Wheel Bearings

[JeremyN]

I have a 2011 28BRS and I am about to go and get it from storage here in a month or so. I want to make sure I have the wheel bearings properly greased up and ready for this season, as I am planning on taking some longer trips this year. Last year we basically pulled no more than 25 miles from home each time we went, so I didn't put more than 300 or so miles on the trailer. I have never greased up these bearings though, so I would like a little advise on how to properly do this.

I contacted my dealer and they wanted to charge me about $200 to do this. I figured I could do it myself much cheaper. Am I wrong in thinking that? Is this going to be too much of a hassle for me to do in my driveway?

Thanks in advance.

 

[cookie]

It depends on your comfort level in doing the job. It is not hard, but you will need a little knowledge on repacking and seating the bearings when tightening the castle nut as you put it all back together.
Be sure to buy new seals.
This is also a good time to inspect your brakes.
I have always done mine in the driveway.

Peace
Dave

 

[SJH]

Here are a couple of recent threads with good information! I think I will try it myself too this season!

Thread 1

Thread 2

Best Wishes and Good Luck!

 

[jnbhobe]

Again what " cookie " said, Its not hard at all. If you don't mind getting greasy over and over. Just do it by hand not the zerk fitting way.

 

[JohnDar]

$200 for all four wheels along with a brake inspection, is about what my dealer charges. All depends on whether you've got the place and time to do it and some experience with it. I answer no to all three and think it's worth it to let them do it. I usually have them PM the refrigerator while they've got it, along with any other items I need taken care of.

 

[Ray LeTourneau]

If you're not comfortable or don't have the tools/equipment or location, $200 isn't a bad price. Make sure they use quality seals. Chicago Rawhide is the preferred seal.

 

[JeremyN]

$200 for all four wheels along with a brake inspection, is about what my dealer charges. All depends on whether you've got the place and time to do it and some experience with it. I answer no to all three and think it's worth it to let them do it. I usually have them PM the refrigerator while they've got it, along with any other items I need taken care of.

What do they all do when they PM the refrigerator?

 

[JohnDar]

What do they all do when they PM the refrigerator?

Inspection, cleaning, and full systems diagnostics check. On the back of the manual, in the warranty fine print, they say to keep it valid requires having it inspected by a qualified facility annually. Seems to be worth it since the fridge runs all summer, whether we're there or not. Beer's always cold when we return after an absence.

 

[PUG]

$200 isn't too bad but it is still two hundred. I always do my own as I know it is done right. It will usually take me most of a day but what the heck. I switched from regular wheel bearing grease to mobil 1 red synthetic. My brother sicked me onto it after he said his power company switched from regular grease to mobil 1 on the generator bearings and they had much less trouble with bearings after that. If you switch make sure you clean you old grease out good and repack with plenty of grease.

 

[davidg]

Jeremy It's not very hard of a job, if you have the time go for it you won't ever learn if you don't try. I have one tip, that is after your first trip pick up one tire at a time and check to see if it is as tight as you would like it to be. I will just snug mine then back up to the first notch.
David

 

[bill40]

I guess I am lucky, i just picked up the BC and the charge for packing the wheel bearings was $ 45.00 labor, I did have some other work done but it looks like that was pretty reasonable. May be due to the fact he needed to remove the wheels for some other work. I use a local guy not the local dealer. The dealer is not user friendly on a Heartland product not purchased there, plus his hourly rate is over $100 per.

 

[57chevyconvt]

The only special tool needed for this job is an 18" or 24" nail bar for removing the old grease seal. I have found the nail bar to be the best tool for this job. I believe if you read all of the noted post on this subject you will be well on your way to a successful repack job. If you have any questions as you progress with the job plan or the actual event, just post your concern and someone will be anxious to hold you hand. Be sure to purchase a good quality double lip grease seals and some cotter pins in preparation for the job. I would recommend the Mobile One Synthetic Grease or the RED LINE CV-2 grease for this job. There is a U-Tube video available from Etrailer.com that shows an abbreviated method of repacking boat trailer wheel bearings. Also go to Lippert's website and download their procedure for repacking wheel bearings. Good Luck!

 

[jnbhobe]

I think most of the late model rigs have locks for the spindle nuts as the spindles are drilled for zerk fittings.

 

[57chevyconvt]

Jon, You may be correct on the newer spindles having a washer with a locking tab for the spindle nut, but on my 2010 BH, Lippert 6000# axle/spindle, the hole for the Easy Lube zerk fitting and the hole for the cotter pin don't intersect, i.e., the cotter pin hole is drilled below center of the spindle. If the spindle uses a washer with a locking tab, I would recommend replacing the washer at the time of repacking the bearings.

 

[Bob&Patty]

Jim, a rolling head bar works good for removing the seal from the drum. But, even cheaper and easier is to remove the outer bearing...reinstall the nut...and pull. Voila....off comes the inner bearing and seal. Been doing it that for 40????? some years. Works every time.

 

[jnbhobe]

How right you are Bob, You old guys know all the answers !! LOL. Amazing how the old tricks work so well.

 

[57chevyconvt]

Jim, a rolling head bar works good for removing the seal from the drum. But, even cheaper and easier is to remove the outer bearing...reinstall the nut...and pull. Voila....off comes the inner bearing and seal. Been doing it that for 40????? some years. Works every time.

Bob,
The method that you noted for removing the seal was the method that I learned in Automotive Tech School about 40 years ago, but since then I was re-educated by attending SKF bearing seminar that made note that this method could do damage (bending) to the inner bearing roller bearing cage. Therefore, I have refrained from using this method of removing the grease seal. Although I have never observed a damaged cage using the method you noted. Only comment is that if one is to use the old and tried method of removing the seal, a close follow up inspection of the bear cage would be in order.

 

[jimtoo]

I need to ask,,, Why are we worried about damaging the OLD seal. Just pop that sucker out with big screwdriver or bar.... cause I would never reuse the old seal anyway. That's why parts houses sell new ones.

Jim M

 

[Birchwood]

Wheels are probably the most important part of a trailer especially if you tow it from one end of North America to the other.
As long as the wheels turn you are mobile and that is why I leave it to a mechanic for wheel bearing and brake service.
Bearing failure could cause substantial damage to an RV .

 

[MTPockets]

Proper wheel bearing maintenance depends on 'clean' grease and the proper amount of lubrication. Do the job with clean hands, clean rags, clean parts. "Always" replace the seals - it's cheap insurance; this is the primary location of contaminants entering the bearings. Synthetic greases are good, but no advantage if you're replacing it every year. Don't mix grease types. I was in the bearing business for 40 years - taught plant maintenance and plant engineering in proper bearing handling and lubrication. Packing wheel bearings is not a hard job if you use manufacturers guidelines, clean grease, new seals, proper installation. Do these things and the bearings will last as long as the 5th wheel.