Titan Disc Brake Conversion DIY Install

billyjoeraybob

South Carolina Chapter Leaders-Retired
Last weekend LDuguay and I installed the Titan Disc Brake system on his Big Country. We were very impressed with the kit provided by Ron Russell(Titanguy on the forum) of Performance Trailer Braking www.performancetrailerbraking.com Ron presented a seminar on this system that was very well received at our recent SC Chapter Rally. He mentioned that when he supplies a kit, it comes with everything you need to install with the exception of bearing grease and thread locker. When we opened the kit, this was absolutely the case. All of the components are very high quality and the system utilizes standard GM brake pads that are readily available at any auto parts store. This is our saga and is in no way meant to be a step by step installation guide.



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After Lance had the pleasure of backing his Big Country into my tight residential driveway, we began preparing the camper for the install. We left the rig hitched to the truck and manually extended his LevelUps to stabilize the rig. Next we jacked up each axle with a floor jack to get the tires off of the ground. The axles were then supported by jack stands.


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Then the fun began! All of the lugs were either seized or torqued to about 300 ft/lbs. My impact wrench would not even budge them. Lance had to take a breaker bar and stand and bounce on it to break the lug nuts free. Well that added about an hour to the job.
Next I removed the old drums, electric brakes, backing plates, and studs that secured the backing plates. This got us down to the spindles which were cleaned and prepped to install the new rotors. The only parts that were retained were the castle nut, washer, and castle nut retainer. All other parts are provided in the kit.


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While I was doing this Lance was packing the new wheel bearings that were supplied in the kit. He taught this old shade tree mechanic a new trick. He wore disposable gloves while packing them and as he finished one he would pull the glove off inside out keeping the freshly packed bearing inside the glove preventing dirt from getting in it.
Next we installed all the new parts. First we had to install the new caliper mounting plate. This is secured to the axle using grade 8 bolts in the same holes where we knocked out the old backing plate studs. I was a little concerned with the torque spec so Lance gave Ron a call. Ron confirmed (on a Saturday no less) the 50 ft/lb spec. Now that is customer service!!! We then put the inner bearings and grease seals in the new rotors and installed the rotors. This is very straight forward and done exactly like you would on any rotor that did not have sealed bearings. The kit comes with new clear plastic grease caps, that required another call to Ron to confirm how tight they should be screwed in. A little past hand tight was his response. Thanks again Ron!!!!


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Now it was time to install the calipers and brake pads. The calipers are very well made and installed with no issues on 3 of the 4. We did put some blue thread locker on these mounting bolts. For some reason the fouth caliper just wasn’t seated properly. Upon inspection, I found that I had snagged the grease seal when installing that rotor and the small spring that helps to keep the rubber seal against the spindle had come out and was preventing the rotor from seating. Fun, fun, fun! Try to find a new double lip seal on Saturday afternoon after the NAPA warehouse has closed. Fortunately, Marcus at NAPA went over and beyond and sourced us one at O’Reillys down the street. 3 hrs later we are back at it.

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Lance’s Big Country had an awesome place to mount the electric over hydraulic actuator. His battery compartment is door side, where you would normally find propane storage. He mounted the actuator while I wired the connections in the junction box on the pin box.

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He proceeded to run the brake lines from the actuator to the calipers. No flaring or cutting of lines required. They are part of the kit. Thanks Ron!!! I completed the wiring and testing of the actuator. We had some of wire loom left over from the wiring and just for some added protection we put it over the rubber brake lines at each caliper. We then added some DOT 4 and bled the system using the breakaway switch to activate the actuator.


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Finally after 12 hrs we were able to take a test drive. WooHoo Lance has brakes again!!!!
I just want to say that if you are looking for a disc brake conversion for your rig you absolutely can not go wrong with the Titan products or Ron Russell of Performance Trailer Braking. Ron also has a team of installers that will do your install. Reach out to Ron Titanguy on the forum. www.performancetrailerbraking.com
 
Last edited:

lduguay

Past North Carolina Chapter Leader
Hey Bill,

DITTO to what you said!! Great system and it IS good to have REAL brakes!!!!! Especially since one of the electrics broke giving me the "OVERLOAD NO BRAKES" message coming down the mountain from the Southeast Region Rally😬!

Now as to my "contribution" on this job, my role was "goffer boy" as well as on site supervisor in charge of grease! It is good to have experts like the SC Chapter President to oversee/DO the job! Bill, a BIG THANK YOU for helping/DOING my brakes on your Saturday off!!

