3260EL Electrical Problem - Furnace - Light Switch and TV - Need your thoughts please

[GregBassine]

Thanks Jim, Anything with the words RV or Boat is never easy to handle <sigh>. I installed a wall mounted TV there, so will need to remove that as well. Oh well, it's good practice....

There is no access panel.

The back wall is probably 2 pieces. You will need to remove the one on the door side of the RV. Get a cordless screwdriver and the correct square headed bit. It is a jigsaw puzzle to get the wall down.

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That makes sense, thanks for the clarification. So, I still won't know if the battery power is enough until I check out the power converter. Not ideal, but I can work with that. But if I may, here is the scenario I mentioned when I first started this thread: "One thing which I was just informed is the furnace was running, it quit and we thought it was out of propane, The tanks didn't switch over, so switched it manually to the other tank. the furnace wouldn't start up so figured we'd go back to where we were originally and switched the propane tanks back. Now we can't get any spark or indication the furnace wants to work. Does that help anyone? BTW, I did remove hoses to tanks, replaced them then opened the valves very slowly to ensure no air lock. Motherboard?". Could this order we did things be the culprit? This happened when we had heat the night before, next morning is was chilly, so we turned the heat up and nothing. Then went outside and did things with the tanks. I just want to rule anything to do with that out. Could we have screwed up the converter or motherboard by doing this? Make sense?

With shore power disconnected, and gas turned off, your dual-mode gas absorption refrigerator has no way to produce the heat necessary for the refrigerator to cool.

If shore power is disconnected, and gas is ON, AND you have 12V DC power, then the fridge should run.

BUT, the furnace may have a different threshold for 12V DC power. So if your DC power is marginal, you might be able to run the refrigerator but not the furnace.

 

[GregBassine]

The problem with the furnace is unrelated to the other issues, the A/C and fan work, the thermostat gets its power from the furnace to operate. The furnace will most likely have a wasp nest in it, not letting the blower spool up.

Hello All, I have cleaned out my basement and am ready to remove the wall to check if my power converter has a problem (loose wires, plug came loose, fuses blown). It appears there are 2 wall panels. From the entry door side of the RV (awning side), looking into the basement, it looks like there might be 2 panels. The first one has the cable hookup, 110V power plug in, vacuum bag receptical and other items connected to that wall. The other wall has nothing attached to it. Which one has the power converter behind it? I am hoping the wall I need to remove is the one with nothing attached to it. Your feedback it appreciated as always,

Greg

 

[Oregon_Camper]

Hello All, I have cleaned out my basement and am ready to remove the wall to check if my power converter has a problem (loose wires, plug came loose, fuses blown). It appears there are 2 wall panels. From the entry door side of the RV (awning side), looking into the basement, it looks like there might be 2 panels. The first one has the cable hookup, 110V power plug in, vacuum bag receptical and other items connected to that wall. The other wall has nothing attached to it. Which one has the power converter behind it? I am hoping the wall I need to remove is the one with nothing attached to it.

It will be the one with all the stuff attached.

This what the converter looks like.

 

[GregBassine]

Oh My! Do I need to unhook all the things attached to the wall panel or can I just carefully pull the panel away from the wall? Not sure after unhooking everything how to reattach things. Not much room to move there. Your thoughts?

It will be the one with all the stuff attached.

This what the converter looks like.

View attachment 54423

 

[Oregon_Camper]

Oh My! Do I need to unhook all the things attached to the wall panel or can I just carefully pull the panel away from the wall? Not sure after unhooking everything how to reattach things. Not much room to move there. Your thoughts?

Yep...everything needs to come off. Just unscrew them and let them fall back behind. I've done it 4 times...

Just make sure your RV is unplugged, when you work around the 110v outlet.

 

[GregBassine]

Will let you know how it goes. Thanks a lot!

Yep...everything needs to come off. Just unscrew them and let them fall back behind. I've done it 4 times...

Just make sure your RV is unplugged, when you work around the 110v outlet.

 

[GregBassine]

Hello All, I have cleaned out my basement and am ready to remove the wall to check if my power converter has a problem (loose wires, plug came loose, fuses blown). It appears there are 2 wall panels. From the entry door side of the RV (awning side), looking into the basement, it looks like there might be 2 panels. The first one has the cable hookup, 110V power plug in, vacuum bag receptical and other items connected to that wall. The other wall has nothing attached to it. Which one has the power converter behind it? I am hoping the wall I need to remove is the one with nothing attached to it. Your feedback it appreciated as always,

Greg

UPDATE: I have good news and bad news. I was prepared to remove all the dodads which was connected to the basement wall (power box, antenna, vacuum, etc. to get to the power converter, but decided to try the other panel first (which had no dodads) and thought maybe I could see enough to get to the power converter. As luck would have it, the power converter is directly behind the wall I took out, so I was able to access it.

