tapered rollers as well. I'm sure your method works just fine. I was always careful to point out areas where mistakes could and do happen which might compromise a good service procedure.

TeJay

 

[57chevyconvt]

Jay, Glad you asked! If plans go as planned, we will see you folks in Canton next month. Looking forward to meeting new and old friends once again.

 

[57chevyconvt]

TeJay, If I solvent clean a bearing I allow it to air dry rather than use an air hose for solvent removal. Pressurized air drying can lead to spinning one or more of the rolling elements on extremely dry non-lubricated surfaces and result in bearing damage. I then put a little light weight machine oil on the bearing and proceed to rotate the bearing to inspect the rollers with my magnification hood. Not that this is the ultimate inspection test but a good eye ball inspection is better than none at all. It pays to inspect new bearing in this fashion because a damaged bearing cage can prevent a rolling element from rolling and therefore sliding on the race inner/outer which will lead to premature bearing failure. These are points of shared knowledge both from the school hard knots and technical training.