50 amp cord trips the 50 amp breaker on the camp ground box

porthole

Retired
Before you call the professional, contact PCS and ask them what would explain the incorrect readings on your electrical usage panel, also explaining the problem with the pedestal breaker tripping except when on 30 amps. They will probably be able to provide useful information that will help you or the professional correct the problem.


Has it been documented yet where the PCS is in relation to a transfer switch?
 

lukeysh

Member
Take a look at the pcs owners manual. The power "on" status of devices means they have power, not that they're running. Also the amps are not the current amperage draw, but the amps when the device was last turned off. Doesn't explain your issue but it the pcs may be accurate.


Matt & Pam Padgett
2016 Landmark Arlington
2016 F-350
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rikreed

Member
The problem was due to a burned out transfer switch. It looked like it caught fire, which is a bit troubling to say the least. Since we are talking about a new 5th wheel, the tech said it looked like a wire not being properly secured during time of manufacturing. We also had a break spring replaced on one of the wheels. It had broken loose and was causing some squealing. In addition, the water pump was vibrating a bit loud so we had a flexible hose installed on the outgoing side of the pump.

All seems to be working now and we are back in business. My understanding is that new rv's tend to have a few kinks to work out. So all is good at present. It was just a little nerve racking since we are on the road permanently now with no home to go to when work is being done. This is all we got and we are 1000 miles from family. But Heartland took care of the warranty work just fine and we are pleased.

Thanks for all the replies.

Rik
 

jmgratz

Original Owners Club Member
We had transfer switch problems also. Seems like the fitting in the xfer box either don't get tightened of they loosen up easily. I might be wrong but seems to me that copper wires going into an aluminum fitting do not stay tightened due to the two different types of metal. Electricians am I right? If so then we all will need to tighten the fittings in the xfer switch from time to time.
 

mlpeloquin

Well-known member
Aluminum oxidises and expands and contracts at a different rate than copper. Copper and aluminum with the presents of moisture will also react with each other. Are you sure that the connections are aluminum? They can be dull tin plated copper or tin plated copper alloy which looks like aluminum. You might want to go on line at the manufactures website and look for the details for your part number. There catalog should list the types of material and the metal used as well as the current rating and make/brake (how many times the switch can be expected to preform before failure) as well as operating temperature range and shock and vibration specifications. Sometimes some of the specs you have to look up the actual ISO specs or others to get some of the information. Well I digress. There have been more than one transfer switch with burn up problems. If the metal is aluminum, then it is not compatible with copper. Cannot believe that Heartland engineers would spec a part to have aluminum connections with copper wire. Shock and vibrations will loosen up fasteners that are under or over torqued. The manufactures data sheet on the transfer switch may specify the required torque for the connections.
 

rahewett

Well-known member
I happen to be an electrician, so maybe I can lend some info here. The lugs in most panels (transfer switch) usually are made of aluminum. When we connect copper wire to these lugs, we have to use a dielectric grease such as Nolox to prevent the reactions that causes the corrosion. This also helps with the heat in the connection as these different metals expand and contract differently. And yes, the connection should be torqued correctly. For those of you that have these large RV's I would suggest you get familiar with as much of the wiring as you feel comfortable with and check it often. But remember, DON'T HAVE ANY POWER CONNECTED. A good volt-ohm metre is very handy thing to have in your tool box. I have found some really bad problems with loose wires in my work on homes and businesses and our RV's are no different. And they take much more abuse with the roads we travel on.

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jmgratz

Original Owners Club Member
I happen to be an electrician, so maybe I can lend some info here. The lugs in most panels (transfer switch) usually are made of aluminum. When we connect copper wire to these lugs, we have to use a dielectric grease such as Nolox to prevent the reactions that causes the corrosion. This also helps with the heat in the connection as these different metals expand and contract differently. And yes, the connection should be torqued correctly. For those of you that have these large RV's I would suggest you get familiar with as much of the wiring as you feel comfortable with and check it often. But remember, DON'T HAVE ANY POWER CONNECTED. A good volt-ohm metre is very handy thing to have in your tool box. I have found some really bad problems with loose wires in my work on homes and businesses and our RV's are no different. And they take much more abuse with the roads we travel on.

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So I guess my answer is we need to periodically retighten (or at least check) on the tightness of the connections in the Transfer Switch and Breaker box.
 

rahewett

Well-known member
I would recommend once a year just for piece of mind. If you happen to get a new or new to you one then maybe check it out as soon as possible after delivery. It would definitely help to prevent problems like this one.

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jmgratz

Original Owners Club Member
Could it be I hit on something as to the reason for the amount of transfer switch failures? Hmmm
 

rahewett

Well-known member
As stated in other posts, quality control is a issue when in comes to factory workers and quota's. The people doing the wiring aren't vested in you unit. People get in a hurry and things get missed or not checked. I have wired well over 100 homes and haven't had any major issues. But that doesn't mean everything was perfect in every house. We all make mistakes, but we must learn from them. My first TT had the converter go out to no one's fault. No lose wires. Just something internal. I was able to get a replacement the next day and I was back in business. There isn't anything on these units we all couldn't repair or replace if we want to. Just keep in mind what your skill level is. Electricity is scary to a lot of people so if you are not sure with it, get help.

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mlpeloquin

Well-known member
That is why I own several torque wrenches and a torque screwdriver. Retired engineer from a Military/NASA contractor. It is important to put a fastener in its spring tension band. Without doing so it will loosen or if over torqued it will also loosen. A properly torqued fastener is better than one with a lock washer. Note that an over torqued lock washer will also fail.
 

donr827

Well-known member
Very interesting information by the experts. Never heard about using a torque wrench on electrical work but I am not a electrician.
Don
 

danemayer

Well-known member
I had an electrician installing 50 amp service to our RV lots last Fall. He wasn't using a torque wrench on anything. And I'd be surprised if anyone has ever seen any electrician carrying or using a torque wrench. There might be someone, somewhere, but I'll bet it's pretty uncommon.

And as I think about it, if electrical safety in our RVs and homes relies on precisely torquing every connection, then I would say that electrical equipment is fundamentally unsafe and we should go back to oil lamps and wood stoves. :rolleyes:
 

porthole

Retired
Same thing with tires...how many tire shops toque the lug nuts?

When I had my original G-114's installed at Trailer Tire and Wheel, Scott, the owner at the time used a torque wrench. I questioned him on that and his reply was that the tire shops in his market had made it a practice trying to minimize government intervention.

- - - Updated - - -

And I'd be surprised if anyone has ever seen any electrician carrying or using a torque wrench. There might be someone, somewhere, but I'll bet it's pretty uncommon.


Might be, but the electrician I work for on occasion does.

He is also a local inspector and on occasion will check the work of contractors fro proper torque.
That said, he fails more contractors then he does homeowners doing their own work.
 

wdk450

Well-known member
I had an electrician installing 50 amp service to our RV lots last Fall. He wasn't using a torque wrench on anything. And I'd be surprised if anyone has ever seen any electrician carrying or using a torque wrench. There might be someone, somewhere, but I'll bet it's pretty uncommon . . . .

:rolleyes:

At the University Medical Center where I worked, I never recall seeing the electricians using a torque measuring device, but I DO remember seeing routine scans of the breaker panels with thermal imaging devices to find hot breakers and hot connections before they caused bigger problems.
 
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