3260EL Electrical Problem - Furnace - Light Switch and TV - Need your thoughts please

[Oregon_Camper]

So long as we're hooked up to shore power, shouldn't it work ok? Sorry, a dummy here when it comes to how things work on the RV. Your thoughts?

The heater works on 12v not 120v. Your converter (hidden behind the wall in the pass through storage) supplies the 12v power to the heater when you're plugged in, but you still need the battery to be charged.

Perhaps you haven't checked the battery in a while? Test with voltmeter or unplug trailer and cycle through the level up panel to see the battery level.

 

[hoefler]

Thanks for the feedback. When we turn on the furnace, there is no sound what so ever (no clicking or any sound which would let us know it wants to try to start). Would having a wasp nest in the furnace cause that to happen? If so, should I get my compressor out and blow into the outside furnace vent? Of course, my Heartland manual shows nothing with respect to my Suburban furnace (how to access and repair), so am kind of guessing any time I make any repairs. We have checked fuses just to make sure that's not the problem. Is there a circuit breaker that might need to be reset? If so, we have a 3260EL, where might that danged breaker be?

Your thoughts?

If the wasp built it's nest near the blower wheel, it would keep it from spinning. If it isn't spinning and blowing air, the sail switch would not indicate air flow telling the computer to start the igniter.

 

[LBR]

Greg...as mentioned earlier, take a VOM and check the voltage directly at your batteries....post up the voltage here so everyone knows the status for more troubleshooting options.

 

[GregBassine]

Greg...as mentioned earlier, take a VOM and check the voltage directly at your batteries....post up the voltage here so everyone knows the status for more troubleshooting options.

Sorry, was AFK. I will do so this coming Sunday or Monday and post results. Cannot check until then. Thanks to all for your excellent feedback.

Greg

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If the wasp built it's nest near the blower wheel, it would keep it from spinning. If it isn't spinning and blowing air, the sail switch would not indicate air flow telling the computer to start the igniter.

Thanks as always! I'll blow it out Monday and get back with results. I'm also checking batteries.

 

[hoefler]

Sorry, was AFK. I will do so this coming Sunday or Monday and post results. Cannot check until then. Thanks to all for your excellent feedback.

Greg

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Thanks as always! I'll blow it out Monday and get back with results. I'm also checking batteries.

Unfortunately, if it is a nest keeping the blower from spinning, you will have to remove the furnace and disassemble it to remove the nest.

 

[GregBassine]

Unfortunately, if it is a nest keeping the blower from spinning, you will have to remove the furnace and disassemble it to remove the nest.

Bummer.... Sounds like a job for "That Trailer Guy". Once I find out the culprit, I'll post it so maybe others will get benefit from it.

Greg

 

[Oregon_Camper]

Bummer.... Sounds like a job for "That Trailer Guy". Once I find out the culprit, I'll post it so maybe others will get benefit from it.

Greg

Did you call Matt and get an appointment?

 

[GregBassine]

Did you call Matt and get an appointment?

Haven't had time. Just got done hosting a 60 person charity benefit at our home. Been super busy getting everything ready. I'll try batteries and blowing the furnace out first, then will give him a call if all else fails. Right now taking a short breather.

Thanks,

Greg

 

[GregBassine]

UPDATE: I took my compressor and blew into the two furnace vent holes outside of the RV; gave them a good dose of compressed air. Tried the furnace and no joy.

Next I measured (several times with the same results) both batteries. Here are my findings:

No-Load (battery disconnect switch was turned to disconnect): Left Battery - 12.38 Volts Right Battery - 12.37 Volts

Load (battery disconnect switch was turned back to on and shore power was disconnected): Left Battery - 12.27 Volts Right Battery - 12.27 Volts

Load with shore power connected: Left Battery - 12.67 Volts Right Battery 12.65 Volts

I have read that to run the furnace I should have at least 13.5 Volts. Is this correct? If so, then new batteries might be in my near future, yes?

