Torque Specs. with neverfail bushings

I have replaced my OE bushing with the Never Fail bushings..My question is, how much torque for the spring shackle?
Can't seem to find the specifications anywhere..and when I do they are all over the lot...anywhere from 35# to 114#...????

Larry

wingfoot said:

I have replaced my OE bushing with the Never Fail bushings..My question is, how much torque for the spring shackle?
Can't seem to find the specifications anywhere..and when I do they are all over the lot...anywhere from 35# to 114#...????

Larry

Click to expand...

I've been wondering the same thing. Would be nice to know before I tackle the install. But what is the thread shank diameter and is there a marking of some kind on the bolt head? Might be able to look up the maximum torque rating for the bolt using that.

JohnDar said:

I've been wondering the same thing. Would be nice to know before I tackle the install. But what is the thread shank diameter and is there a marking of some kind on the bolt head? Might be able to look up the maximum torque rating for the bolt using that.

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John, there is no marking on the bolts. They are 11/16's. Word of caution...when you install the bolts, the heads of the bolts are serrated just like studs on a brake drum. Be sure the serrations/head of the bolt is flush with the bracket. I you don't, you will not be able to torque the nuts because the bolt will just spin.
Here are some torque spec.s unfortunately the 11/16th is not shown...

Larry

Well John, looks like I answered my question. Here is a screen shot from Lippert's site..Being that I don't put much credence in Lippert's information sometimes..I guess I'll have to this time.

Those bolts have an 11/16ths hex head. They're shoulder bolts with an unthreaded 9/16ths shaft and a 7/16-20 threaded portion. I just did mine a couple of weeks ago. For torque value, the threaded portion is what matters. 35-40 lb-ft should be plenty. Its not really critical as long as the nuts don't fall off. I didn't even bother to break out the torque wrench for mine.

Torque isn't the big factor. The nuts are the non-loosening type, either punched or out of round. Having said that, when I got ready to put on my new axle one nut was gone. I shudder to think.

branson4020 said:

Those bolts have an 11/16ths hex head. They're shoulder bolts with an unthreaded 9/16ths shaft and a 7/16-20 threaded portion. I just did mine a couple of weeks ago. For torque value, the threaded portion is what matters. 35-40 lb-ft should be plenty. Its not really critical as long as the nuts don't fall off. I didn't even bother to break out the torque wrench for mine.

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I torqued mine to 60# and let um bump...

In an application that requires a specific torque the bolt can't do its job unless it is torqued. The bolt should be stretched a certain amount determined by the class and size of the bolt. If it's not stretched it won't provide the necessary clamping force to hold the parts together. Over tightening might stretch the bolt beyond it elastic limit and it might fatigue and fail. In applications like suspension I always use the blue lock tight. Red lock tight has to be heated to be removed and is not usually necessary except in specific applications.

TeJay

TeJay said:

In an application that requires a specific torque the bolt can't do its job unless it is torqued. The bolt should be stretched a certain amount determined by the class and size of the bolt. If it's not stretched it won't provide the necessary clamping force to hold the parts together. Over tightening might stretch the bolt beyond it elastic limit and it might fatigue and fail. In applications like suspension I always use the blue lock tight. Red lock tight has to be heated to be removed and is not usually necessary except in specific applications.

TeJay

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Sounds like a plan. 60 ft-lbs. and blue Loctite.

May add that because it is a stepped bolt it is weaker then a regular thread size bolt. And torquing will not stretch the bolt untill the weak point breaks, and the weak point is at the step. Bigger the step weaker the bolt. I would stay at abot 60% nominal torque required. I use new nuts if I feel light load when starting a nut on existng bolts. Even better use new bolts and nuts. When loctite let's go it will turn easier.

Bob is the only one that has it right about tightening the bolts. You dont need to torque them as all you will do is pull the light weight spring hangers into contacting the spring or bushing. That isnt the plan here at all. If the serrations are drawn into the hanger contacting it and the nut is contacting the hanger, snug it up. The nuts are the jam type so unless you screw them up or use old ones they should hold. I use locktite as a safety. The goal isnt to bind the hanger, bushing, and spring. The goal is to allow the bushing to rotate on the bolt so that you change out the bolt over time. If you keep the coach long enough you will change the bushing as well but nothing like the nylon cheapies. You dont want to bind or bend the light weight spring hangers. Having said that if you are a Gorilla then maybe you do need a torque wrench to avoid over snugging them.

Duly noted.