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SouthernNights
09-06-2009, 08:28 PM
I have read here that there is no "insulation" in the slide out walls because the factory didnt feel it was necessary. How about the rear wall?? This what I found after drilling a hole in the wall. The B in the picture tells the location.
I realize that fiberglass batt only creates the dead air space necessary to insulate-but this wall is not air tight.

What is the factory policy for "insulation"? I now know the rear wall is not a laminated panel.

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f340/piratevader1/019.jpg

SouthernNights
09-09-2009, 02:49 PM
Maybe I did not ask the right the question. Is there insulation in the rear wall? If so at what height does it begin? This hole and another just like it on the other side is approx 1 foot above the floor. Neither had insulation between the inner and outer wall. Above this hole is wood bridging. Is there insulation above that or is the back wall not insulated?

Taz Devil
09-09-2009, 03:01 PM
From my dealings with the rear wall, there is very little batting at all. You would think it would be the same all the way around the entire coach. I would guess the newer models would have more, when you look at the pamlets that are out showing the cold temps and the heat that it is suppose to handle. Just my .02.

Kevin

SouthernNights
09-10-2009, 05:00 AM
Kevin,
How high up on the back wall have you been and at what point did you start seeing batt?
I really don't have a problem cooling the inside of the unit during the summer even with just one A/C unit. Have no idea about winter yet but my lack of ability to leave well enough alone is making to want to insulate the wall.

caissiel
09-10-2009, 02:27 PM
In my opinion every part of the trailer should be insulated due to the possibility of moisture to accumulate in the walls. When we miss the insulation in a House wall the wall rought, its the most important factor in a hous not to leave any walls exposed to the cold sweet.

SouthernNights
09-10-2009, 04:54 PM
Exactley right Caissiel. As a matter of fact the right rear side on the trailer which is exposed to the sun in the afternoon was damp like condensation. There was notheing wet, just damp. A friend owns the local Servepro here in town, but by the time I borrowed his moisture meter the next day the dampness was gone and the readings were acceptable so I guess I will never know. I did put batt in begore installing the new tailights.
I guess the factory has not seen this post yet.

bwwalczak
09-10-2009, 10:00 PM
Thank you for your post. I sit in Wisconsin tonight - traveling quite a bit and have not had a chance to catch up on posts. This is very important.

On Big Country we feature our laminated roof, floor and sidewalls. This means that the walls are glued together. In these glued and pressed (laminated) areas, we use solid foam material. See photos in our website "your laminated world" This closed cell material is VERY similar to what you will find in your ice chest or cooler, just much thicker. Also, our foam products are more expensive, they don't "bead" and fall apart like cheaper foams. These features make our product better than any competitor's product. Big Country is the only product that offers this level of sound and thermal insulation.

Inside the front and rear walls, (for wiring and other reasons) we use the traditional fiber batton insulation. This is the same material used in homes. All insulation is glued into place.

I assume this is a photo of the rear wall? If so, the fiberglass (white) is glued directly to the backer board. This adds strength. The backer board is attached to studs in the rear wall. In between each stud is the fiber insulation we mentioned above. This is all covered with the interior wallboard. Big Country is designed to have insulation covering the entire back wall (under the exterior fiberglass) / backer board. To answer your question, the back wall is insulated.

When I get back to the plant, I may be able to snap a quick photo of the rear wall to reassure you of Big Country's superior construction.

Please feel free to contact me. bryanw@heartlandrvs.com - not to be rude, but why are we drilling big holes in Big Countrys?

SouthernNights
09-11-2009, 02:43 AM
Thank you for your post. I sit in Wisconsin tonight - traveling quite a bit and have not had a chance to catch up on posts. This is very important.

On Big Country we feature our laminated roof, floor and sidewalls. This means that the walls are glued together. In these glued and pressed (laminated) areas, we use solid foam material. See photos in our website "your laminated world" This closed cell material is VERY similar to what you will find in your ice chest or cooler, just much thicker. Also, our foam products are more expensive, they don't "bead" and fall apart like cheaper foams. These features make our product better than any competitor's product. Big Country is the only product that offers this level of sound and thermal insulation.

