Extra 30 amp plug

Bob&Patty

Founders of SoCal Chapter
I would like to add a 30 amp plug into the 110V system. I was thinking close to the front of the Horn, maybe on the front overhang. I would like to have a place to plug in our gennie while parked in a rest stop or staying overnite at a Flying J. It's just a PITA to either take the gennie out of the TV or run a extension cord the rear of the coach.

I have found a 30 amp twist lock plugin like the 50 amp. Thanks JB. I am really not that sure where I should connect the wire harness to. The convertor or do I have connect it to the breaker panel in the coach. Also will 10-2 work or should I use 8 gauge wire. I would prefer to use stranded wire because it's more flexable. Any advise would really be helpful.
 

branson4020

Icantre Member
Are you going to also use an auto transfer switch for safety? I understand you will "never" use it when you have hook-ups.....
But what's to keep the mail prongs of that 30A plug from being hot when you are plugged in to shore power?
 

Bob&Patty

Founders of SoCal Chapter
Transfer switch....thats an idea. Never thought of that although the 30 amp plug has a cover on it like the 50 amp does.
 

2010augusta

Well-known member
I second the use of an auto transfer switch. It would make the installation of the extra plug much safer and straight forward. You might have to use a 50 amp ATS, and split the 30 amp wire coming in just before the ATS.
 

JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
Would he be advised to connect this new input to the breaker panel, rather than directly to the converter, as he mentioned in his first post? In my rig, the converter is plugged into a 120V outlet off the breaker panel. If it is somehow connected only to the converter, then only his 12V systems will work. And yes, a transfer switch or some form of isolation is needed to segregate the generator power from the shore power input. And vice versa if you connect to shore power, you don't want the front input backfed. As for the wire size, you could actually use a 30A shore power cord for the wiring and be sure it would handle the load, and still be flexible enough to route fairly easily. Take down the nomenclature printed on your shore cord and find an electrical supply company. They may be able to sell you the length of rubber encased cord you need to do the job, rather than buying and chopping up a shore power cord.

Edit: My idea about using the cord was to cut the ends off and use it for the hardwired connection between the plug and transfer switch.
 
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lwmcguir

Well-known member
We have a 30 amp female receptacle beside the auto transfer switch. We don't have a generator installed yet and use the compartment for lawn chairs and such. Even without the transfer switch the female plug would be as safe as any other outlet if you installed fuse's or a circuit breaker. We use short adapter (a two ended male cord) to connect. Works great. I would want the receptacle installed inside somewhere as the front end catches a lot of grit and grime from the road.
 

lwmcguir

Well-known member
I guess it could be if you started up the generator and hang on to it. It is just a short adapter used inside the compartment. Same thing can happen when you plug in your coach to the pillar if you happen to let you fingers slip into and on a contact. What would the fix be Bob in your opinion? If there is a better way I will sure listen.
 

branson4020

Icantre Member
A female receptacle is intended to supply current, not be fed current. That's why the shore power connection to your rig is a recessed male plug. That's the "better way."
 

lwmcguir

Well-known member
If we convert another one I think I will try your idea and go with the recessed male than I can use the standard cord. At the time I had the 30 amp recessed female with the cover so that is what it is. TKS
 

jbeletti

Well-known member
Bob,

I've seen a few class 8 tractors used for pulling Tetons and other big 5ers where they keep their gen on the bed of the truck. On the RV, they use a Marinco receptacle mounted in a bracket that is welded or bolted to the pin box, usually on the back side so driving rain does not get into it.

Jim
 

porthole

Retired
Bob - I think the only way you can go without having a problem is using an auto transfer switch.
You do not want the 50 amp receptacle hot when you have your generator plugged in or the oposite
 

Bob&Patty

Founders of SoCal Chapter
OK...a transfer switch it is. Now the other thought I had was to install a 110V plug in the front compartment. That way I could run my compressor either with the genne or the 50 amp shore power. The compressor stays in the front compartment. So it seems to me that I need to find a 110V line that is fed by both 30 and 50 amp circuits. Right?? Sounds kinda kinky to me.
 

porthole

Retired
Use a 50 amp transfer switch.
Use a 50 amp bulkhead receptacle (can be pricey, especially if you go stainless)

Use what ever extension cord male end you want (house or generator)

Wire the female end with a 50 amp plug with a jumper between the 2 hot legs. That will give 30 (or 20 or 15 depending on your source) amps total across your 50 amp connector.

You would be basically doing the same same that buying the pre-made dog bone adapters are doing.

Using a 50 amp bulkhead connector gives you the option of plugging in the big cord at the front of the trailer should you ever need too.

And your auto transfer switch will keep both bulkhead inputs from being hot at the same time.

And don't forget - "electricity is not a hobby"
 

Bob&Patty

Founders of SoCal Chapter
Duane, thanks, I love to let all the smoke out of the wires. Im not afraid of 110V. I do most of my own home wiring. Just a little unsure on the Horn of how it was done. I have had to repair some wiring on it.
 

navyAZ1

Well-known member
Just curious, our dealer (who is now out of business) stated that our BH has a wiring harness in the front storage area that is intended for a generator if I were to decide to install a generator, is this a fact? If it is I would think you could install your plug and attach it to this wiring harness. I don't know if this is true but I remember being told this, so thought it might be worth checking into. Good Luck and let me know if this is the case, because I carry a generator in a special box in the bed of the truck and if I could do the same that would be great.

Ron
 

branson4020

Icantre Member
If you have the wiring harness, then you also have the transfer switch, remote start switch/hour meter and sheet metal enclosure for the generator. It's all part of the gen prep package from the factory
 

ct0218

Well-known member
Are you sure about the transfer switch being included in the generator prep package? I ordered the package, but have yet to see the transfer switch anywhere. Where would it be located? I had always assumed it included everything except the transfer switch since I have never located one.
 
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