YouTube is replete with videos about why you want some type of pin box or hitch that will help control the shock loading at the pin box as well as chucking. Beside the trailer frame, the contents of the rig are vulnerable to the road surface. There are plenty of methods. A good pin box made to accomplish the task or a Trailer Saver hitch which is what I have (I can't speak to the effectiveness of the pin box because i've never owned one). But they do not call the Trailer Saver BD3 "Trailer Saver" for nothing. Be sure to check craigs list before you buy you might be able to get a new Mor/Ryde or one of the others from a fellow fiver owner. Same with the BD3, I saw a BD3 for $1500 on craigslist, brand new, I have seen several for $900 that had been around the block once or twice. You are right to be looking at this aspect of your fiver. Pay attention to weight, every pound on your pin box or hitch, cost you in pin weight/payload. If you have not already bought your hitch at least look at the trailer saver BD3, if you have already bought your hitch then you will want to look at the field of pin box players.
I have provided some weights that I had in my notes from when I did this same project to protect my rig.
Trailer Saver 155 lbs + 80 LBS slider = 235 lbs with slider
Reese Elite hitch 142 lbs + Mor-ryde 145 lbs - 135 lbs old pin box and plastic shield = 152 + 65 lbs slider = total 217 lbs with slider.
BD3 without slider is 3 lbs heavier than reese, add the sliders then BD3 is 17 lbs heavier.
A slider is really a thing of the past with the 88 degree turn radius, I have one but wonder why? I have never used it. I have been in some tight spots that I thought I needed it, but ultimately did not. I'm beginning to think that it is 80 lbs that I do not need taking up payload. Especially since I firmly believe that tight turns induce tire problems that result in blowouts. If you gotta turn that tight you probably should do something else. But still I feel like I need it along.
Good luck let us know what you come up with.