Inside the front and rear walls, (for wiring and other reasons) we use the traditional fiber batton insulation. This is the same material used in homes. All insulation is glued into place.

I assume this is a photo of the rear wall? If so, the fiberglass (white) is glued directly to the backer board. This adds strength. The backer board is attached to studs in the rear wall. In between each stud is the fiber insulation we mentioned above. This is all covered with the interior wallboard. Big Country is designed to have insulation covering the entire back wall (under the exterior fiberglass) / backer board. To answer your question, the back wall is insulated.

When I get back to the plant, I may be able to snap a quick photo of the rear wall to reassure you of Big Country's superior construction.

Please feel free to contact me. bryanw@heartlandrvs.com - not to be rude, but why are we drilling big holes in Big Countrys?

I use closed cell insulation in alot of the homes we build. You are right about it being expensive. The typical 18oo sq ft house on a slab can cost as much $12000 just for insulation.:eek:

You can see the glue on the back side of the interior wall but no batt. I guess they missed it.It is good to know that there batt in the rest of it.

I changed the running lights and tail lights to L E D for saftey reasons. I put 4 round 4" tailights on the back. Got to say it really enhanced the looks of the rear of the trailer also. Dont worry, I didn't hurt your Big Country.:D

Tom of Ypsi
09-11-2009, 06:24 AM
Larry,

How about showing some pics of your finsihed BC for other owners and the factory to see. I like the fact that you put LED's in place of the bulbs, safety if first and foremost and will always have them on any other coach we may get.

jbeletti
09-11-2009, 07:07 AM
Larry,

I'd like to see a pic of the entire rear cap too with those cool new lights..

I think Bryan is saying the insulation is on the other side of that wall. Not between the rear cap and that wall but on the other side.

Interior wall board, insulation and studs, exterior wall board, then rear cap. I think :o

How about using some expanding foam insulation in that cavity behind the light? The shove some bowl shaped object into the light hole until the foam hardens. Just a thought.

Jim

SouthernNights
09-11-2009, 02:00 PM
I will post pics this weekend. I need to pull it off it's parking pad to get a good pic of the back end.
Jim, I do not have a rear molded cap on mine. That was not offered until '10. I did call the parts line for the price-I was going to add to mine but never got a return call. I just figured they wouldnt sell just the cap to me.
So....I have and outside rear wall, studs and the inside rear wall. No cap:(

.

jbeletti
09-11-2009, 03:08 PM
Thanks for circling back on this Larry. Wondering of the wiring team just pushed the insulation away from the light area??

The rear cap would be quite an expensive part plus uber crating and truck freight cost. It "may" be something you could get done at the plant. Bryan would know. But again, some $$$.

Jim

SouthernNights
09-12-2009, 09:12 AM
A couple of pictures showing the L E D tail lights and marker lights.


http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f340/piratevader1/013.jpg


<A href="http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f340/piratevader1/013.jpg" target=_blank>


http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f340/piratevader1/017.jpg





http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f340/piratevader1/015.jpg
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f340/piratevader1/017.jpg)

jbeletti
09-12-2009, 09:13 AM
Very cool Larry.

SouthernNights
09-12-2009, 07:20 PM
A few more at dusk


http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f340/piratevader1/028.jpg

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f340/piratevader1/030.jpg

Bob&Patty
09-13-2009, 12:28 AM
larry, looks good. Nice and bright. I did the same with LEDS but added 3 more to the sides. Made one a turn/marker lamp. By looking at the pix I'm not sure if you could add anymore lights to the sides. Bob:D:D

SouthernNights
09-13-2009, 04:59 AM
Hey Bob, the mid turn idea is a good one and I probably should have done it on this go-round. Oh, well , that will give me something to do later.

rick_debbie_gallant
09-13-2009, 05:52 AM
Okey looks great. Where about did you get your lights and the approximate cost?
thank you

SouthernNights
09-13-2009, 06:14 AM
I got the lights from http://www.superbrightleds.com/led_prods.htm

Cost was less than $200.00 for all of them. That includes a couple of step lights for the inside steps and a little led that comes on when I turn my refridgerator fan on.

