Whoops!!!!

[danemayer]

1 or 2 inches sounds like a lot to me too. I don't want 3000# of pin weight dropping even that much. I raise them just enough so there's no weight on them - maybe 1/4" off the ground.

And yes, on the Hensley, you have to verify the jaws are closed, and that the release arm has moved to the locked position.

 

[Swanny59]

Thank you for the response Bill. I just bought a kingpin lock for my Sundance and it works great.

 

[PUG]

Being an x trucker, I have never just hooked up and took off without testing the lockup. Back it in, set the lock, pull the landing gear up enough to get the weight off but not to much, and test it by backing into it again, and forward, and back and forward again. Should be good then huh?


Being I am getting old and sometimes prone to screwing up, I decided I needed to put another check upon myself. I was looking around seeing if anyone makes anything that might give me a little more confidence I won't loose my happy home. I found a few that I didn't really like and ran into one that I did and was really pretty economical. Here is the link to it.
http://www.butchsservices.com/5601.html I have just installed it and tested it and it looks pretty dumb and senile proof.

 

[traveler44]

After hearing the guys at the first rally we attended, in 09, talk about somebody dropping their 5er out of the hitch I bought and installed the Blue Ox bed saver on mine. It requires an extra step when hitching because you have to raise the pin over it and back down to get the pin in position to hitch up. I didn't trust the bed saver to hold all of that weight if I needed it so I tested it by raising the landing gear a little and dropping the pin weight on to it. It held the pin weight well. Otherwise I was going to add an extra brace from the bottom of the bed saver to the bed of the truck. It sure gives me some extra piece of mind. I still do the pull test though just to make sure I'm hitched properly. Tom

 

[JohnDar]

Being an x trucker, I have never just hooked up and took off without testing the lockup. Back it in, set the lock, pull the landing gear up enough to get the weight off but not to much, and test it by backing into it again, and forward, and back and forward again. Should be good then huh?


Being I am getting old and sometimes prone to screwing up, I decided I needed to put another check upon myself. I was looking around seeing if anyone makes anything that might give me a little more confidence I won't loose my happy home. I found a few that I didn't really like and ran into one that I did and was really pretty economical. Here is the link to it.
http://www.butchsservices.com/5601.html I have just installed it and tested it and it looks pretty dumb and senile proof.

And about $200 less than a BedSaver and takes up less room. Might have to add that to my shopping list.

 

[porthole]

And about $200 less than a BedSaver and takes up less room. Might have to add that to my shopping list.

Was thinking the same thing

 

[jimtoo]

Why is it,,, Something as simple as this,, yet looks plenty strong.. is just now being thought of as a safety device??? This is the best looking device I have seen to help stop a "Whoops!!" And the thing is this could be adapted for use on the big rigs... I know,, they never have a problem... believe me they do also...I have seen it.

I think I would trade my BedSaver for one of these.

Jim M

 

[Boca_Shuffles]

Tailgates are cheaper than frames. When I first started RVing, I thought that a tailgate with a v-cutout would be convenient. But I postponed getting one. However, after destroying my standard tailgate by not pull testing properly, I realized that the standard tailgate actually protected the sidewalls of my truck. If I had installed one of the RV tailgates, the damage would have been worse because the tailgate would not have absorbed the impact.

So if you have an RV tailgate, be extra diligent in your hitching procedures.

Regardless of the type of tailgate you have, make sure you do the hitch test. Been there, done that.

Thanks for the info on the new style security pin. I will be installing one of these.

 

[SilverRhino]

Looks to me that this would be a great "Insurance Plan"..........At $50 it would probably be the cheapest I ever bought!

 

[PUG]

take a look at http://www.butchsservices.com/5601.html for an economical pin catcher.

 

[wdk450]

PUG:
Did you spell the link correctly? I got an error message when clicking on it.

I think you were referring people to the website cited earlier in this thread.

take a look at http://www.butchsservices.com/5601.html for an economical pin catcher.

 

[merlinb]

There is an extra "e" in that link. It should be: http://www.butchsservices.com/5601.html

This will take you right to the item. I looked at ordering one yesterday and it said "Out of stock." Oh, well, try again later.

Edit: I see now it says, "Out of stock until 1/27/2012" O.K. Get in line, boys.

 

[Gaffer]

I am going to look for this product in Quartzsite tomorrow. Are you still there Bill? After the RV show I plan to visit Quartzfest. Want to geet some ideas on mobile and portable ham antennas.
PJ

 

[wdk450]

PJ:
I am out on Palamosa Road, about 1.5 miles in, on the left side as you travel away from 95. I am with the LOW's group (look for the house-style TV antenna on one of the nearby rigs). I am leaving friday morning.
I have had too many other boondocking problems to do any ham stuff.

I am going to look for this product in Quartzsite tomorrow. Are you still there Bill? After the RV show I plan to visit Quartzfest. Want to geet some ideas on mobile and portable ham antennas.
PJ

 

[Gaffer]

We will try to stop by and see you after we see what we want in Quartzsite. Then down to Quartzfest.
PJ

 

[wdk450]

Gang:
I finally installed the ButchServices 5th wheel latch kit last week. It was fairly easy with my Curt hitch, but I thought I would post some comments;
The kit includes a centerpunch of the correct diameter to fit snugly in the predrilled holes in the latch brackets. All you have to do is C clamp the brackets into their correct position, and use the punch and a hammer to mark and put a drill starting dimple at each hole site. Then remove the C clamps and drill out the holes with the drill bit supplied in the kit. I would suggest some drillling oil, as the hitch plate is hard steel. Then just install the latch with the included bolts, lockwashers and nuts. Torque it up tight. I found that the rollpin on the latch release handle was binding in the channel of the bracket. A simple bump on the handle with the pin in the center of the channel loosened it up. I did notice that I can no longer balance my hitch plate near level for hitching, as the latch kit adds weight to the rear of the hitch plate.

I bought a new 12 volt lithium battery drill from Sears and used it for the first time on this project. It drilled 3 of the holes just fine, was halfway through the 4th hole when I stopped to add some drilling oil. The drill wan't running slow at this point, but when I went to continue drilling, it wouldn't start. I measured the battery with a voltmeter and it had 9.6 volts on it. I finally put the battery in the charger for 30 minutes of quick charge, and then the drill worked O.K. I guess these new drills have low battery shutdown circuitry, instead of running the battery down until the drill stops.

 

[TeJay]

Bill,
The newest lithium-ion batteries discharge differently than others. They have a much straighter line of discharge than normal. In other words they will maintain their working voltage higher and longer then towards the end it will fall off. Others will loose their starting voltage gradually over the length of their charge. That's good for the Lithium battery because it will work longer at full voltage until just before it stops and they are lighter.
TeJay