2015 Cyclone 4000 refrigerator fuse issue

[Rangerman12]

Hi guys, Ive had my Cyclone 4000 for almost a year and a half. Rarely have issues but yesterday the 2 lights over my counter opposite the doors went out. My refrigerator also went out. All other lights work. The 5th fuse was blown. The breaker controlling it is labeled "conv." I'm guessing it's the converter. I tried replacing the fuse but it instantly pops. Grounds issue seems like the culprit. Amy suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thank you very much people.

 

[danemayer]

Hi Rangerman12,

You've left me a little confused by talking about fuses and breakers together. Are you saying that a disposable fuse blew and when you replace it with a new one, it immediately blows, AND the circuit breaker marked CONV also keeps tripping?

On the inside cover over the fuses, is there a label indicating the purpose of the blown fuse?

 

[Rangerman12]

No. When i flip the breaker marked "conv" the light for that particular fuse goes out all together. I then put a new fuse in it and flip the breaker on and the dose blew.

 

[danemayer]

No. When i flip the breaker marked "conv" the light for that particular fuse goes out all together. I then put a new fuse in it and flip the breaker on and the dose blew.

In the fuse panel, when a fuse is blown AND there's a load on the circuit, AND power is flowing to the fusebox, the LED comes on.

So when you turn off the circuit breaker marked CONV, and notice the light goes out, that tells me you've removed 12V DC from the fusebox. This means that you're not getting power from your battery. That's probably a completely separate problem, but you'll need to deal with that later.

The problem with the fuse blowing isn't due to the circuit breaker - it's just controlling the Power Converter which in turn supplies power to the fusebox.

To find the short that's blowing the fuse, you'll want to start under the slide out where the refrigerator is located. The wires are probably damaged where they enter the slideout floor, or where they bend when the slide is closed.

After correcting that problem, you'll want to get back to why the battery isn't supplying 12V DC when the converter is off. It's either dead, or the 12V DC mini-circuit breaker between battery and power converter is tripped. There's a row of 12V DC mini-circuit breakers near your battery. They're all connected by a copper buss bar and usually are covered by a red rubber boot. One breaker has a teeny tiny reset button. Very hard to see; sometimes easier to feel. You'll need to reset it. Note that your breakers/buss bar could look different from the one pictured.

I've attached a couple of pictures to help.

 

[Rangerman12]

FYI The fuse slot is labeled bedroom slide-out. Why would that effect the refrigerator?

 

[danemayer]

FYI The fuse slot is labeled bedroom slide-out. Why would that effect the refrigerator?

Do your bedroom lights work? Maybe it's labeled wrong. Or maybe the circuit is shared.

 

[Rangerman12]

Do your bedroom lights work? Maybe it's labeled wrong. Or maybe the circuit is shared.

All of the lights work in the slide out. The two lights over the stove do not work but everything else does. Also, the red light, in the access panel outside, behind the fridge for the 12v control is not on.

 

[danemayer]

All of the lights work in the slide out. The two lights over the stove do not work but everything else does. Also, the red light, in the access panel outside, behind the fridge for the 12v control is not on.

So that would suggest the label is wrong. Look at the wires under the slide.

 

[Rangerman12]

So that would suggest the label is wrong. Look at the wires under the slide.

The wires under the slide are well covered and appear to be in good shape. I can't see the wires under the camper because i have the winter package. I may have to remove that covering.

 

[danemayer]

There have been several other owners who have had shorts where the wires were contacting metal surfaces as the silde moved in and out, wearing the insulation where the wires entered the slide. That's what you're looking for. Also check for wires entering the bottom of the slide at the rear.

 

[Rangerman12]

Ok, so i found the short. It was in an LED light. Fixed and the fuse is good. Fridge power is on and i set it to ac and coolest temp but it's not getting cold. Any advise. The compressor is warm but no cold.

 

[danemayer]

Ok, so i found the short. It was in an LED light. Fixed and the fuse is good. Fridge power is on and i set it to ac and coolest temp but it's not getting cold. Any advise. The compressor is warm but no cold.

How long have you given it to get cold?

 

[Rangerman12]

How long have you given it to get cold?

So it's been a week. It's cool enough to store food but not cold. I have it set on 9 coldest but i use to have to keep it on 6 or my milk would freeze.

 

[danemayer]

Ok, so i found the short. It was in an LED light. Fixed and the fuse is good. Fridge power is on and i set it to ac and coolest temp but it's not getting cold. Any advise. The compressor is warm but no cold.

Residential refrigerators have compressors. RV gas absorption refrigerators (Dometic/Norcold) have electric heating elements and gas burners.

Just to be clear, I assume where you mentioned compressor, you meant you could feel the heat from the electric heating element.

It seems unlikely that a shorted LED somewhere would not only knock out power to your gas absorption refrigerator, but also somehow compromise the refrigerator's ability to cool.

So maybe something else.

Is the freezer cooling properly? If the freezer is ok and the refrigerator is not as cold as it used to get, you may have air intrusion into the refrigerator section. Two common causes are the flap between the doors not seating properly, and the drain hose on the outside losing it's end cap, in either case allowing warm air into the fridge.

A matching symptom of air intrusion would be excessive water/ice buildup on the cooling fins in the refrigerator compartment.