Where did my rv antifreeze go?

Finally called Heartland customer service to see if I could get an answer. They informed me that there is no low point drain or fresh water tank drain. They said to drain the system through the outside shower. That still doesn't drain the fresh water tank though.
They had no thoughts whatsoever on the Anderson valve.
This is the second time I've contacted them with a question and they had no answer.
As far as I'm concerned, they're a bunch of morons.
Called Anderson valve and the person I need to talk with is out to lunch. Hopefully I can get an answer on the valve and where my antifreeze went.
I'm still perplexed as to how to empty my fresh water tank (although I don't think there's any issue with freezing as I'm pretty sure there's three gallons of antifreeze in there). I never dry camp so no concerns with that.
I may try to bypass the Anderson valve and hook up directly to my pump to at least get the thing winterized.
Any other thoughts from anyone?
 

danemayer

Well-known member
I'd suggest you remove several of the coroplast mounting screws on the off-door-side so you can peek into the underbelly and look at the front edge of the fresh water tank. You should see the pex tubing that connects the tank to the pump. And there will probably be a tee with your fresh tank drain tube.

Alternatively, you could cut the coroplast in a rectangular shape, leaving the front edge of the rectangle uncut so it acts as a hinge. If you cut the rectangle about 18" in from the frame, just in front of the axles, you should be able to see what's going on. Gorilla tape or scrimm tape will seal it back up.
 

oldelmer1

Well-known member
If you think it all went into the fresh water tank, you could try turning the anderson valve to pump and see it any pink comes out of the faucet.
 
So I called Heartland again to verify that there is no fresh water tank drain. A different rep told me the same thing, no drain. So I won't tear apart my coroplast.
I tried to pull antifreeze (actually plain water) directly into the water system bypassing the Anderson valve after speaking with a rep from ABCO (who was very helpful) and the same thing happened. At this point I think my check valve on my water pump is bad. I'm going to just replace the whole pump next week. I'll also check the "A" valve after removing it for proper operation.
Will keep you posted next week after I get my new pump.
 

danemayer

Well-known member
So I called Heartland again to verify that there is no fresh water tank drain. A different rep told me the same thing, no drain. So I won't tear apart my coroplast.
I tried to pull antifreeze (actually plain water) directly into the water system bypassing the Anderson valve after speaking with a rep from ABCO (who was very helpful) and the same thing happened. At this point I think my check valve on my water pump is bad. I'm going to just replace the whole pump next week. I'll also check the "A" valve after removing it for proper operation.
Will keep you posted next week after I get my new pump.

If the theory is that a bad check valve in the pump allowed the antifreeze to get pumped into the fresh tank, that seems pretty unlikely to me. I doubt that fluid can go backward through the pump while it's running, trying to suction water in the opposite direction.

I'd suggest disconnecting the hose from the right side of the Anderson Valve. Then, while the valve is set to ANTIFREEZE, pump some more antifreeze (but you could just use water for this test). If it spurts out of the right side where you disconnected the hose that goes to the fresh tank, that would verify the antifreeze is going into the fresh tank. But it would also mean the problem is with the Anderson Valve.
Anderson 4way valve 5 Sanitize.jpg
 

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Chrisandsama

Well-known member
So I called Heartland again to verify that there is no fresh water tank drain. A different rep told me the same thing, no drain. So I won't tear apart my coroplast.
I tried to pull antifreeze (actually plain water) directly into the water system bypassing the Anderson valve after speaking with a rep from ABCO (who was very helpful) and the same thing happened. At this point I think my check valve on my water pump is bad. I'm going to just replace the whole pump next week. I'll also check the "A" valve after removing it for proper operation.
Will keep you posted next week after I get my new pump.

20191025_174003.jpgHere is the fresh water drain on my 2018 32RS, not sure why heartland is saying there is no fresh water drain.
 
They told me twice that some had drains and some didn't.
I figured out that the antifreeze actually went into my hot water heater.
Checked my "A" valve and all is ok.
I'm just going to use compressed air and call it a day.
 

Fox

Well-known member
I don't buy their explanation.
Otherwise just imagine the stuff that'll be growing in that FRESH? tank after a few years. No way would I drink it, why I wouldn't even feel comfortable about flushing the toilet with it.
 