Lance

PS. Ron, (TitanGuy), THANK YOU for fielding all of my novice questions...you were AWESOME!!
 

rhodies1

Well-known member
Last weekend LDuguay and I installed the Titan Disc Brake system on his Big Country. We were very impressed with the kit provided by Ron Russell(Titanguy on the forum) of Performance Trailer Braking. Ron presented a seminar on this system that was very well received at our recent SC Chapter Rally. He mentioned that when he supplies a kit, it comes with everything you need to install with the exception of bearing grease and thread locker. When we opened the kit, this was absolutely the case. All of the components are very high quality and the system utilizes standard GM brake pads that are readily available at any auto parts store. This is our saga and is in no way meant to be a step by step installation guide.



View attachment 45554View attachment 45555

After Lance had the pleasure of backing his Big Country into my tight residential driveway, we began preparing the camper for the install. We left the rig hitched to the truck and manually extended his LevelUps to stabilize the rig. Next we jacked up each axle with a floor jack to get the tires off of the ground. The axles were then supported by jack stands.


View attachment 45563View attachment 45564

Then the fun began! All of the lugs were either seized or torqued to about 300 ft/lbs. My impact wrench would not even budge them. Lance had to take a breaker bar and stand and bounce on it to break the lug nuts free. Well that added about an hour to the job.
Next I removed the old drums, electric brakes, backing plates, and studs that secured the backing plates. This got us down to the spindles which were cleaned and prepped to install the new rotors. The only parts that were retained were the castle nut, washer, and castle nut retainer. All other parts are provided in the kit.


View attachment 45556View attachment 45557View attachment 45558

While I was doing this Lance was packing the new wheel bearings that were supplied in the kit. He taught this old shade tree mechanic a new trick. He wore disposable gloves while packing them and as he finished one he would pull the glove off inside out keeping the freshly packed bearing inside the glove preventing dirt from getting in it.
Next we installed all the new parts. First we had to install the new caliper mounting plate. This is secured to the axle using grade 8 bolts in the same holes where we knocked out the old backing plate studs. I was a little concerned with the torque spec so Lance gave Ron a call. Ron confirmed (on a Saturday no less) the 50 ft/lb spec. Now that is customer service!!! We then put the inner bearings and grease seals in the new rotors and installed the rotors. This is very straight forward and done exactly like you would on any rotor that did not have sealed bearings. The kit comes with new clear plastic grease caps, that required another call to Ron to confirm how tight they should be screwed in. A little past hand tight was his response. Thanks again Ron!!!!


View attachment 45559View attachment 45560View attachment 45561View attachment 45562

Now it was time to install the calipers and brake pads. The calipers are very well made and installed with no issues on 3 of the 4. We did put some blue thread locker on these mounting bolts. For some reason the fouth caliper just wasn’t seated properly. Upon inspection, I found that I had snagged the grease seal when installing that rotor and the small spring that helps to keep the rubber seal against the spindle had come out and was preventing the rotor from seating. Fun, fun, fun! Try to find a new double lip seal on Saturday afternoon after the NAPA warehouse has closed. Fortunately, Marcus at NAPA went over and beyond and sourced us one at O’Reillys down the street. 3 hrs later we are back at it.

View attachment 45565View attachment 45566

Lance’s Big Country had an awesome place to mount the electric over hydraulic actuator. His battery compartment is door side, where you would normally find propane storage. He mounted the actuator while I wired the connections in the junction box on the pin box.

View attachment 45567View attachment 45568View attachment 45569

He proceeded to run the brake lines from the actuator to the calipers. No flaring or cutting of lines required. They are part of the kit. Thanks Ron!!! I completed the wiring and testing of the actuator. We had some of wire loom left over from the wiring and just for some added protection we put it over the rubber brake lines at each caliper. We then added some DOT 4 and bled the system using the breakaway switch to activate the actuator.