If not, any other ideas?

There have been many people responding. and I want to thank you all. It shows this board works. Happy Labor Day to all!

I look forward to your thoughts,

Greg

 

[Oregon_Camper]

Think it is time to call Matt. Tell him I referred you...you might have to say something like, "...the guy you built 2 custom motorcycle racks for" Tell him your schedule and hopefully he can get you in before you leave for the rally.

No need to replace your batteries, they are fine. Here is a 12v chart for your reference. Just as and FYI...both your furnace and refrigerator require the batteries to be charged correctly. As long as your frig is working on 12v....then I don't think the batteries are in the problem equation anymore.....IMHO of course.

 

[danemayer]

Load (battery disconnect switch was turned back to on and shore power was disconnected): Left Battery - 12.27 Volts Right Battery - 12.27 Volts

Load with shore power connected: Left Battery - 12.67 Volts Right Battery 12.65 Volts

With shore power connected, you should be reading 13.2 - 13.6V DC at the batteries. This reading reflects the output of the Power Converter, not the state of the batteries.

So....either your Power Converter is not working, or the 12V DC manual-reset mini-circuit breaker near the batteries has tripped.

The way you can tell which is having a problem is to unplug shore power, and the tow vehicle, and see if you have interior 12V lights. If so, battery power is getting through the breaker into the interior of the coach, which means the breaker is not tripped. That means you have a problem with the Power Converter.

If no interior lights work when shore power is off, then you have a tripped mini-circuit breaker. These are located on a buss bar near the batteries and are covered by a set of red rubber boots. One breaker has a teeny-tiny reset button on the end. After resetting, interior lights should work, and when you plug back into shore power, you'll see 13.2 - 13.6V DC on the batteries.

You may as well straighten this out before trying to figure out anything else.

 

[GregBassine]

Well, that's a bummer! Was kinda hoping it was the batteries (easier to fix). I'll give Matt a call soon (will now need to be after the 7 Feathers rally). Matts place has a weird entry way off HWY 99. Kind of need to stop completely in the fast lane to turn in. You notice that problem (we have a 38' Bighorn). Maybe I'll see what he charges to come out here. Will cost more but might be safer for us in the long run. Thanks for all your help. See you at the Rally! What site are you in? We're in site 147, feel free to drop by and say hi.

Think it is time to call Matt. Tell him I referred you...you might have to say something like, "...the guy you built 2 custom motorcycle racks for" Tell him your schedule and hopefully he can get you in before you leave for the rally.

No need to replace your batteries, they are fine. Here is a 12v chart for your reference. Just as and FYI...both your furnace and refrigerator require the batteries to be charged correctly. As long as your frig is working on 12v....then I don't think the batteries are in the problem equation anymore.....IMHO of course.


View attachment 54379

 

[Oregon_Camper]

Well, that's a bummer! Was kinda hoping it was the batteries (easier to fix). I'll give Matt a call soon (will now need to be after the 7 Feathers rally). Matts place has a weird entry way off HWY 99. Kind of need to stop completely in the fast lane to turn in. You notice that problem (we have a 38' Bighorn). Maybe I'll see what he charges to come out here. Will cost more but might be safer for us in the long run. Thanks for all your help. See you at the Rally! What site are you in? We're in site 147, feel free to drop by and say hi.

If you can't get to Matt before the Rally, I'm sure between all the smart folks there, we can figure it out. We might need to access behind the pass-through storage. So, if possible, take as much out of there before coming to the Rally. We are in site 135 and will arrive around 7pm on Friday.

BTW...there is a center line area to use to turn into Matt's place...used it MANY times.

 

[GregBassine]

Thanks, I pulled shore power off and the interior lights still go on, darned, no easy fix! Any one know where the power converter is on the Bighorn 3250EL? <sigh>.

With shore power connected, you should be reading 13.2 - 13.6V DC at the batteries. This reading reflects the output of the Power Converter, not the state of the batteries.

