Winterizing Big Horn Camper/where are the low point drains.
- Thread starter babs8290
- Start date
danemayer
Well-known member
Hi babs8290,
Winterizing can vary a bit by model because of different options, model and floorplan, and age of the trailer. Let me point you to a video that demonstrates winterizing an Elkridge. It's pretty close to what you have.
On the washer, you need to get antifreeze to flow into the drum, through the washer's internal drain, and into the drain pipe p-trap. I would suggest using Cycle A to get the antifreeze in the drum and Cycle C to run it into the drain. I would suggest not skimping so as to be sure the washer and drain and p-trap are protected.
If you have an icemaker and/or water dispenser, the video suggests getting professional help. The Dometic 1350 manual has a winterizing procedure, but you have to use compressed air - no antifreeze. The basics include evacuating the water feed line that starts behind the UDC, evacuating the water lines (and dispenser tank) inside the refrigerator, and evacuating the water feed solenoid on the back of the refrigerator (which requires you trigger icemaker water feed and water dispenser water feed while applying compressed air).
It's also possible to skip antifreeze by using compressed air at 20psi going into the city water connection to evacuate all the water lines including washer and icemaker.
Regardless of method, don't forget the toilet, the black tank flush, and the outside shower. They're easy to miss.
And regardless of which method you use, you'll have to make sure there's RV antifreeze in each p-trap.
Very important: RV antifreeze is different from automotive antifreeze. They're not interchangeable.
Winterizing can vary a bit by model because of different options, model and floorplan, and age of the trailer. Let me point you to a video that demonstrates winterizing an Elkridge. It's pretty close to what you have.
On the washer, you need to get antifreeze to flow into the drum, through the washer's internal drain, and into the drain pipe p-trap. I would suggest using Cycle A to get the antifreeze in the drum and Cycle C to run it into the drain. I would suggest not skimping so as to be sure the washer and drain and p-trap are protected.
If you have an icemaker and/or water dispenser, the video suggests getting professional help. The Dometic 1350 manual has a winterizing procedure, but you have to use compressed air - no antifreeze. The basics include evacuating the water feed line that starts behind the UDC, evacuating the water lines (and dispenser tank) inside the refrigerator, and evacuating the water feed solenoid on the back of the refrigerator (which requires you trigger icemaker water feed and water dispenser water feed while applying compressed air).
It's also possible to skip antifreeze by using compressed air at 20psi going into the city water connection to evacuate all the water lines including washer and icemaker.
Regardless of method, don't forget the toilet, the black tank flush, and the outside shower. They're easy to miss.
And regardless of which method you use, you'll have to make sure there's RV antifreeze in each p-trap.
Very important: RV antifreeze is different from automotive antifreeze. They're not interchangeable.
Hopefully this will help? http://camping.about.com/od/rvmaintenance/a/Preparing-RVs-for-Winter.htm
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