A running List of Corrections / Mods
- Thread starter 2019_V22
- Start date
2019_V22
Well-known member
Finally got the time to replace the restrictive shower rod with the "Extend a Shower" model by Stomberg Carlson Products. I chose the larger of the 2 sizes.
https://www.strombergcarlson.com/product/extend-a-shower-for-35-to-42-openings/
There was some doubt about the geometry and weather it would work or not, these are really made for a lengthwise, on one wall unit. I managed success just fine. Although not able to completely fold it into the shower area due to the length I cut the center bar to, I can always take a little more off later. Either I give myself a little more usable shower space and not have it fold in all the way, or I give myself a little less and it folds in all the way. The way it folds in now seems to be just fine anyway. I'll be adding a a Beckson Clip Mate to both walls anyway to snap the stowed rod in place while under way. All the folding joints are very fluid and it will swing around on it's own when traveling. I sourced a 4" x 1/8" x 72" aluminum flat bar to secure across multiple wall studs as the rod needs a solid mounting. All screw holes were countersunk. Once wall papered it turned out as I expected.
https://www.strombergcarlson.com/product/extend-a-shower-for-35-to-42-openings/
There was some doubt about the geometry and weather it would work or not, these are really made for a lengthwise, on one wall unit. I managed success just fine. Although not able to completely fold it into the shower area due to the length I cut the center bar to, I can always take a little more off later. Either I give myself a little more usable shower space and not have it fold in all the way, or I give myself a little less and it folds in all the way. The way it folds in now seems to be just fine anyway. I'll be adding a a Beckson Clip Mate to both walls anyway to snap the stowed rod in place while under way. All the folding joints are very fluid and it will swing around on it's own when traveling. I sourced a 4" x 1/8" x 72" aluminum flat bar to secure across multiple wall studs as the rod needs a solid mounting. All screw holes were countersunk. Once wall papered it turned out as I expected.
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2019_V22
Well-known member
Added a nice Caframo SiroccoII 12/24v marine fan w/3 Speeds, and 4 timer settings, and gimbaled design. Mounted it to the bedroom corner to allow the fan to move air in the bedroom, or entry way depending on where you aim it. The fan has some weight, so mounting to the corner 2x2 was the proper thing to do. Fished the wire down the wall and tapped in to the double bedroom switch hot side for power.
https://www.caframolifestylesolutions.com/product/marine/sirocco-ii/
https://www.caframolifestylesolutions.com/product/marine/sirocco-ii/
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2019_V22
Well-known member
I found the cheapest on Amazon. There are more than one seller on Amazon too. I use Caframo products for my boats, and I like their quality. That fan is avail in black or white, and auto senses 12/24 volts D/C. It doesn't move an enormous amount of air, but I mainly installed it for nights when the air becomes still, and either the furnace or A/C are set to run and you would not have an open window, in that case it seems it would be more than sufficient to do the job.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LDY4TE4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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2019_V22
Well-known member
After returning from a July 4th trip for 3 days, 5 hours from home, I noticed the Dicor sealant was simply peeling away from the roof at the base of the antenna, and frontal roof vent over the kitchen. Unbelievable! I'm debating stripping the entire roof and sheeting it with aluminum, or stainless. That will be a future contemplation. In the meantime since I have to disturb the vent to make the repair, I decided to replace the vent all together with the Maxxair Maxxfan Deluxe unit.
Amazingly getting the rest of the Dicor off around the sides, and rear took some time. New butyl tape @ 1" was used under the vent install flange. The install was very simple. I was waiting on the Dicor sealant in the caulk tube to arrive so I screwed the install collar in with only 4 screws so I could pre-fit and test everything. This allowed me to understand that the interior garnish trim didn't need to be trimmed down at all due to the ceiling thickness, and that the remote control would only successfully communicate with the fan unit when directly under it, as the I/R sensor is part of the keypad. A simple fix to this was to take apart a completely new product and modify it. The worse case scenario would be that the I/R sensor, or board would be too weak to communicate, or the extra wire would cause too much resistance in the circuit. I cut the I/R sensor off the board leaving half of the metal leads behind, and simply added wires to all 3 legs soldering at both ends, and using shrink tube to keep things neat and the wires from touching. The result was the ability to use the remote in all open areas of the trailer with out fail. The Dicor sealer that arrived was the Non Sag, Non Leveling flavor, not what I wanted, I used a small amount of that to get it started, and will buy the proper self leveling. The T/T is parked under a carport, so I have all the time I need.