View attachment 45570View attachment 45571View attachment 45572View attachment 45573

Finally after 12 hrs we were took a test drive. WooHoo Lance has brakes again!!!!
I just want to say that if you are looking for a disc brake conversion for your rig you absolutely can not go wrong with the Titan products or Ron Russell of Performance Trailer Braking. Ron also has a team of installers that will do your install. Reach out to Ron Titanguy on the forum. www.performancetrailerbraking.com


Do do you mind telling us what the kit costs.
 

billyjoeraybob

South Carolina Chapter Leaders-Retired
This was from the SC Rally thread. It was posted by Titanguy(Ron Russell)

Disc Brake Update:

Dexter has announced a price increase effective 6/15/2016. I do not know how much at this time. Any orders placed from now thru the end of the Rally will be price protected.
The Rally price on 8 hole wheel applications is $2450 installed and the DIY Kit is $1650. I will not have my installers at the rally but they will be making a Southeast Install Trip mid-late May.

If you are seriously interested I would PM Titanguy and see what the current rate is. Regardless the price is going up on 6/15 so now would be the time to order. His website link is www.performancetrailerbraking.com


 

billyjoeraybob

South Carolina Chapter Leaders-Retired
Hey Bill,

DITTO to what you said!! Great system and it IS good to have REAL brakes!!!!! Especially since one of the electrics broke giving me the "OVERLOAD NO BRAKES" message coming down the mountain from the Southeast Region Rally!

Now as to my "contribution" on this job, my role was "goffer boy" as well as on site supervisor in charge of grease! It is good to have experts like the SC Chapter President to oversee/DO the job! Bill, a BIG THANK YOU for helping/DOING my brakes on your Saturday off!!

Lance

PS. Ron, (TitanGuy), THANK YOU for fielding all of my novice questions...you were AWESOME!!

Thanks for the kind words Lance! We worked really hard on a HOT and HUMID central SC day, but I had a blast. Not only did I get to do some mods on a Heartland, I got to spend the day with my friend. I really enjoyed it. Not to mention that CheapHeat is gonna feel really good when we hit the NC rally this fall!!! Safe travels my friend....
 

lduguay

Past North Carolina Chapter Leader
Bill, I do agree, we were a good team!!

Ron, (TitanGuy), you might be able to talk us into doing installs....we would only charge about $300 for the brake install and $3000.00 for wheel lug nut removal!!!! 😳
 

billyjoeraybob

South Carolina Chapter Leaders-Retired
Bill, I do agree, we were a good team!!

Ron, (TitanGuy), you might be able to talk us into doing installs....we would only charge about $300 for the brake install and $3000.00 for wheel lug nut removal!!!! 


I'm in.... get us a contract!!!!
 

Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn

Well-known member
Very nice work guy's.
I need to do this on my massive LM 365 it should be standard from factory on a 2 axle rig this big.

Bill do you think I could tackle this by myself?

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
 

billyjoeraybob

South Carolina Chapter Leaders-Retired
Very nice work guy's.
I need to do this on my massive LM 365 it should be standard from factory on a 2 axle rig this big.

Bill do you think I could tackle this by myself?

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
Not a problem for you. Electrical would be a nit for you. If you have ever repacked the bearings on a car with disc brakes then you have the skills required

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk
 

Bones

Well-known member
I really like the idea of disc brakes. I have had quite a few times where I am standing on my brake pedal trying to stop because someone decided to pass me and bam I'm stopping in front of you type of stuff.
 

kdubinwa

Well-known member
Curious where you were able to find room to snake the wiring up to the junction box at the king pin? On my Bighorn 3160EL I used a 1/8" flat wire snake and it met resistance heading aft from the junction box under the front cap no matter what angle I tried... I was just poking around to determine what access was available.
 

MagnoliaTom

Well-known member
Bill, does your truck have a stock trailer brake controller? Did it work? Or did you have to go with a P3?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

cookie

Administrator
Staff member
Curious where you were able to find room to snake the wiring up to the junction box at the king pin? On my Bighorn 3160EL I used a 1/8" flat wire snake and it met resistance heading aft from the junction box under the front cap no matter what angle I tried... I was just poking around to determine what access was available.
FYI, when I did mine I used the two wire cable already in use for the electric brakes. I just re-purposed their intended use.
In my particular floor plan all of the wires from the pin box ran in a raceway right above the area where I installed the actuator.
In the square electrical box under the pin box there is a gray sheathed cable with two wires in it. White and blue. I used the blue as the brake wire to the actuator and the white, which was the neutral to the magnet, was used as the power from the breakaway switch.
This worked for me but may not be for everyone. Just another idea.

Peace
Dave
 

RoadJunkie

Well-known member
Well, on my 2015 Ford Super Duty the hydraulic over electric mode is an option in one of the setup menus. What are the specifics on your controller? I know some earlier trucks need some sort of adapter.
 
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