So....either your Power Converter is not working, or the 12V DC manual-reset mini-circuit breaker near the batteries has tripped.

The way you can tell which is having a problem is to unplug shore power, and the tow vehicle, and see if you have interior 12V lights. If so, battery power is getting through the breaker into the interior of the coach, which means the breaker is not tripped. That means you have a problem with the Power Converter.

If no interior lights work when shore power is off, then you have a tripped mini-circuit breaker. These are located on a buss bar near the batteries and are covered by a set of red rubber boots. One breaker has a teeny-tiny reset button on the end. After resetting, interior lights should work, and when you plug back into shore power, you'll see 13.2 - 13.6V DC on the batteries.

You may as well straighten this out before trying to figure out anything else.

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Thanks... Excellent graphics BTW. Will look you guys up at the rally (we're practically neighbors). I think our furnace entry point is in our closet (fairly small hole about 18" X 18". That what you are talking about? Either way, we can quickly move things out of the way.

If you can't get to Matt before the Rally, I'm sure between all the smart folks there, we can figure it out. We might need to access behind the pass-through storage. So, if possible, take as much out of there before coming to the Rally. We are in site 135 and will arrive around 7pm on Friday.

BTW...there is a center line area to use to turn into Matt's place...used it MANY times.

View attachment 54380

 

[danemayer]

You'll usually find the Power Converter behind the rear wall of the pass through basement storage.

Before taking the wall down, check the 120V AC circuit breaker in the main panel inside the coach. One of them supplies power to the Power Converter.

Also, make sure you don't have any 120V AC problems - like dead outlets, or some appliances not working. Sometimes you can lose one of the 2 shore power legs.

If all that looks ok, take down the wall and 1) make sure the Power Converter is plugged in. Sometimes the plugs vibrate out of the receptacle. If so tie it in place. 2) Check the on-board automotive style blade fuses on the Converter. 3) Check for loose wires.

If you get the Converter running, you should read 13.2 - 13.6 V at the batteries.

After that's ok, take another run at the furnace. Close both LP tank valves and reopen them verrrrrrry slowly. Then try the furnace.

If still nothing, get the ambient temperature reading from the thermostat. If a Dometic LCD Single Zone, cycle the mode to OFF and press the + or - button to display what temperature the thermostat thinks it's reading. If it's displaying 68 and you have the set point at 70, the furnace should start.

You should hear a click, followed by the furnace blower running for about 25 seconds. Then it should open the gas valve and try to ignite the gas.

 

[GregBassine]

Good info, thanks. I'll try this and get back with results. By the way, Oregon_Camper mentioned the furnace and refrigerator both runs on DC power, and if the refrigerator is working the batteries should be OK. Jim, if you're following, our fridge power options are 110 and gas (only 2 option). So, not sure if that helps. When shore power is disconnected and our gas is turned off, the fridge beeps an error basically telling us there's no power. Does this help?

You'll usually find the Power Converter behind the rear wall of the pass through basement storage.

Before taking the wall down, check the 120V AC circuit breaker in the main panel inside the coach. One of them supplies power to the Power Converter.

Also, make sure you don't have any 120V AC problems - like dead outlets, or some appliances not working. Sometimes you can lose one of the 2 shore power legs.

If all that looks ok, take down the wall and 1) make sure the Power Converter is plugged in. Sometimes the plugs vibrate out of the receptacle. If so tie it in place. 2) Check the on-board automotive style blade fuses on the Converter. 3) Check for loose wires.

If you get the Converter running, you should read 13.2 - 13.6 V at the batteries.

After that's ok, take another run at the furnace. Close both LP tank valves and reopen them verrrrrrry slowly. Then try the furnace.

If still nothing, get the ambient temperature reading from the thermostat. If a Dometic LCD Single Zone, cycle the mode to OFF and press the + or - button to display what temperature the thermostat thinks it's reading. If it's displaying 68 and you have the set point at 70, the furnace should start.

