3260EL Electrical Problem - Furnace - Light Switch and TV - Need your thoughts please

[Oregon_Camper]

... When I tried the red and black terminals where you showed, I set the multi-meter to DC, number to "20", touched both terminals and got a 0.0 reading. Batteries are set to on (disconnect switch is off), shore power is connected. Should I do something different?

You can hear the fan running, so the AC power is getting to converter.

But...if you are not seeing 13.4 volts coming out of the red/white wires, something is wrong, as that is your primary 12v power source for the entire trailer...battery is secondary.

Try this...physically disconnect your batteries from RV.

Then plug RV back in....do you have interior lights...can you open/close a slide out? If so, the converter is working and providing 12v to RV

 

[Oregon_Camper]

Greg...try not to update prior posts, just post new info at the end of the thread. I kinda lost track of you as I was looking for posts at the end of the thread.

 

[GregBassine]

Before I do that Jim, when I unplug shore power (running purely on DC now, yes?), I have interior lights and the slideout (living room and bedroom) both work using our remote. With that said, do you still want me to physically disconnect the two batteries (take all wires off the terminals) or would the battery disconnect switch suffice? When you said to "Plug RV back in", do you mean to reconnect wires to terminal or plug RV back into shore power?

With the volt meter test showing zero on those two terminals on the power converter, instead of 13.4 volts is that saying it is not providing power to the batteries? I guess I am a little confused there. Also, could I have had wrong settings on volt meter (had switch on "V" with a line and dots under it, and within that area moved the switch to 20). I await your reply Jim before I disconnect the batteries.

Greg

You can hear the fan running, so the AC power is getting to converter.

But...if you are not seeing 13.4 volts coming out of the red/white wires, something is wrong, as that is your primary 12v power source for the entire trailer...battery is secondary.

Try this...physically disconnect your batteries from RV.

Then plug RV back in....do you have interior lights...can you open/close a slide out? If so, the converter is working and providing 12v to RV

- - - Updated - - -

Sorry, will do.

Greg...try not to update prior posts, just post new info at the end of the thread. I kinda lost track of you as I was looking for posts at the end of the thread.

 

[Oregon_Camper]

Before I do that Jim, when I unplug shore power (running purely on DC now, yes?), I have interior lights and the slideout (living room and bedroom) both work using our remote. With that said, do you still want me to physically disconnect the two batteries (take all wires off the terminals) or would the battery disconnect switch suffice? When you said to "Plug RV back in", do you mean to reconnect wires to terminal or plug RV back into shore power?

OK...turn battery disconnect off. Unplug RV. Now, nothing should work...right?

Now, plug the RV back into AC power from your house....do the lights work now? If so, converter is ok. Then your problem is something else. At least we can eliminate one thing, assuming light work.

When you said to "Plug RV back in", do you mean to reconnect wires to terminal or plug RV back into shore power?

I meant connect to AC power from your home.

With the volt meter test showing zero on those two terminals on the power converter, instead of 13.4 volts is that saying it is not providing power to the batteries? I guess I am a little confused there. Also, could I have had wrong settings on volt meter (had switch on "V" with a line and dots under it, and within that area moved the switch to 20). I await your reply Jim before I disconnect the batteries.

You should have your system set like this image below.

You can test it by simply going to your battery and touch red wire from volt meter to positive terminal and black wire to negative terminal.

 

[GregBassine]

Unplugged everything; nothing works. Plugged shore power in; everything works. My voltmeter used the same as your photo shows, so should be ok there. Not sure why it showed zero though. I did test each battery, and they each read 13.13. Does that help? With that said, can we safely rule out the power converter (asking so I can put basement back together when appropriate)?

Greg

OK...turn battery disconnect off. Unplug RV. Now, nothing should work...right?

Now, plug the RV back into AC power from your house....do the lights work now? If so, converter is ok. Then your problem is something else. At least we can eliminate one thing, assuming light work.




I meant connect to AC power from your home.





You should have your system set like this image below.

You can test it by simply going to your battery and touch red wire from volt meter to positive terminal and black wire to negative terminal.

View attachment 54443

 

[Oregon_Camper]

I would say you can now put wall back up.

Did you ever call Matt? At this point the only thing left in my arsenal of things to test would be the over limit switch on the furnace. It should have a reset function, but perhaps that has failed. We could bypass the switch with some wire, just to test. If that is the issue, you could get one from Camping World or Curtis (or online)

I found your RV on Google maps (man...you are MASTER at backing in your driveway!!) Just let me know if you want me to come over..you are about 5 mins from me.

 

[GregBassine]

Thanks, I'll go ahead and put the wall back up. I DID learn a lot about our RV. I haven't called Matt yet only because I figured I'd wait until our Rally trip. That should be close to our last trip of the season for us (other than maybe going to a Beaver game in Corvallis), then I could just leave the rig there so he wouldn't be rushed. Make sense? I can guarantee you that getting to the furnace is a major challenge. Not sure even Matt can get to it <sigh>. No need to bypass wires just yet as we won't go cold with all our other forms of heat in the RV (Hot Shot, Fireplace, etc.). Appreciate the offer. We really look forward to meeting you guys at the rally!