As I stated before the customer service at Heartland leaves a lot to be desired. They have been no help at all whenever I've called there.
Fortunately I never dry camp so I don't use the fresh water tank. I did run bleach in there earlier so that should take care of anything that might grow there.
 

Fox

Well-known member
Bleach or not, whatever is in there needs to come out (periodically).

Generally we only carry about 1/4 tank, enough for a roadside emergency flush/ no drinking. Regardless I drain it each year.
 

SNOKING

Well-known member
They told me twice that some had drains and some didn't.
I figured out that the antifreeze actually went into my hot water heater.
Checked my "A" valve and all is ok.
I'm just going to use compressed air and call it a day.

Then you need to check out the check valve on the outlet of the water heater tank if water ended up in the water hot via the path. Or you did not have the water tank bypass valve set correctly, or you do not have one. Do your have a bypass valve like in this picture, center with Red writing on label above the hand in the picture? Or the Red handle in the second photo. Chris
 

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danemayer

Well-known member
They told me twice that some had drains and some didn't.

I'm guessing customer service thought you were asking about low point drains, rather than the fresh tank drain. On Landmark, Bighorn, Big Country, there are no low point drains - just a fresh tank drain. The low point drains were eliminated because these rigs are more likely to be used year round. In sub-freezing weather, the low point drains can freeze between the valve and the coroplast, and the ice can wick up into the tee, blocking the water lines.

Some models other than Landmark, Bighorn and Big Country may still have low point drains.
 
I did have the bypass set to bypass. My guess now is the check valve on the hot water heater may have failed. Whatever it is I'll deal with it next year. Compressed air will be the way to go this year.
I asked specifically about fresh water tank drain and not low point drain both times I spoke to customer service. Both times they said there is no fresh tank drain. I'm not going to take down my underbelly as I have nicely taped and secured what my dealer butchered when they replaced my black water tank. I'll never use the fresh water tank anyway.
 
Used compressed air to flush out the lines. Ran some antifreeze into the fresh water tank just in case.
All is well now.
I'll probably replace the check valve on the hot water heater next season. If my hot water heater bypass valve has failed, I'll install a manual bypass kit. It's a lot cheaper than replacing the built in bypass and I have easy access to my hot water heater.
 
So I finally get a reply from an email sent to Heartland. Here it is:

Mark,
You should have low point drains. If you look up under your unit around where the tires are located you should be able to see a some tubes hanging down with valves on them. Those are your low point drains. There should be one for the hot water, one for the cold water, and one for the water tank.

Dealer Services
Heartland Recreational Vehicles
0

2912 Dexter Dr
Elkhart, IN 46514
PH:877-262-8032
Fax: 574-262-8340

These people are totally clueless. There was also an attachment on how to winterize which showed three drains and a hot water heater bypass on the back of the hot water heater (old school style) even after I had supplied the VIN of my unit.
I can't emphasize enough how inept Heartland is.
 

jolar3329

Well-known member
On my trailer the bypass valve handles are plastic and haven't work right since day one. They get rounded out. to use the valve remove the handle and turn the valve with a wrench then reinstall the handle. They are decoration only.
 

SNOKING

Well-known member
On my trailer the bypass valve handles are plastic and haven't work right since day one. They get rounded out. to use the valve remove the handle and turn the valve with a wrench then reinstall the handle. They are decoration only.

Reliving the water pressure on the system makes the valves move much easier, including the Anderson valve.
 

rhodies1

Well-known member
Hello Maidds1981:::::

I have a contact n Heartland Tech Dept. so I emailed him in reference to no fresh water tank drain on your model unit.He has confirmed that your Bighorn Traveller model does indeed have a drain for the fresh water tank. He stated that it should be protruding thru the coroplast behind the axles.As for low point drains, he has been advised by Engineering that for low point drains, you must remove anode rod on water heater and open faucets to eliminate as much water out of the system as possible before winterizing.
If you do not see a drain thru the coroplast then it’s no doubt laying next to the tank.
Maybe never put thru by Heartland or your dealer during the repairs you had completed by them...black tank exchange.
Im confident it’s there but not thru coroplast.
 
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