Hello everyone,
I have a very sticky cable gate valve that I need to replace and while inspecting I found out that I have a tank sag issue that I need to fix as well. I spent yesterday taking the plywood off so I could get in there easily and have a good look at everything. I saw a fair amount of surface rust and the encapsulated insulation was wet. So I decided to make a project out of it and do everything at one time. I threw away all the insulation and washed down the framing in the belly. once that was done filled all gaps with spray foam and even above the frame to help stop temperature transfer. I also sprayed rust killer and then painted. Now the belly is ready for new plywood,vapor barrier,"bubble insulation" and encapsulated fiberglass. I am also thinking of putting 2" foam board in and around the I-beam and the spray foam around it as well. Ive delt with frozen pipes and tanks before and just want to do my best to keep the cold out. Im going to replace the old cable valve as soon as it gets delivered and while looking at the valve and the sagging front shower tank I noticed that the sag is kind of bad. Once I put the new plywood in place ( 2 1/2x4x8 sheets instead of the one giant sheet they have ) I plan on using 3 pieces of 2" angle iron to hold the tank up. My question is this... after i put the new plywood back and support the tank with the angle iron it will then raise the tank belly but the heater pad on the bottom will then be in contact with the plywood and bubble wrap. Do the heater pads need clearance or will being in contact burn them out? Also do any of you have any experience with adding extra insulation to the perimeter "walls" of the belly?
Thanks in advance~
I have a very sticky cable gate valve that I need to replace and while inspecting I found out that I have a tank sag issue that I need to fix as well. I spent yesterday taking the plywood off so I could get in there easily and have a good look at everything. I saw a fair amount of surface rust and the encapsulated insulation was wet. So I decided to make a project out of it and do everything at one time. I threw away all the insulation and washed down the framing in the belly. once that was done filled all gaps with spray foam and even above the frame to help stop temperature transfer. I also sprayed rust killer and then painted. Now the belly is ready for new plywood,vapor barrier,"bubble insulation" and encapsulated fiberglass. I am also thinking of putting 2" foam board in and around the I-beam and the spray foam around it as well. Ive delt with frozen pipes and tanks before and just want to do my best to keep the cold out. Im going to replace the old cable valve as soon as it gets delivered and while looking at the valve and the sagging front shower tank I noticed that the sag is kind of bad. Once I put the new plywood in place ( 2 1/2x4x8 sheets instead of the one giant sheet they have ) I plan on using 3 pieces of 2" angle iron to hold the tank up. My question is this... after i put the new plywood back and support the tank with the angle iron it will then raise the tank belly but the heater pad on the bottom will then be in contact with the plywood and bubble wrap. Do the heater pads need clearance or will being in contact burn them out? Also do any of you have any experience with adding extra insulation to the perimeter "walls" of the belly?
Thanks in advance~