2018 Ram Recall

'Lil Guy'

Well-known member
Sorry for the delay in my answer. The fix from the dealer is to check the jam nut. If there is a gap or they can move it with 15 ft lbs of torque, the assembly needs to be repaced. If the nut doesn't move with the 15lbs of torque, they will torque it to 120 ft lbs (I think) and then spot weld the two nuts together. This is Rams fix for the issue.
 
Just watched this video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JPNigacNtMg
I guess a couple of tack welds would work and they could be easily removed with s grinder if any service needed to be done and re-welded. That is of course the nuts are still tight and the threads haven’t loosened up

i think I’ll put a glob of paint on the nut and sleeve and watch to see if it breaks on my ‘15 ram 3500

i thought i read it was only on the 4x4’s
 

danemayer

Well-known member
The attachment in post #13 has the exact instructions, including pictures, on what the dealer needs to do.
 

Romee

Member
Dan, there is a newer version with a couple changes.
after receiving My recall notice this weekend and reading posts here I decided to take a look at the drag link on our 2018 3500... the nuts were tight and did not move...however there are paint lines where the nuts were marked in the past by someone...get this...the lines don’t match up on the driver side nut..about a half inch off...
 

david-steph2018

Well-known member
I received my recall notice this past Thursday. Scheduled to go in April 24 to have the Ram checked. Dodge told me it should take about a hour to get it looked at and needed fix.
 

JWalker

Northeast Region Director-Retired
So how is everyone receiving their recall notice? Mail, email?? Is their a website to enter VIN# to check.

Thanks
 

RickL

Well-known member
I got my recall. It stated a fix was not available right now................

Same here. Seems to be a disconnect between the official company notice and what we are reading. I’m thinking dealerships are performing their “own” fixes as I have to believe that if it was an “official “ fix, the notice I received would have stated to contact the dealer for the necessary repairs.

I’ll stand by my original post in this thread that I’ll wait until they announce a “fix”. Welding doesn’t feel right to me, even if you can grind off the weld to break the nut free. Guess I’m old school. Fix it right the first time so you don’t incur higher costs down the road.
 

david-steph2018

Well-known member
Received our recall via the USPS. But I checked on a website:

[FONT=Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif]https://www.mopar.com/en-us/my-vehicle/recalls/search.html


[/FONT]
 

danemayer

Well-known member
2017-2018 models will be fixed first. 2013-2016 models will have to wait.

As of 3/19/2019, here's the schedule from the NHTSA website.
This will be a phased final mailing campaign with the below phases:
Phase 1 - 2017-2018 MY (on or about March 20, 2019);
Phase 2 - 2013-2016 MY (on or about December 1, 2019).

The Technical Service Bulletin, with instructions on how to check/repair, is in post #13 of this thread. I don't see it posted on the NHTSA site any longer. Not sure what that means.

Our 2014 is going in for service today. The dealer has advised that they may have to bill me because they do not have FCA authorization to charge against the recall at this time. If so, I will have to submit a reimbursement request to FCA. They also can not get the parts at this time, if a new drag link is needed. My goal is to get it repaired before towing 5,000 miles this summer, or at least stabilized until it can be fully corrected.
 

SNOKING

Well-known member
2017-2018 models will be fixed first. 2013-2016 models will have to wait.

As of 3/19/2019, here's the schedule from the NHTSA website.


The Technical Service Bulletin, with instructions on how to check/repair, is in post #13 of this thread. I don't see it posted on the NHTSA site any longer. Not sure what that means.

Our 2014 is going in for service today. The dealer has advised that they may have to bill me because they do not have FCA authorization to charge against the recall at this time. If so, I will have to submit a reimbursement request to FCA. They also can not get the parts at this time, if a new drag link is needed. My goal is to get it repaired before towing 5,000 miles this summer, or at least stabilized until it can be fully corrected.


Dan, you may have to go this route. https://www.dieselpowerproducts.com...VcrMhTJui1Tg3j94rdaLfRRoVp_hPdgsaAjRnEALw_wcB
 

JWalker

Northeast Region Director-Retired
My recall notice included the repair / check process...the dealer would be preforming

Though I have not received a recall notice yet. I stopped today and made an appointment. They stated the same evaluation/repair process.
 

sengli

Well-known member
To see if you are affected, go to the NTSA website and type in your VIN. We just received our notice in the mail today, but they said at this time their werent parts available for the fix at this moment.
Again, if they weld it, how will that be handled down the road...if an adjustment is needed.
 

SNOKING

Well-known member
To see if you are affected, go to the NTSA website and type in your VIN. We just received our notice in the mail today, but they said at this time their werent parts available for the fix at this moment.
Again, if they weld it, how will that be handled down the road...if an adjustment is needed.

Rumor has it that welding is an interim solution until they have parts. However they only appear to be welding 2017's and 2018's presently. Chris
 

2PawsRiver

Active Member
Have not received a notice, but browing this site, saw this thread, checked the link provided and have an appointment scheduled next week......thank you
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Rumor has it that welding is an interim solution until they have parts. However they only appear to be welding 2017's and 2018's presently. Chris
TSB - not a rumor. And the fix in the TSB is to either weld, or to replace the drag link, depending on the results of a couple of things that are supposed to be checked. Apparently, there are some cases where a weld is not regarded as sufficient, so parts are needed for those.

Work on 2017 and 2018s is authorized now. Docs on NHTSA indicate 2013-2016 models will be fixed starting in December.

I took my 2014 in on Tuesday because I found the drivers side jam nut was loose. They tightened it to the torque spec in the TSB, and said that indicated parts were not required, but they declined to weld it. They claim that the TSB may only apply to 2017 and 2018 models and they won't do more until FCA authorizes a specific action for 2014s. I've called RAM Customer Support and am waiting for their response on how to ensure 5-6,000 miles of safe towing beginning next month.
 

LBR

Well-known member
It's a shame that the old time practice of double-nutting is not accepted by today's standards anymore.....seems this could be an instance for that simple fix rather than tack-welding. Been many times I've used a second jam-nut for my own peace of mind/ safety reasons rather than drilling of components to safety-wire them.
 
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