I like many others was having a problem with refer getting warm 50+ when in the 80s, I took it to the dealer that sold it and started the process, they trouble shot it as a defective cooling unit, changed under warranty, however the shop foreman told me that the manufacture, DOMETIC did noy use the thermal transfer gel between the cooling unit and the refer fins internal, he said the cooling unit was probably good and the cause was the gel, in the last four months it has worked great and no fans were ever installed, our outside temp is between 90 and 100 daily and the refer stays in the 30s. Sounds like DOMETIC needs to step up to the plate and play ball with us.
1350 would not cool, repaired and very successful.
- Thread starter bdunker
- Start date
Jim-JoyTeet
Member
Wow, gotta spend more time reviewing this stuff! I have a 2012 Landmark w/a 1350 as well a nd cannot get the fridge below 58 degrees -- yet the freezer ices up (including the icemaker within 24 hours of defrosting). I'll contact my dealer and try to get repairs started ASAP, especially since we live in this unit just about fulltime! I can't believe theissues I've had with this 5W in the 6 months since i bought it --would do a REAL checkout before releasing these high-cost, top-of-the-line units for sale!
Jim-JoyTeet
Member
Last sentence should read: Would think Heartland would do a REAL checkout before releasing ...
danemayer
Well-known member
If the freezer is frozen, and the refrigerator compartment is not cold, you most likely have an air leak. Check the left-hand door to the refrigerator compartment. There's a flap that rotates as the door is closed so that the gap between left and right doors is sealed. If that flap binds, you won't be able to keep the refrigerator cool. Another thing to check is the seals around the door. If they're malformed, they're leaking. You can use a dollar bill to check the seals. Close the door on the bill and pull it out. There should be drag on the bill. If it pulls out easily, there's an air gap.
ZNK
Well-known member
Did you complete a thorough PDI? We checked everying think in our rig before leaving the lot. We cooked in the microwaves ensured proper temperature in the fridge and freezer...heated up the oven, made sure there was hot water, etc. That was just the tip of the ice berg...I then thoroughly went through everything else to make sure things were good. If not I had them come fix it before we left.
Nothing can come from the factory perfect, things happen in shipment etc. Wires may lose connection, etc. Heartland is the first line of defense, we as consumers are the 2nd line of defense. We must take ownership and do proper inspections to protect ourselves.
rick_debbie_gallant
Well-known member
Friends of ours had the same problem with their refer (the iced up ice box and warm fridge.) They suffered through that for a year, they even took it back to the dealer for fixin but still the same thing. We tried the dollar bill thing and sure enough the dollar bill would not even stay trapped between the door and the seal. We got some of that white hollow door seal stuff ( you know for regular doors) and used that for a seal. And ya know what? It worked! Hear is the url for the stuff we used.
http://duckbrand.com/Products/weath...eatherstrip-seals.aspx?IDH=1297116&ProdType=1
http://duckbrand.com/Products/weath...eatherstrip-seals.aspx?IDH=1297116&ProdType=1
ChopperBill
Well-known member
How can you tell if this "transfer gel" is installed? Ours will stay in the 30's but with temps in the 3 digits lately I installed the baffle and the inside fan but never got a chance to try it yet.
SmokeyBare
Well-known member
Bill,
The Transfer gel or Thermo-mastic Caulk is applied to the cooling unit before it is installed on the back of the Cabinet of the Fridge. I replaced the cooling unit on our BigHorn a while back... is why I know. There is no real way unless the Cabinet is removed from the RV... and the Cooling Unit is removed from the Cabinet of the Fridge. If that is done... no matter what... more product will needed to be used to ensure a proper contact for cold transfer.
I decided to replace the cooling unit with a Re-built unit... their claim was that they improved the design Dometic had... I liked that idea since Dometic's unit was leaking.... sure didn't want to replace it with a risk the new unit could leak as quickly as the original one did.
The Transfer gel or Thermo-mastic Caulk is applied to the cooling unit before it is installed on the back of the Cabinet of the Fridge. I replaced the cooling unit on our BigHorn a while back... is why I know. There is no real way unless the Cabinet is removed from the RV... and the Cooling Unit is removed from the Cabinet of the Fridge. If that is done... no matter what... more product will needed to be used to ensure a proper contact for cold transfer.
I decided to replace the cooling unit with a Re-built unit... their claim was that they improved the design Dometic had... I liked that idea since Dometic's unit was leaking.... sure didn't want to replace it with a risk the new unit could leak as quickly as the original one did.
ChopperBill
Well-known member
I guess if it still cools in the 30's I will presume it is gelled. Cant try my baffle and fan mod because the spot in WY we were going to is on fire and we had to cancel our trip.
Similar threads
