VMooreSR
Well-known member
Jerrod, here’s one that you don’t have to fumble around the screen door. http://www.zarcor.com/rv_products/rv-door-window-kit/
Vince
A running List of Corrections / Mods
- Thread starter 2019_V22
- Start date
Jerrod, here’s one that you don’t have to fumble around the screen door. http://www.zarcor.com/rv_products/rv-door-window-kit/
Vince
TravelTiger
Founding Texas-West Chapter Leaders-Retired
Yes I love my Zarcor! Replace the glass with clear, and it's very easy to see between the slats in the open position.
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2019_V22
Well-known member
Yes correct.
Unless you prefer this style, which allows you to operate their design using the access slide on the screen door.
https://www.amazon.com/CloZures-Con...&qid=1550208428&sr=8-3&keywords=rv+slim+shade
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Their site is not the best, and I haven't called them to understand if they sell to the public. I always prefer to go straight to the manufacture for any parts or accessories over a dealer. It never ceases to amaze me how much stuff Camco offers for instance.
Here is their catalog link.
http://approducts.net/catalogs.htm
2019_V22
Well-known member
Who doesn't like over countertop lighting?
Well, I added LED tape to the underside of the window ledge. Not the exact coverage over the countertop I wanted, but given the limited place to affix the LED's and keep them completely out of view even when seated. they"ll do.
A matching double switch, and spacer plate, as used in the bedroom was ordered from Heartland, and replaced the existing single switch for the blue countertop lights. Wiring was very tricky. I had to pull out excess LED countertop wire from the wall in the corner where it came out, cut it and use that as my fish tape. A coat hanger wasn't working. From there the wires were run into the cabinet and along the back wall under the cooktop, continuing under the countertop through an existing gap, and into the cabinet space under the window. From there a hole was drilled just under the countertop below the outlet, the wire was fished up through the removed outlet, a channel cut in the wall board, then secured to the underside of the window sill shelf. Due to extra framework, and structural work in that area, this was the only way to get wiring up there.
Matching wall seam tape will be ordered and will make the channel disappear. A dimmer was added at the corner of the window sill, a disconnect plug in the center where the two window sills meet, and another disconnect plug on the right where the dimmer is. This will allow removal of either window sill assembly.
Seam tape and wall paper has arrived.
Well, I added LED tape to the underside of the window ledge. Not the exact coverage over the countertop I wanted, but given the limited place to affix the LED's and keep them completely out of view even when seated. they"ll do.
A matching double switch, and spacer plate, as used in the bedroom was ordered from Heartland, and replaced the existing single switch for the blue countertop lights. Wiring was very tricky. I had to pull out excess LED countertop wire from the wall in the corner where it came out, cut it and use that as my fish tape. A coat hanger wasn't working. From there the wires were run into the cabinet and along the back wall under the cooktop, continuing under the countertop through an existing gap, and into the cabinet space under the window. From there a hole was drilled just under the countertop below the outlet, the wire was fished up through the removed outlet, a channel cut in the wall board, then secured to the underside of the window sill shelf. Due to extra framework, and structural work in that area, this was the only way to get wiring up there.
Matching wall seam tape will be ordered and will make the channel disappear. A dimmer was added at the corner of the window sill, a disconnect plug in the center where the two window sills meet, and another disconnect plug on the right where the dimmer is. This will allow removal of either window sill assembly.
Seam tape and wall paper has arrived.
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2019_V22
Well-known member
The trailer got used for the first time last weekend. Seemed to perform well, and was very functional. My fridge mod worked out great. I plan to use my data logger and get some real numbers on cooling speed and efficiency.
While driving to the state park, it was raining, so driving head on into the rain revealed a windshield leak, are you listening Heartland? All 3 panels had fine beads of water running in from the top. Further inspection after the window sill was removed, showed that it's been leaking since before I purchased it. I've spoken to the dealer, it appears they will work with me in getting this resolved. The nearest Heartland dealer is at least 1.5 - 2 hours away. Siting in my driveway awaiting dryer ground so I can finish the carport expansion. it's been rained on a fair amount, and no leaks while sitting there.
While driving to the state park, it was raining, so driving head on into the rain revealed a windshield leak, are you listening Heartland? All 3 panels had fine beads of water running in from the top. Further inspection after the window sill was removed, showed that it's been leaking since before I purchased it. I've spoken to the dealer, it appears they will work with me in getting this resolved. The nearest Heartland dealer is at least 1.5 - 2 hours away. Siting in my driveway awaiting dryer ground so I can finish the carport expansion. it's been rained on a fair amount, and no leaks while sitting there.
2019_V22
Well-known member
Simple quickie adjustment. It required adding slack to the water line, of which I was going to add a shut off. Some of the parts I bought did not work, I left myself with a brass PEX coupling I can replace with a shut off later. With the toilette square in that small of a space, it makes it crammed to use. Rotated away from the wall, this gives more comfort space. I wanted to rotate a little more, but I was at the end of the flange bolt slots. My black system is still new, and has not been used yet.