I checked all the wiring (all tight) checked the 110V plug-in (was about 1/16 away from receptical, so pushed it back in tight. The fuses are good. I put everything back and slowly turned on the gas (both tanks). I then went into the RV and turned on the furnace. Now the bad news... Still no joy. Yesterday I took both propane tanks and to them topped off. So, what's left? Mother Board? Again, and feedback is appreciated.

 

[Oregon_Camper]

Before you put the wall back up, can you put a volt meter on the red and white terminals on the converter to see if you're getting the 13.4v out?

Also...can you hear the converter? The fan should be on, creating a slight humming noise.

Here is where to test.

 

[Oregon_Camper]

I'm going to ask a question, but don't take offense.

Have you checked both the 12v and 110v circuits?

For 110v....flip them all on/off a few times. For 12v...double check all the blade fuses.

I might even replace the one for the furnace...just to be 100% sure.

 

[GregBassine]

QUOTE=Oregon_Camper;561995]I'm going to ask a question, but don't take offense.
Have you checked both the 12v and 110v circuits?
For 110v....flip them all on/off a few times. For 12v...double check all the blade fuses.
I might even replace the one for the furnace...just to be 100% sure.[/QUOTE]

There is no such thing as a stupid question. I did not test anything other than what I said (unfortunately). I don't own a volt meter (it looks like that will be changing shortly). Not sure if I can unpack again and do this before the Rally. Will give it a shot though if I can. I did not hear a fan blowing on the power converter, but then again I was not looking for it to be on. Is it on all the time? It's kind of hard to reach with all the other pipes and hoses in front of it, but will give it a shot.

Not sure what you mean by "Flip them all on/off a few times". What should I be flipping? Also, the blade fuses, are you talking about the 3 fuses on the power converter, or in the fuse box inside the RV?

Do you think the power converter the culprit?

 

[Oregon_Camper]

There is no such thing as a stupid question.

Perhaps you can tell my wife that at the rally. LOL

I did not hear a fan blowing on the power converter, but then again I was not looking for it to be on. Is it on all the time? It's kind of hard to reach with all the other pipes and hoses in front of it, but will give it a shot.

Yes, the converter will be "on" whenever you're plugged into shore power. The fan will cycle high/low based on charging needs of the battery and 12v usage in the RV.

Not sure what you mean by "Flip them all on/off a few times". What should I be flipping? Also, the blade fuses, are you talking about the 3 fuses on the power converter, or in the fuse box inside the RV?

I mean the circuit breakers inside your RV. There will be typical breakers like you have in your home (110v) and 12v fuses in a separate panel box.

Do you think the power converter the culprit?

I am not ruling that out. If you can get back inside the wall area and don't hear the converter coming on when on shore power, then that gets us closer to the problem. I'm next to Southridge High School and I have a spare converter. If you're close, perhaps I can swing over and we can swap them to see if that resolves issue.

 

[Oregon_Camper]

While reading this thread again, I noticed you have 2 heater thermostats.....why?

 

[danemayer]

While reading this thread again, I noticed you have 2 heater thermostats.....why?

View attachment 54434

Jim,

The top one is for the Fantastic Fan. The bottom is a Dometic Single Zone LCD for air conditioner and possibly also the furnace.

 

[GregBassine]

While reading this thread again, I noticed you have 2 heater thermostats.....why?

View attachment 54434

Top one is for our Fantastic Fan which automatically opens the roof vent and turns on at a pre-set temp.

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Jim,

The top one is for the Fantastic Fan. The bottom is a Dometic Single Zone LCD for air conditioner and possibly also the furnace.

Hey Dan and Jim,

Yes, the bottom one is for fan, air conditioner and furnace (in that order).

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Perhaps you can tell my wife that at the rally. LOL




Yes, the converter will be "on" whenever you're plugged into shore power. The fan will cycle high/low based on charging needs of the battery and 12v usage in the RV.




I mean the circuit breakers inside your RV. There will be typical breakers like you have in your home (110v) and 12v fuses in a separate panel box.





I am not ruling that out. If you can get back inside the wall area and don't hear the converter coming on when on shore power, then that gets us closer to the problem. I'm next to Southridge High School and I have a spare converter. If you're close, perhaps I can swing over and we can swap them to see if that resolves issue.

Thanks Jim,

Let me get a volt meter tomorrow and check the things out you mention and some new fuses, then if still no joy, I'll reach out to you (already feel bad you all are so helpful). By the way, we're almost neighbors. We live off SW 135th and Scholls Ferry.

 

[GregBassine]

UPDATE: Went to Harbor Freight got CEN-TECH Multi-meter, took quick YouTube tutorial, and am now an expert (right?). Checked all blade fans inside RV fuse box (all good), and turned on/of power converter circuit breaker couple of times. Turned gas off and then on very slowly... no joy. Am now cleaning out basement and will check power converter to see if fan is blowing (it's currently hooked up to shore power so the fan should be blowing, right?). Also will check the 3 blade fuses with multi-meter, and DC neg and pos lines coming in to power converter (next to blade fuses). Once completed, will check back in with results. Thanks all for following.

