I have a suburban SF-42 Q on my Landmark. It stopped working for a few days then started again...after a few days of normal operation it has stopped again. I checked the electrical connections to see if any were loose. I did not find any loose wires. The thermostat wire (blue) to the control board has power. There is no attempt at ignition or blower operation when thermostat is on. Any ideas or suggestions?
Heater quit
- Thread starter meagle
- Start date
Oregon_Camper
Well-known member
How long have you owned the RV...purchase new or used? I ask to find out if there is possible issues with prior owner.
Are all propane tanks full?
Are the batteries in good condition and fully charged?
Does this happen when on and off shore power?
Are all propane tanks full?
Are the batteries in good condition and fully charged?
Does this happen when on and off shore power?
cos
Member
If the wires are marked coming from the gas valve you can jump those out to see if the furnace works. If it does its more than likely a bad t stat
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Oregon_Camper
Well-known member
Thank you for the reply. I am the original owner, the propane tanks are full, and the batteries are fully charged. It will not work with shore power or without it. I thought that it might be the circuit board, but I am certainly not an electronics expert. Although there is power/signal from the thermostat there is no attempt at ignition nor does the blower start.
cos
Member
Any chance you have a picture of how to do that? Would be a great thing to keep in my "....just in case" file.
Hey Oregon,
In my coach the wires come up to a main transfer control located in the main coach ac unit which when the heat turns on switches the ac fan on to help circulate the air. The 2 wires coming from the gas valve are the 2 in the yellow butt connectors. If you touch them together the furnace will turn on without the t stat. Im thinking yours may be similar?
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Poofam
Member
We had kind of the same problem on a 16 Charlston , it wouldn't turn on. Our problem was the main power feed to the heater from the fuse box was spliced and a crimp cap was lose. So to test if that's it see if you have power to the heater from the fuse box.
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Thank you. I checked at the fuse box. I will locate the hot wire coming to the unit and check at the end point for power. I did check the thermostat wires at the furnace and it had power. I spoke to one technician that said that it sounded like the circuit board, but I am skeptical since it worked after traveling for days then went out again.
danemayer
Well-known member
Intermittent failures can be the board. A bad solder joint for example.
I am going to replace the circuit board. From what I have read it seems logical. One repair site reported that many RV repair shops have a machine that can check the circuit board if brought in. I am going to call a few shops to see if that is the case. If so I will remove the board and bring it in to have it checked. I leave for a trip this Wednesday to Utah for some biking and hiking with friends. I will remove the board once I get back and hopefully get it working again. Also, there were others experiencing the same problem who are replacing the board with an aftermarket one from Dino. Many are saying it is a better product. Have you heard of others replacing the OEM with an aftermarket one?
Roller4tan
Well-known member
When my furnace quit, the relay on the board would not turn the fan on, even tho there was power to the relay. I replaced it with the Dino board and have no problems for over a year.
Roller4tan
Well-known member
Did the replacement myself, tight quarters tho, as I did not remove the furnace.
There is a sail switch in the blower section, that should be where your problem is. Mine did the same thing
I've read that it you replace the board you should also replace the sail switch. I am going to check with different RV shops to see if they can test the circuit board if I bring it in. If it is bad I will replace it and put on a new sail switch at the same time. If the board is OK then I will look at the sail switch as the next possible problem. Thank you for your response. Even though it is frustrating when something breaks/malfunctions it is fun to learn a new system and how to repair it.
danemayer
Well-known member
The purpose of the sail switch is to close the circuit powering ignition after the blower gets up to speed. If the blower doesn't run at all, it's not the fault of the sail switch.
Just a note to give a final update...After returning from my trip to Utah I removed the heater and circuit board. I took the circuit board to Triple A RV in Medford, Oregon who tested it free of charge. The board was bad so I purchased a new board made by Dino Industries from Triple A. I installed the board and then the furnace. I am happy to say that it worked perfectly!
On the way back from Utah I spent the night in Ely, NV., the temperature that night was 23! I sure missed the heater that night. Thank you to all who gave advice.
On the way back from Utah I spent the night in Ely, NV., the temperature that night was 23! I sure missed the heater that night. Thank you to all who gave advice.
I couldn't believe you were going to Utah without a without a working furnace.
carl.swoyer
Well-known member
Did you check your fuse on the panel
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