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2019_V22
Well-known member
It never dawned on me that my bathroom door was hinged backwards, even after reading other peoples posts about how the door won't open when the jackknife sofa is in use. One could argue that the door swing is a mere preference. It finally registered after recently seeing the Heartland floor plan pic which showed the door hinged on the right. A fairly simple fix to rotate 90 degrees, and swap jamb trims.
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2019_V22
Well-known member
The simple bi-metal magnetic furnace thermostat is pretty basic, and didn't offer a decent room thermometer. My search kept coming up empty for a simple 12V digital non battery furnace only thermostat. I called Dometic, and ended up doing the entire Furnace/AC upgrade.
This consists of adding the supplementary electric heat to the rooftop unit, a digital thermostat, a new control box, and a replacement non mechanical (knobs) ADB (air distribution box).
The challenge was thermostat wiring, knowing that I was already equipped with a 7 conductor thermostat wire from the furnace to the thermostat, If I could access it I would be good. The new control box requires the AC 110V, and DC 12V fed directly to it, it then distributes the 12V to the furnace, and thermostat. Luckily I located the thermostat wire in the ceiling over the pass speaker, from here I pulled a separate 8 conductor thermostat wire from the AC unit to the speaker through the ceiling. This allowed me to "T" into the existing wiring and allow everything to happen. Within Dometic's design of the foam enclosure, a pocket was intentionally made to house the control box. The 110V had to be extended too. Everything is now controlled from the wall thermostat, no more knobs on the interior portion of the AC unit. The thermostat will operate the electric heat in the rooftop unit, the furnace, and the air conditioner, it requires no batteries, and has a NV (non volatile) memory. This particular kit did not offer a Bluetooth thermostat, but a stand alone Bluetooth thermostat can be purchased and swapped out with the current one.
Part# 3314998.000
Part# 3314850.000
Part# 3316232.000
Temp readout not photographing well, but is very visible.
This consists of adding the supplementary electric heat to the rooftop unit, a digital thermostat, a new control box, and a replacement non mechanical (knobs) ADB (air distribution box).
The challenge was thermostat wiring, knowing that I was already equipped with a 7 conductor thermostat wire from the furnace to the thermostat, If I could access it I would be good. The new control box requires the AC 110V, and DC 12V fed directly to it, it then distributes the 12V to the furnace, and thermostat. Luckily I located the thermostat wire in the ceiling over the pass speaker, from here I pulled a separate 8 conductor thermostat wire from the AC unit to the speaker through the ceiling. This allowed me to "T" into the existing wiring and allow everything to happen. Within Dometic's design of the foam enclosure, a pocket was intentionally made to house the control box. The 110V had to be extended too. Everything is now controlled from the wall thermostat, no more knobs on the interior portion of the AC unit. The thermostat will operate the electric heat in the rooftop unit, the furnace, and the air conditioner, it requires no batteries, and has a NV (non volatile) memory. This particular kit did not offer a Bluetooth thermostat, but a stand alone Bluetooth thermostat can be purchased and swapped out with the current one.
Part# 3314998.000
Part# 3314850.000
Part# 3316232.000
Temp readout not photographing well, but is very visible.
2019_V22
Well-known member
A porch light was also added. An easy install as the light was installed just above and off to one side slightly from the main interior switch panel. There are blank spots left from prototype, and the V21 designs. One is labeled Wall Light, this will be used to power the light. Solid construction, metal base, heavy poly carbonate lens, and water proof. I think it may be very bright, but it can serve as not only a porch light, but a flood light. A dimmer can be added later if needed.
https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Lighting/Optronics/UCL41CB.html
https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Lighting/Optronics/UCL41CB.html
2019_V22
Well-known member
An update to the porch light, very bright, will double as a flood/security light, and porch light. A dimmer with an off setting was added to control the light for now. Walt at KIB who made the switch panel was very helpful and got me squared away with a couple panel switches, and blank plates that were made for my convenience panel. I have ordered a PIR motion sensor, this will be added on the exterior near the new LED light, inside a new rocker switch will fill the current place of where the dimmer which is installed into the "Wall Light" location. The dimmer will be neatly moved above the top row of switches.
The rocker will be a on, on switch with no off. Up for on, down for on. In the up setting voltage will be fed to the motion sensor, in the down setting voltage will be fed to the dimmer, which has it's own off setting, this will allow full dual purpose of the new LED fixture. Additionally when the awning is out, the new light will reflect off the white underside, can be controlled, and will really add to task lighting.
The rocker will be a on, on switch with no off. Up for on, down for on. In the up setting voltage will be fed to the motion sensor, in the down setting voltage will be fed to the dimmer, which has it's own off setting, this will allow full dual purpose of the new LED fixture. Additionally when the awning is out, the new light will reflect off the white underside, can be controlled, and will really add to task lighting.
2019_V22
Well-known member
Progressive Industries Surge Protector added.
