Winterizing a trailer to live in it...

[haase]

Ok so I was browsing some of the topics for winterizing a trailer and they didn't really cover what I was looking for. Some of the suggestions gaven seemed for when you are going to store your trailer not live in it during the winter.

We are on Hudu Mountain, Northern Idaho and all our neighbors who have tried to live in their trailers during the winter (while building their home) had to move off the mountain, they said they just couldn't do it, it was too cold, their pipes froze, etc, etc. When we were in Kansas and our pipes froze there was a facility a few steps away for showers and a bathroom, here there's nothing!!! We want to do everything possible to stay put but if we freeze, we'll move. Do you have any suggestions? We are going to make a skirting out of foam boards and plywood, build a box around a Mr buddy propane heater and vent it under there, adding road felt and gravel so we don't catch the dead grass on fire, but what else could we do? We have the all seasons package and can run the tank heaters but it's the pipes I'm worried about.

Also we had a problem of our propane regulators freezing and then propane leaked out setting our alarm off, is there a way in keeping them from freezing and breaking again?

Another question I had is about using your awning during winter, is there a way to get it to hold up to a little weight of snow? Ours just buckled, didn't break or rip! It would be nice if there was a way to use it so you don't step out directly into the "elements"!

Thanks again for your time! *Cheers*

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[GOTTOYS]

Well...the fact is, if several of your neighbors tried it and couldn't make it work why do you think your experience would be any different? These are just not made to work for any period of time in way below freezing temperatures. They are a couple makes that will but a Cyclone is not one of them. Even if you do succeed in keeping the pipes from freezing the amount of propane you will burn would probably pay for an apartment. Just plan on moving now and don't waste your time or money...JMHO...Don

 

[haase]

Not sure the make of one of my neighbors trailer but the other has an old bumper pull not ment for cold weather and not sure if they tried winterizing their trailers, we asked, they didn't know. Just trying to get some friendly advise from those who have weathered the cold and had some good tricks of the trade we haven't tried before. Moving is a hassle and we'd like to stay put and save the rental space cost, none available now not sure if there there will be any available come winter time, very small town one rv park, neighbors had to rent a house and pay a mortgage, very expensive winter...

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[danemayer]

We've had 5 extended ski trips to Breckenridge, CO. We've had temps as low as -30 (F). One season, daytime temps rarely got above 10 (F) and nighttime temps were routinely colder than -15 (F).

Perhaps rather than a large skirt, you might do better with a mini-skirt under the plumbing areas. And rather than having a propane heater running heat through a duct or some other arrangement, I'd suggest a smart ceramic disc heater (Pelonis Classic) sitting inside the mini-skirt area on a piece of wood (to keep it dry). That's what we do and it keeps the underbelly at 70 (F) most of the time. Might fall between 45 and 50 on a brutally cold night. The mini-skirt with heat will also protect gate valves from freezing.

Tank heaters on all tanks are essential. Heat tape on all water lines will save you a lot of aggravation.

We're comfortable inside our Landmark mostly just with the furnace and the fireplace. If it's really cold, I'll throw a ceramic disc heater into the mix to supplement. I don't know how your 2007 Cyclone would compare.

A generator is essential to keep things from freezing during power outages.

Don's right about cost. Even with a large external propane tank and a good rate for refills, you'll spend a lot on propane and on electric. We never had a problem with regulators failing. But the external tank is connected to the main regulator and I'm pretty sure they add stuff to the propane around here to combat moisture issues.

You'll also have to be prepared to react quickly if you have any appliance failures or electrical failures. When we've had failures, they always seem to happen when snow makes it impossible to get over the pass to a dealer. And the nearest mobile service is 4-5 hours away. Plan on fixing everything yourself unless your service situation is different.

Take a look at our owner-written Water Systems Winter Usage Guide for more tips.

 

[fredwrichardson]

We have not tried to live in our Ashland but plan on having family use it as a guest house during the winter. Last winter when we got the unit we had to put a small electric heater in the basement. Also I would open the panel between the basement and were the water lines are. Last winter, even with the small heater the water filter froze so you need to make sure that the warm air circulates where all the water hoses are.

 

[JanAndBill]

Our Bighorn is like a sleeping bag rated for 20 degrees, at 19 degrees you freeze you &*^% off!! Coldest weather we've been in was 10 degrees, it was bearable until the wind started blowing hard. We kept the the thermostat on 72, used two electric heaters, and the fireplace and still had to fill a 30# tank every three days. However we have the EL (EXTRA LARGE WINDOWS) that are not thermal. They don't do bad in the summer, with the blinds pulled, but in the winter they radiate cold, plus the slide out walls and floors have very little insulation either. With the furnace on and a reflector light on in the basement we didn't have anything freeze up, but we would hook up the water, use what we needed and then unhook it again. Even with the heat tape on the hose, unless the spigot has heat tape all the way to the ground, it will freeze. As to the awnings and slide toppers, snow has to pretty much be removed manually.

 

[haase]

In Kansas I had no problem keeping the inside at 80° (witch my husband thought was too warm after working in 15° feels like 0° because of wind chill all day), we had our water pipe that came out of the ground we tapped into wrapped with heat and foam, windows were taped up with insulated covers, used a foam like tape for the gaps around the slides and around the garage door, etc etc, like I said we were cozy! But, the pipes froze. I think this time we'll take the suggestion of taking down the underside cover (whatever you call it) and addressing the source, getting heat up in there.