Greg

Perhaps you can tell my wife that at the rally. LOL




Yes, the converter will be "on" whenever you're plugged into shore power. The fan will cycle high/low based on charging needs of the battery and 12v usage in the RV.




I mean the circuit breakers inside your RV. There will be typical breakers like you have in your home (110v) and 12v fuses in a separate panel box.





I am not ruling that out. If you can get back inside the wall area and don't hear the converter coming on when on shore power, then that gets us closer to the problem. I'm next to Southridge High School and I have a spare converter. If you're close, perhaps I can swing over and we can swap them to see if that resolves issue.

 

[Oregon_Camper]

Have you pulled the thermostat controller off the wall to see if by any chance you have a loose wire?

I ask this, as you said in original post, that you had a loose wire on the light switch.

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.... and will check power converter to see if fan is blowing. It's currently hooked up to shore power so the fan should be blowing, right?.

Odds are good the fan will be blowing. Even if you don't hear it, you should test the red/white output for 13.4v.

 

[GregBassine]

I'm ready to test. Have a tissue to hold in from to fan to see of there's any air movement. I have not taken the thermostat controller off yet. I took the cover off and couldn't see how to take it off (didn't see any screws upon cursory inspection). When I do that I'll disconnect batteries and shore power, Will get back with power converter shortly.

Greg

Have you pulled the thermostat controller off the wall to see if by any chance you have a loose wire?

I ask this, as you said in original post, that you had a loose wire on the light switch.

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Odds are good the fan will be blowing. Even if you don't hear it, you should test the red/white output for 13.4v.

 

[GregBassine]

UPDATE 12:45 PM - Got cover off, checked blade fuses (all 3 good), Fan IS running (I can hear it now that I listened). When I tried the red and black terminals where you showed, I set the multi-meter to DC, number to "20", touched both terminals and got a 0.0 reading. Batteries are set to on (disconnect switch is off), shore power is connected. Should I do something different?



Greg

Have you pulled the thermostat controller off the wall to see if by any chance you have a loose wire?

I ask this, as you said in original post, that you had a loose wire on the light switch.

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Odds are good the fan will be blowing. Even if you don't hear it, you should test the red/white output for 13.4v.

 

[GregBassine]

UPDATE 1:15 PM: Disconnected shore and DC power. Took thermostat off (2 screws). There are only two thin wires going in and they look hard wired into the thermostat. With that said, the air and fan seem to be working correctly via thermoshat, so is it safe to "assume" the thermostat is good?


Greg

Have you pulled the thermostat controller off the wall to see if by any chance you have a loose wire?

I ask this, as you said in original post, that you had a loose wire on the light switch.

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Odds are good the fan will be blowing. Even if you don't hear it, you should test the red/white output for 13.4v.

 

[GregBassine]

RECAP 2;18 pm:

-- The batteries appear to check out (between 70% to 80% good).
-- Thermostat appears to be working (fan and air works using it, and the 2 wires behind thermostat appear connected to unit).
-- All the blade fuses inside the fuse panel in the RV fuse panel all have been tested with a volt meter and are ok.
-- I have turned the power supply circuit breaker off/on a few times inside the circuit breaker panel.
-- With respect to the power converter, the fan runs when connected to 110V shore power, all the blade fuses look good after
checking with volt meter. Only concern is when I checked voltage of the large red and black DC wires, it showed 0.00 on the volt meter
(shore power on and batteries on). Understood they should read 13.4 V. I had volt meter on DC / 20 number) when I tested, so maybe
I did something wrong there.

-- I also opened the access panel we have inside our closet/pantry to see if perhaps I could check the motherboard for a loose wire or something.

No way to even get there to check (see pics). So any further thoughts on what to test?
BTW, I have learned a lot here and thank you all for the guidance.

Greg

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UPDATE 1:15 PM: Disconnected shore and DC power. Took thermostat off (2 screws). There are only two thin wires going in and they look hard wired into the thermostat. With that said, the air and fan seem to be working correctly via thermostat, so is it safe to "assume" the thermostat is good?

UPDATE 12:45 PM - Got cover off, checked blade fuses (all 3 good), Fan IS running (I can hear it now that I listened). When I tried the red and black terminals where you showed, I set the multi-meter to DC, number to "20", touched both terminals and got a 0.0 reading. Batteries are set to on (disconnect switch is off), shore power is connected. Should I do something different?


I'm ready to test. Have a tissue to hold in from to fan to see of there's any air movement. I have not taken the thermostat controller off yet. I took the cover off and couldn't see how to take it off (didn't see any screws upon cursory inspection). When I do that I'll disconnect batteries and shore power, Will get back with power converter shortly.

Greg