A surge protector has been on the list, and was finally added. This unit offers a few nice features. On my last and first trip using the Terry at a state park, I detected a foul odor on the last day while packing up. It was coming from the under bed storage area, and only detectable from the rear door. It bothered me, but I couldn't find the source. Once I opened things up to install the surge protector it all became clear.
Now keep in mind, I went over this trailer within the first few weeks checking all systems out. I have a 28 year background in HVAC, and appliance service. When I found all the 110v terminal lugs loose within the converter panel, which required tightening, I turned my sights to the shore connect J box. Those wire nutted connections were loose too. I thought I was satisfied with just snugging the wire nuts, and never removed them to see how much wire was actually made available when the casing was stripped back. In stating the facts, there was not enough wire made avail to create a strong connection within the wire nut. This is the reason the neutral wire and nut had badly burnt under the load of the electric water heater.
To add insult to injury, the surge protector was wired backwards from the factory, and verified when I called the following morning. So when I reluctantly connected against the wiring diagram it didn't work. So I followed my electrical expertise and simply wired it based on the contactor designators.
A surge protector has been on the list, and was finally added. This unit offers a few nice features. On my last and first trip using the Terry at a state park, I detected a foul odor on the last day while packing up. It was coming from the under bed storage area, and only detectable from the rear door. It bothered me, but I couldn't find the source. Once I opened things up to install the surge protector it all became clear.
Now keep in mind, I went over this trailer within the first few weeks checking all systems out. I have a 28 year background in HVAC, and appliance service. When I found all the 110v terminal lugs loose within the converter panel, which required tightening, I turned my sights to the shore connect J box. Those wire nutted connections were loose too. I thought I was satisfied with just snugging the wire nuts, and never removed them to see how much wire was actually made available when the casing was stripped back. In stating the facts, there was not enough wire made avail to create a strong connection within the wire nut. This is the reason the neutral wire and nut had badly burnt under the load of the electric water heater.
To add insult to injury, the surge protector was wired backwards from the factory, and verified when I called the following morning. So when I reluctantly connected against the wiring diagram it didn't work. So I followed my electrical expertise and simply wired it based on the contactor designators.
2019_V22
Well-known member
The 2 sided bed facing is slowly becoming a sore spot.
Access to the under bed storage area, and required access to the water heater and plumbing under the mattress, as required to inspect for leaks after connecting to a city water source, or using the fresh water system, is taking a toll on the 2 sided panel facing. The panel has an unprotected edge which was already damaged upon purchase, and is susceptible to continued damage, as well as being easily loosened from the bed framing. A simple reinforcement using basic materials seems to be the ticket.
Access to the under bed storage area, and required access to the water heater and plumbing under the mattress, as required to inspect for leaks after connecting to a city water source, or using the fresh water system, is taking a toll on the 2 sided panel facing. The panel has an unprotected edge which was already damaged upon purchase, and is susceptible to continued damage, as well as being easily loosened from the bed framing. A simple reinforcement using basic materials seems to be the ticket.
2019_V22
Well-known member
I'm great-full to some of the sub manufactures that I have contacted directly about their products, like KIB, I expressed my needs for specific a switch that fit the OE opening on my convenience panel, calling Heartland would not have worked as the switch was not part of my original build. The porchlight dimmer/motion sensor will take some special bits to complete.
2019_V22
Well-known member
Finally finished the PIR motion sensor location and install today. I had already done trial testing above the door. The front bezel with lens is made to twist off so you can access the LUX, and delay settings. I was able to snap out the retaining ring from the bezel releasing the domed lens so I could paint the bezel ring grey. Since future access may be needed, I decided to cut a hole in the wall over the door, which will be covered by a blank plate covered in the matching wallpaper. The proper rocker switch obtained from KIB was snapped into the unused location marked "Wall Light", the on/on rocker switches between either the motion control, or the dimmer function. Both functions are completely independent.
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2019_V22
Well-known member
Additionally I was able to correct the labeling of the tanks. One of my grey tanks was labeled as both sewer connect, and waste water tank, while the actual black tank was labeled as grey tank2. This was an issue I found mentioned by others in this forum prior to my purchase. I contacted Heartland direct, sent them pics, and they sent me new decals. Two of the tank level sensor wires needed to be reversed too. My forward tank is a grey tank, my middle tank is a grey tank, and the rearward tank is the black tank. The 2 forward grey tanks are combined with a y pipe and 2 gate valves. The forward tank was connected to the "Grey Tank 2" monitor, and the middle tank was connected to the "Grey Tank 1" monitor. I felt the forward should be #1, and the middle should be #2. Trivial, but the exterior labels are printed to say Grey1, and Grey2. In the end everything should jive and be properly labeled.
2019_V22
Well-known member
An additional cooling fan was added to the provided slot on the Dometic fridge. The T/T was used in March and the weather was really nice, mid 70's. Not even in summer yet, and the condenser thermostat was looking for additional cooling bringing on the single equipped fan. It never hurts to have additional cooling. Combined, the printed load amperage of both fans is still under the circuit fuse rating.
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