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[danemayer]

Another question I had is about using your awning during winter, is there a way to get it to hold up to a little weight of snow? Ours just buckled, didn't break or rip! It would be nice if there was a way to use it so you don't step out directly into the "elements"!

In 5 years I have never seen anyone even attempt to put out their main awning in the winter, and there are a lot of other campers around us.

If you have slide toppers, you'll need to support them and clean them off frequently. I've tried a number of approaches. PVC supports work best for me.

 

[jmgratz]

I remember seeing on the forum a individual that spent the winter working in Wyoming. He skirted the entire coach, heat taped the water and sewer lines and made several other mods. I think he had a Cyclone but that was a couple of years ago. Being in Idaho you might even get colder. If you decide to do it your are braver than I am. I know your propane costs could probably pay the rent on a sticks and bricks or an apartment. Good luck.

 

[danemayer]

You might want to call the propane providers in the area to see what they charge per gallon with an external tank.

In southern Colorado it's running about $1.60 /gallon now. You might plan on going through 100 gallons or more per month depending on how much heat transfers through your windows. You'll also probably have a comparable electric bill. I'd plan on $300-350 combined cost.

But sometimes propane cost goes up. 2 years ago it was above $4.00 /gallon. That would raise your utility cost to the mid $500s.

 

[jimtoo]

I remember seeing on the forum a individual that spent the winter working in Wyoming. He skirted the entire coach, heat taped the water and sewer lines and made several other mods. I think he had a Cyclone but that was a couple of years ago. Being in Idaho you might even get colder. If you decide to do it your are braver than I am. I know your propane costs could probably pay the rent on a sticks and bricks or an apartment. Good luck.

That was htneighbors , he spent a couple of winters up that way I think. He has not been on in almost a year now. This is a thread he made about winterizing his Cyclone.

Jim M

 

[travlingman]

We spent this last winter in ours while building a house. We had a week where it never got above freezing with night temps at 0 or lower(-13 one night, wind chill -30) and only had water line to kitchen sink freeze up. Located in east TN, actually staying at a lakefront campground, and had one of our coldest winters in recent history. We do have Yeti package which includes tank pads and heat tape on water line from tank. Also have dual pane windows. Our monthly rate included electricity, so I tried not to run propane unless necessary. Never needed to buy propane all winter, but did top tank off just in case. Kept thermostat at 70 and furnace only came on the night of -13. In basement I opened up wall and ran an electric heater at all times, this added warmth to floors also.(after changing direction of the way heater blowing, never had water line issue) I put insulation in utility center, and added insulation to our outdoor entertainment center. In rig we ran fireplace as needed, had an oil filled radiator heater that ran at all times and had to use an additional ceramic heater when below 0 in bedroom.

We never used fresh water tank as we purchased a Pirot heated hose which worked as advertised. Put heat tape on water spiquet along with insulation, vapor barrier and then duct tape and again had no issue.

I would think that if you skirted around bottom, hay bales, tarps, etc. to keep wind out that would be a big help for you. I did see a couple use a construction type propane heater with blower on their travel trailer that had plastic around it to break the wind. The oil filled heaters are warm and quiet, and once heated seem to be more efficient. The biggest fight in winter is keeping the underbelly warm I think, so look for ways that cold air can get in, especially wind. Check your seals around the slides, if not sealed right, they can let cold in and suck the heat out. Look into the window coverings that you can heat with a hand dryer and they shrink up to help insulate. Defiantly get the cushions to stick in your fantastic vents as these really help.

 

[haase]

That was htneighbors , he spent a couple of winters up that way I think. He has not been on in almost a year now. This is a thread he made about winterizing his Cyclone.

Jim M

Thanks for the advice everyone, it's really appreciated! Thanks

And thanks for htneighbors blog, very helpful!!!!

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[Rickhansen]

Not mentioned so far is moisture control. I'd recommend a portable dehumidifier. The more you seal things up, the more moisture you will have from cooking, showering, and just breathing inside. There will be plenty of cold surfaces that will condense this moisture on including walls, window frames, etc. There are plenty of posts on here where folks have had mildew between their mostly uninsulated slide walls and their mattresses. I also suggest covering your air conditioners as they are poorly insulated and will cause drafts.

 

[haase]

Not mentioned so far is moisture control. I'd recommend a portable dehumidifier. The more you seal things up, the more moisture you will have from cooking, showering, and just breathing inside. There will be plenty of cold surfaces that will condense this moisture on including walls, window frames, etc. There are plenty of posts on here where folks have had mildew between their mostly uninsulated slide walls and their mattresses. I also suggest covering your air conditioners as they are poorly insulated and will cause drafts.

Yeah we had to get a dehumidifier in Oregon last winter, it was so extremely wet our walls would sweat and mold! Didn't think of sealing the AC unit thought, our idea was to cover the top with a tarp but somehow (still figuring it out) vent for the fridge, sewer, etc, then let it over hang and attach it to a wood frame with a ply wood top where our awning would be, that way we have some cover when we walk out.

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[danemayer]

Our first winter in Breckenridge, we brought a dehumidifier with us. Turned out we had to buy a humidifier because the air was so dry it was irritating our airways and sinuses.

However, even with very low humidity the temperature differential at the head of the bed can result in condensation buildup and even ice on the bedding. We keep the head of the bed about 1" away from the wall during the winter.