We have a 2014 Bighorn 3570RS. On the front of the unit where the front body panel is attached (this part has the door for the storage compartment where a generator can go) the daylight shines brightly. The first time we towed in the rain, quite a bit of water got in the compartment. Should it fit tight? There does not seem to be any play or room to make a tighter fit. Everything seems tight. What would be the best thing to use to seal the gaps? My second question is I have noticed a small white plastic elbow under each main slide. The first time I retracted the left side a bunch of water came out of it. What are they for? 3rd. In the front storage compartment is a large crank type of tool. It has a hole drilled through the end of it. What is it for and should there be something in it?
A couple of questions
- Thread starter tljack
- Start date
ParkIt
Well-known member
The gaps are for ventilation for a generator, unless you never plan to use one up there you can block off the gaps with hard styrofoam while on the road. That way you can still have the option of taking them out if it does get damp from a hard rain tow or trade in down the road.
No idea but I'm curious to know myself. Water collection from the roof of the slide down instead of sitting on top of it? (that would be kinda awesome)
If it's long with a short crank angle it could be for your angled stabilizers in the back, other than that I can only think its for a jack to change a tire. If you are all hydraulic then it might have been put there by accident, the change on some units from a 6 point level up system may still show that part should be with that unit even though it doesn't have the angled levelers in the back.
ParkIt
Well-known member
Ours has just one for both the rear stabilizers (override the electric motor if it goes) and tire...of which I forgot about. The front ones have fitting for a cordless drill, we wouldn't be able to use the one it came with on them. Those would be a pita to do with a hand crank though DH would take off his shirt and try to act all Gorilla if we had to.
I'd watch just for support. I think that is in the whole marriage contract thingie.
JohnDar
Prolifically Gabby Member
The older electric jacks, at least on my model, have a hole above the hydraulic pump that you would insert a crank rod to manually operate the front jacks. Not to be confused with the hex bit fitting on the pump motor. If I wasn't lazing by a campfire and playing with my phone, I'd post a photo of it.
JohnDar
Prolifically Gabby Member
OK. Amy, I'll resist being a wiseacre about playing with things and conversing with you 
. But, with the original single motor electric front jacks, there was a hole in the wall of the hydraulic compartment that had the manual fitting for the DS jack. Having changed to the Ground Control system, it's now just a hole in the wall.
. But, with the original single motor electric front jacks, there was a hole in the wall of the hydraulic compartment that had the manual fitting for the DS jack. Having changed to the Ground Control system, it's now just a hole in the wall.
JohnDar
Prolifically Gabby Member
Just so you know I'm not using recreational pharmaceuticals, here's a photo of the manual jack crank fitting.
View attachment 25173
View attachment 25173
ParkIt
Well-known member
Then it probably is for the tire, always good to have a drill with a flex end just in case.
Ha! You got pictures for me so I take it backOK. Amy, I'll resist being a wiseacre about playing with things and conversing with you
For some reason we only have (had?) the one override in the front electric legs. Once the 2nd shop got a hold of it they put in a part by the hydraulic pump so we can use it from there if need be and re-secured the pump properly - it was askew on delivery from factory, could barely read the part numbers it was so crammed in wonky. All sorted out now, hope I never have to use it though.
When MT Pockets has gone back to Fill 'er Up a 4pt level up is getting put on.
JohnDar
Prolifically Gabby Member
Take a look at the spare tire crank mechanism. On mine, the fitting looks like the photo and the crank handle has a large round end with notches that slips over it and engages the pin. This was the same rod for the front electric jacks. The crank rod may have a yellow dichromate finish on it. The other rod for the rear stabilizers was just a slot cut in the end of the rod (second photo) that fits into the fitting on the rear stabilizers (third photo).
Earlier, I misspoke about the fittings and rods. The one for the spare was also used for the front jacks. The other slotted rod was only for the rear stabilizer.
View attachment 25216View attachment 25217View attachment 25218
Earlier, I misspoke about the fittings and rods. The one for the spare was also used for the front jacks. The other slotted rod was only for the rear stabilizer.
View attachment 25216View attachment 25217View attachment 25218
JohnDar
Prolifically Gabby Member
It helps to lower and raise the spare maybe once a season just to make sure the mechanism doesn't seize. But you still have to crawl underneath if you really need to use the spare.
The spare tire location is the one thing I do not like about my Big Horn. It is a pain to take off and put back on. I have to remove it to back my 5th wheel onto the RV pad beside my house because the driveway is uphill from the street. The spare would strike the ground if I left it on, so I have a lot of "practice removing and installing the spare. I am going to move somewhere that is flat.
