Wireless Ground Control RV leveling system

[JohnDar]

John, Thanks for the pix, I see what you were saying about the bracket change. The slide tie bar is located on the frame rail, It appears that this new design will not bridge over the bar like the older design. It will need to be placed under the bar however there is only about 2 1/2" of clearance. From the pix it looks like more is required. How far is the top of the bracket from the bottom of the frame rail?

Not so sure about that. It was cold and windy, but I took the bracket this morning for a test fit on the frame. With the motor plate bolted onto the mount bracket, it looks like it will easily clear the slide bar that runs along the I-beam. From the flyer, it looks like the original design relied on some spacers to provide support for the stand-off distance. Other nice thing I noticed is that you can just hang it at the position you want to mount it at and mark for drilling, without it falling off.

Just measured the bracket, and the top with the ears is about 2" above the notch for the rail. But the design to fit over the rail puts the mount surface for the motor 2" away from the edge of the rail.

 

[dieselengineer]

Not so sure about that. It was cold and windy, but I took the bracket this morning for a test fit on the frame. With the motor plate bolted onto the mount bracket, it looks like it will easily clear the slide bar that runs along the I-beam. From the flyer, it looks like the original design relied on some spacers to provide support for the stand-off distance. Other nice thing I noticed is that you can just hang it at the position you want to mount it at and mark for drilling, without it falling off.

Just measured the bracket, and the top with the ears is about 2" above the notch for the rail. But the design to fit over the rail puts the mount surface for the motor 2" away from the edge of the rail.

John, I was not concern about the jack leg clearance, it was the distance above the notch. If that distance is only 2" it should be good to go. The new bracket design appears to be a stronger design, wider front to back contact pad on the bottom of the rail. Less welds. Looks good!

 

[JohnDar]

John, I was not concern about the jack leg clearance, it was the distance above the notch. If that distance is only 2" it should be good to go. The new bracket design appears to be a stronger design, wider front to back contact pad on the bottom of the rail. Less welds. Looks good!

Gotcha! The original design, shown in Larry's photo, extended above the rod and spanned over it. The new design appears to be a great improvement and easier to install.

View attachment 12434

 

[SouthernNights]

I have to agree with you on the new design. Instead of a 2 piece bracket it is all one piece now. That eliminates the need for two different size upper brackets that came with my kit.

 

[ncc1701e]

While stopping in Elkhart, IN we are considering having the wireless rv leveling system manufactured by Rieco/Titan installed on our 3055rl. The system consists of 4 jacks to replace the forward landing gear and the rear stabilizing jacks on a 5th wheel, operate at a much faster speed, and each jack is capable of lifting 5,000 lbs, for a total capacity of 20,000 lbs. Has anyone out there had this system installed, or have any experience with this system? If not, and we are the "initial" customer, we will provide a review on the system after we operational check it out.

I was doing some research on the Rico Ground Control System for our new camper (Sundance 3310CL) and found this post. May I ask, did you have the system installed on your unit? If so, how has is it performed? Did you have the factory install or a third party?

Thanks

Tom

 

[JohnDar]

I was doing some research on the Rico Ground Control System for our new camper (Sundance 3310CL) and found this post. May I ask, did you have the system installed on your unit? If so, how has is it performed? Did you have the factory install or a third party?

Thanks

Tom

If I may, I'll answer some of your question. I ordered the complete four jack system directly from Rieco-Titan, before Lippert bought them out. I installed it myself in the Spring of 2011. Installation was pretty simple and straightforward, if you're reasonably handy with tools. The system works as advertised, but if you plan to lift the entire rig off the ground with it, have a spare 60A ATC fuse on hand. Works best if you alternate lifting one side, then the other. But to lift one side, to change a tire, no problems. My "older" system came with the wireless remote, which can be plugged into the system should its battery die. It also has another controller that can be plugged in, should the remote get lost or damaged. Without one of the controllers, the jacks cannot be operated, even if someone turns on the outside power switch (so no worries about pranksters messing with your rig).

Unlike the "automatic" hydraulic systems, the RT system requires you to do the work of leveling. Meaning you have to operate the controller, not push a button and walk away. Personally, I prefer it. And, unlike the hydraulic systems, there are options should the "brain" fail.

I left the OEM rear electric stabilizers on the trailer and still use them, once I've leveled the trailer. Adds two more points of contact/stabilization to the system.

There is one caveat to self-installing the RT system and it's due to the design of your rig. If the front jack posts are accessible from inside the front compartment, it's no problem. If their outside and hidden by the walls or propane cabinet, removing the OEM's and installing the replacements will be difficult. How a "factory" installer would do it is unknown.

 

[Nabo]

Tom - I have sent you a private message with my cell number. Give me a call since ya'll in Townsend and let's get together.

As for the leveling system - we have installed it on 2 different coaches and would do it again. Great system.
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