It is NEVER easy to back our rig in our driveway. Add to that the rock wall on one side and big rocks on the other, the cul-de-sac and the neighbors parking their cars there.... well, good thing I have an expert navigator (Char).... I appreciate all the help you and the other people have given. Worst case, I learned a lot and met new people. Greg

I would say you can now put wall back up.

Did you ever call Matt? At this point the only thing left in my arsenal of things to test would be the over limit switch on the furnace. It should have a reset function, but perhaps that has failed. We could bypass the switch with some wire, just to test. If that is the issue, you could get one from Camping World or Curtis (or online)

I found your RV on Google maps (man...you are MASTER at backing in your driveway!!) Just let me know if you want me to come over..you are about 5 mins from me.

 

[Oregon_Camper]

OK....See you at the Rally next Friday.

I'm sure there will be a LOT of smarter folks than me at the Rally...perhaps someone there can determine the problem.

However, I'd still call Matt now and make an appointment. Worse case, it gets fixed at the Rally and you call Matt and cancel the appointment.

OH..you just scored HUGE points with me...Go BEAVS!! My wife and I are both OSU Alumni (class of 1990)

 

[GregBassine]

Will do, see you at the rally... and of course... go Beaves (Char is an OSU alum as well).

OK....See you at the Rally next Friday.

I'm sure there will be a LOT of smarter folks than me at the Rally...perhaps someone there can determine the problem.

However, I'd still call Matt now and make an appointment. Worse case, it gets fixed at the Rally and you call Matt and cancel the appointment.

OH..you just scored HUGE points with me...Go BEAVS!! My wife and I are both OSU Alumni (class of 1990)

 

[Roller4tan]

Don't forget to hook your batteries back up. The furnace control board on my suburban furnace is accessible from the outside. Intake and exhaust tubes have to be removed (tight fit) and then the access panel. Control board is on the left side. Had to replace mine with a Dinosaur brand off of etrailer.com, I think. Fan relay wouldn't kick in to start the fan sequence.

 

[GregBassine]

Thanks for the feedback! Batteries are back up. Good to know about the furnace access. We have a 2014' so hopefully can access there. Sure can't access anywhere else <sigh>. Just WAY too many things to go wrong with these darned RV's, but I love them! Saw your POW mention. Viet Nam Vet here, so welcome home!

Greg

Don't forget to hook your batteries back up. The furnace control board on my suburban furnace is accessible from the outside. Intake and exhaust tubes have to be removed (tight fit) and then the access panel. Control board is on the left side. Had to replace mine with a Dinosaur brand off of etrailer.com, I think. Fan relay wouldn't kick in to start the fan sequence.

 

[GregBassine]

One other thing. When the furnace quit working, I was out early fishing. When wife got up she noticed furnace had shut off and it was freezing. She immediately thought we'd run out of propane, so she want out and checked tank (knuckle rap method), thought it was empty, so switched manually over to other tank (thinking it hadn't automatically switched over). Still furnace wouldn't come on. I don't think the original tank was empty, but could the manual switch over have caused the regulator to freeze up or something?

Today I turned off the gas on both tanks, disconnected lines from tanks and went to stove and burned all gas from lines. At that point, the window on the regulator showed bright red (which I believe is normal, yes?). I turned off gas on stove burners, reconnected gas lines and VERY slowly turned on gas on both tanks. I then ran gas through lines letting gas stove burn for a minute. Still no furnace. I did look at regulator window (see pictures), and there is nothing in the window (I can see slight lines of red, but not solid red). Should the regulator window show green when everything is working properly?

Not sure if this is even important, but thought I'd mention it. Your thoughts?

Greg

Thanks for the feedback! Batteries are back up. Good to know about the furnace access. We have a 2014' so hopefully can access there. Sure can't access anywhere else <sigh>. Just WAY too many things to go wrong with these darned RV's, but I love them! Saw your POW mention. Viet Nam Vet here, so welcome home!

Greg

 

[Oregon_Camper]

Today I turned off the gas on both tanks, disconnected lines from tanks and went to stove and burned all gas from lines. At that point, the window on the regulator showed bright red (which I believe is normal, yes?). I turned off gas on stove burners, reconnected gas lines and VERY slowly turned on gas on both tanks. I then ran gas through lines letting gas stove burn for a minute. Still no furnace. I did look at regulator window (see pictures), and there is nothing in the window (I can see slight lines of red, but not solid red). Should the regulator window show green when everything is working properly?

I'm drawing a huge blank right now if our built in gauge has a green indicator. I think it is only red.

I gave up on those about a year ago, and per a recommendation by someone here, I bought this wireless solution. I don't use the app, I just touch the included display and I can see my tank levels. Works GREAT for us.

Link to Amazon

 

[GregBassine]

Thanks, I'll check it out. More importantly, could a screwed up regulator be causing the problem? We do get stove and water heater gas.

Greg[

QUOTE=Oregon_Camper;562227]I'm drawing a huge blank right now if our built in gauge has a green indicator. I think it is only red.

I gave up on those about a year ago, and per a recommendation by someone here, I bought this wireless solution. I don't use the app, I just touch the included display and I can see my tank levels. Works GREAT for us.

Link to Amazon

View attachment 54452[/QUOTE]