Removal
Pre-Fit, and held in by a few screws
Sensor removed, extension wires added
Extension complete
Ready to put back together
Day 2, wrong sealer arrived, final install underway
Testing location of I/R sensor on the side face of the garnish trim
Testing location of I/R sensor at an angle on the curve of the garnish trim
Best location was at an angle on the curve
Interior install complete
Exterior almost complete, awaiting self leveling Dicor sealant
Amazingly getting the rest of the Dicor off around the sides, and rear took some time. New butyl tape @ 1" was used under the vent install flange. The install was very simple. I was waiting on the Dicor sealant in the caulk tube to arrive so I screwed the install collar in with only 4 screws so I could pre-fit and test everything. This allowed me to understand that the interior garnish trim didn't need to be trimmed down at all due to the ceiling thickness, and that the remote control would only successfully communicate with the fan unit when directly under it, as the I/R sensor is part of the keypad. A simple fix to this was to take apart a completely new product and modify it. The worse case scenario would be that the I/R sensor, or board would be too weak to communicate, or the extra wire would cause too much resistance in the circuit. I cut the I/R sensor off the board leaving half of the metal leads behind, and simply added wires to all 3 legs soldering at both ends, and using shrink tube to keep things neat and the wires from touching. The result was the ability to use the remote in all open areas of the trailer with out fail. The Dicor sealer that arrived was the Non Sag, Non Leveling flavor, not what I wanted, I used a small amount of that to get it started, and will buy the proper self leveling. The T/T is parked under a carport, so I have all the time I need.
Removal
Pre-Fit, and held in by a few screws
Sensor removed, extension wires added
Extension complete
Ready to put back together
Day 2, wrong sealer arrived, final install underway
Testing location of I/R sensor on the side face of the garnish trim
Testing location of I/R sensor at an angle on the curve of the garnish trim
Best location was at an angle on the curve
Interior install complete
Exterior almost complete, awaiting self leveling Dicor sealant
2019_V22
Well-known member
A few more piddly things added.
The rear baggage door was never equipped with a stay, kinda getting old using my head to hold it open. I removed the stay from the passenger side and installed it on the rear door, purchased a magnetic one for the side door.
Bumping into the entry door was becoming a regular thing, and it really takes up space under the awning when open. The ability to unsnap the gas strut at the threshold allows the entry door to open all the way to the tire, so a stainless prop was added, the piece that inserts into the strike is spring loaded to prevent it from slapping around while under way.
The rear baggage door was never equipped with a stay, kinda getting old using my head to hold it open. I removed the stay from the passenger side and installed it on the rear door, purchased a magnetic one for the side door.
Bumping into the entry door was becoming a regular thing, and it really takes up space under the awning when open. The ability to unsnap the gas strut at the threshold allows the entry door to open all the way to the tire, so a stainless prop was added, the piece that inserts into the strike is spring loaded to prevent it from slapping around while under way.
mlpeloquin
Well-known member
You better do a weight analysis on that metal roof or even fiberglass.
2019_V22
Well-known member
The additional weight per Sq Ft with thin sheeting would not be of concern. If I decide to add a solar system, then I'll be looking to upgrade the axle. The current weight rating on the axle doesn't leave much room for more. I'll be moving to a Class A diesel in roughly 5 - 10 years for possible full time living, so I'm limiting add-ons to this T/T.
2019_V22
Well-known member
More frivolous spending. 
A few reading lights added for the convenience and functionality, literally an all day job as 3 out of 4 were wired within the walls and out of sight factory style.
An Amazon special, sold individually, are 12v, LED, dim-able, and touch activated, the blue accent locator light can be turned off too.
Using power from the bathroom switch bank, access was made creating a hole on the side of the medicine cabinet once removed.
Jackknife sofa moved to run wiring for the right hand light which is mounted to the side of the fridge cabinet
No other option but to staple along the wall, then be hidden by the sofa once installed.
Best option was to use existing power contained in the lower cabinets, run left and right and down.
A few reading lights added for the convenience and functionality, literally an all day job as 3 out of 4 were wired within the walls and out of sight factory style.
An Amazon special, sold individually, are 12v, LED, dim-able, and touch activated, the blue accent locator light can be turned off too.
Using power from the bathroom switch bank, access was made creating a hole on the side of the medicine cabinet once removed.
Jackknife sofa moved to run wiring for the right hand light which is mounted to the side of the fridge cabinet
No other option but to staple along the wall, then be hidden by the sofa once installed.
Best option was to use existing power contained in the lower cabinets, run left and right and down.
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2019_V22
Well-known member
Added a matching USB charger under the TV next to the outlet, this one is in addition to the supplied bedroom one.
- - - Updated - - -
Decided to add a matching puck light to the underside of the cabinet over the cook-top, this should provide excellent dedicated light over the cook-top. Power was taken from the puck light to the right over the dinette.
- - - Updated - - -
Decided to add a matching puck light to the underside of the cabinet over the cook-top, this should provide excellent dedicated light over the cook-top. Power was taken from the puck light to the right over the dinette.
2019_V22
Well-known member
Purchased a matching cabinet door, hinges, and knob from Heartland so I can access the storage space under the bed without lifting the mattress every time. A few finishing touches will be done to the cutout to improve the look, and prevent the edges of the panel board from being bruised. A while back I had seen a member do the same to their V21, I had already been thinking it was needed.
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TravelTiger
Founding Texas-West Chapter Leaders-Retired
Nice work!
Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn
Well-known member
Looking good !!!
Keep it up
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
Keep it up
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
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