You should hear a click, followed by the furnace blower running for about 25 seconds. Then it should open the gas valve and try to ignite the gas.

 

[Oregon_Camper]

Wanted to show to what to look for, if you decide to take the basement wall down to inspect the converter. The image below is the converter, and you'll see the 3 fuses Dan was referring to in his post above.

I was one of the lucky ones where my converted DID come unplugged. Very frustrating, but I fixed that by using zip ties to ensure it stayed in going forward.



BTW...the 'basement" wall is the storage compartment where you can access the storage from both side. The rear wall will be the one you need to take down to get to the converter.

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Good info, thanks. I'll try this and get back with results. By the way, Oregon_Camper mentioned the furnace and refrigerator both runs on DC power, and if the refrigerator is working the batteries should be OK. Jim, if you're following, our fridge power options are 110 and gas (only 2 option). So, not sure if that helps. When shore power is disconnected and our gas is turned off, the fridge beeps an error basically telling us there's no power. Does this help?

For frig to work you need one of the follow configs:

1 - Switch set to AC or Auto - RV is on Shore Power

2- Switch is set to LP or Auto - Propane is turned on and RV has 12v power.


Your comment above said you unplugged from shore and turned propane off....there is no way for frig to work in that situation.

 

[GregBassine]

Thanks, helps a lot. By the way, it has been a long day.. When I was referring to the fridge, I was thinking there were 3 modes (1. Battery, 2. Gas, 3. shore power). If I am now reading this right, you need adequate battery to get the gas to power the fridge, yes? With respect to the power converter, do I need to take the entire back wall off, or is there just a panel to take off? I reckon your and our rigs are pretty much the same when it comes to where the power converter is.

Wanted to show to what to look for, if you decide to take the basement wall down to inspect the converter. The image below is the converter, and you'll see the 3 fuses Dan was referring to in his post above.

I was one of the lucky ones where my converted DID come unplugged. Very frustrating, but I fixed that by using zip ties to ensure it stayed in going forward.

View attachment 54381

BTW...the 'basement" wall is the storage compartment where you can access the storage from both side. The rear wall will be the one you need to take down to get to the converter.

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For frig to work you need one of the follow configs:

1 - Switch set to AC or Auto - RV is on Shore Power

2- Switch is set to LP or Auto - Propane is turned on and RV has 12v power.


Your comment above said you unplugged from shore and turned propane off....there is no way for frig to work in that situation.

 

[Oregon_Camper]

Thanks, helps a lot. By the way, it has been a long day.. When I was referring to the fridge, I was thinking there were 3 modes (1. Battery, 2. Gas, 3. shore power). If I am now reading this right, you need adequate battery to get the gas to power the fridge, yes? With respect to the power converter, do I need to take the entire back wall off, or is there just a panel to take off? I reckon your and our rigs are pretty much the same when it comes to where the power converter is.

There is no access panel.

The back wall is probably 2 pieces. You will need to remove the one on the door side of the RV. Get a cordless screwdriver and the correct square headed bit. It is a jigsaw puzzle to get the wall down.

Clearly, I'm not doing much today...I guess I could come over to help you. I'm close to Southridge High School....you??

 

[danemayer]

Good info, thanks. I'll try this and get back with results. By the way, Oregon_Camper mentioned the furnace and refrigerator both runs on DC power, and if the refrigerator is working the batteries should be OK. Jim, if you're following, our fridge power options are 110 and gas (only 2 option). So, not sure if that helps. When shore power is disconnected and our gas is turned off, the fridge beeps an error basically telling us there's no power. Does this help?

With shore power disconnected, and gas turned off, your dual-mode gas absorption refrigerator has no way to produce the heat necessary for the refrigerator to cool.

If shore power is disconnected, and gas is ON, AND you have 12V DC power, then the fridge should run.

BUT, the furnace may have a different threshold for 12V DC power. So if your DC power is marginal, you might be able to run the refrigerator but not the furnace.