Not all LEDs are built the same. Some are not very bright and some are not DOT approved but I had bought from these people in the past and they have good products.

Ray LeTourneau
09-13-2009, 07:51 AM
What's that big thing in the picture behind the 5th wheel???:eek: OMG it's a garage!:eek: Oh yeah, I remember now. I used to have one of those.;) It's the one downside of going full time. Giving up the garage and the tools we all used to have.:( Notice the frown isn't too sad though:D. I love this lifestyle! Nice work Larry!

Bob&Patty
09-13-2009, 10:29 AM
Larry, Im a true believer in the more lites the better. I dont know what your TV is, not in your sig. Heres the rub on not hooking the mid-ship turn lites on a seperate wire from the TV. When you apply the brakes they will lite up unless they are on seperate wire from the TV. I wired mine seperate and takes a little more work but its not really that hard to do. The extra ones I put on were 1 on each slide, 1 at the bottom front of the body and 1 between the front and mid-ship lite. Heres some pix. Bob:D

SouthernNights
09-13-2009, 11:10 AM
iLooks great Bob. I was a HDT mechanic for years and then a fleet mgr for a few more. You would think I would have thought about the mid turns before doing this...but NOOOO..now I have to do it twice:(

Ray, for a small fee I will let use use my garage for old times sake...:)

mrcomer
09-13-2009, 12:20 PM
Larry,
Nice mod you made and thank you for sharing. Let us know if you end up getting that molded rear cap. Will be interesting to see how much insulation was really there to begin with. Well I went back to lookat your pictures and realized you would have to give up your rear bumper and cool wagon carrier if you added the molded rear cap. Maybe not worth it.

Mark

Bob&Patty
09-13-2009, 12:45 PM
Larry, did I not see that you have a GMC or are you screwing with me. If you look under the rear of the your truck you will see a square connector. It should have 4 seperate connectors in it. If its like mine there should be 2 lite blue wires in 2 seperate connectors. they are the turn bulb wires. I spliced in a wire from each and installed a seperate 4 prong trailer connector by the Horn wiring plug (7 wire). Ran the wires up through the front cover under the bedroom. If you take the front compartment door latch (hold open) and the pin box trim off you can pull the wires through with 2 coat hangers or a long stiff wire. Then I ran them inside the wire harness that runs down each side. You will have to remove the screws from the lower skirting to run the wires. I did use split tube to protect the wires. You might want the run a wire for back up lites while you running wires. Inside of the electrical box on the pin box there is a blunt cut wire for back up lites. Yellow I think. CRS setting in. I could post pix if you like. BTW, since you are adding things to your sig and screwing with me...its "I" before "E" except after "C" (view):p Bob:D

SouthernNights
09-13-2009, 01:39 PM
Larry, did I not see that you have a GMC or are you screwing with me......... you are adding things to your sig and screwing with me...its "I" before "C" except after "C" (view):p Bob:D
:D:D:D


Sorry Bob couldnt resist. I do have a GMC but keep forgetting to add. Thanks for the reminder.

I will check for the wires you mentioned. and roof mounted flood/backup lights are difinatley in the near future. I am also going to pull one for a camera.

I think I read where you work at a GM dealer. If you have access to service bulletins, would you see if there is one on electric door locks locking by themselves?

Bob&Patty
09-13-2009, 07:07 PM
Larry, yes I still do..part time. When you say lock by themselves. Need to know more info..when..where...how. I will be glad the look into it for you. Just for grins and giggles.....does your truck have an aftermarket alarm installed??? BTW, "VEIW" is spelled "VIEW":D:D:D:D:D:D Bob:D

SouthernNights
09-13-2009, 07:31 PM
Mi truc loks the dowrs awl bi temselfs weater the ki is en th swit ar knot. dowr could bee open ar knot.
Know alrm-1st tym eye had 2 git onstar 2 open doar. sense then, it will lok with winder opin or shut.
it kan bee 5 minuts afdter shuttin truk off or 30 minuts.

rick_debbie_gallant
09-13-2009, 07:55 PM
Larry, did I not see that you have a GMC or are you screwing with me. If you look under the rear of the your truck you will see a square connector. It should have 4 seperate connectors in it. If its like mine there should be 2 lite blue wires in 2 seperate connectors. they are the turn bulb wires. I spliced in a wire from each and installed a seperate 4 prong trailer connector by the Horn wiring plug (7 wire). Ran the wires up through the front cover under the bedroom. If you take the front compartment door latch (hold open) and the pin box trim off you can pull the wires through with 2 coat hangers or a long stiff wire. Then I ran them inside the wire harness that runs down each side. You will have to remove the screws from the lower skirting to run the wires. I did use split tube to protect the wires. You might want the run a wire for back up lites while you running wires. Inside of the electrical box on the pin box there is a blunt cut wire for back up lites. Yellow I think. CRS setting in. I could post pix if you like. BTW, since you are adding things to your sig and screwing with me...its "I" before "C" except after "C" (view):p Bob:D


ware i wnt to schol it waz "I" b4 ""E"" except after "C"........:rolleyes::cool::p

Bob&Patty
09-13-2009, 09:44 PM
HUH?????????:confused: m swry i sad aniting. bu dat spans wat hapenz. wif dat i ken ce wat mit cuas dat. bo

rick_debbie_gallant
09-13-2009, 10:30 PM
!!!!:D!!!!

boatto5er
09-14-2009, 07:38 AM
Alright! Back to school for everybody:eek:.

SouthernNights
09-14-2009, 11:38 AM
Larry,
Nice mod you made and thank you for sharing. Let us know if you end up getting that molded rear cap. Will be interesting to see how much insulation was really there to begin with. Well I went back to lookat your pictures and realized you would have to give up your rear bumper and cool wagon carrier if you added the molded rear cap. Maybe not worth it.

Mark

Thank you. I did find insulation at the top behind the marker lights.

If I did put on the rear cap, all I have to do is extend the rear bumper support tubes about 8". The wagon carrier is not welded to the tubes but rather bolts "around" the bumper support tubes.
The factory did tell me the cap is just that-a cap. Rear exterior wall is there so it really can't be that big of project-just afraid what they would charge for just the cap:eek:

And on another note-I finished 8th grade twice which gives me a 16th grade education Gus:p

Bob&Patty
09-14-2009, 04:44 PM
Larry, I checked on your issue. We have never had that problem at our dealer. I talked to all 4 15A techs and they seem to think that there might be a "logic-lock" in the BCM. The On-Star should not have caused what is happening. Might take it to your dealer and have them check it out. We even did a bulletin search....nothing there. So there you have it. Bob:D PS...I finished 8th,9th and 10th.......does that make 27 years????????????????????????:confused:

SouthernNights
09-14-2009, 05:16 PM
Thanks Bob for your effort. It really is a strange problem. I am used to leaving my keys in the truck going from jobsite to jobsite. It locked twice with the keys in the ignition. At least the second time the window was open. Twice after that with the keys in my pocket. Weird.

What is a "logic-lock"?

Bob&Patty-DW
09-14-2009, 09:31 PM
Larry, logic-lock is when a module thinks it knows better than you what you want it to do. Sometimes it wont reprogram to get rid of it. Then it will have to be replaced and then reprogramed to your VIN#. Need to get it back to the dealer. Bob:D PS my putor took a dive this afternoon....using pattys.

jimtoo
09-14-2009, 10:34 PM
Larry,,,, Bob:D PS my putor took a dive this afternoon....using pattys.


Hmmmnnnn,,, no wonder it types so good and looks so good and smells better.