You mean I was supposed to open them?????????Crap............I gotta go now.....
Peace
Dave
AC air flow problem SOLVED
- Thread starter timk
- Start date
You mean I was supposed to open them?????????Crap............I gotta go now.....
Peace
Dave
JohnDar
Prolifically Gabby Member
Probably a few more to cut the pain from cutting your fingers while cutting the cans, no??
SouthernNights
Past South Carolina Chapter Leader
Crap............I gotta go now.....
Peace
Dave
Yes Dave, they were suppossed to be empty otherwise there is too much weight in the ceiling and the trailer may roll over from too high center of gravity. Sheesh-you gotta tell some people everything.
Stinger381
Well-known member
Well I have trouble shot the reason why my bedroom is so hot! I'm really not happy about it either!! My Sundance 3300 RLB had very low air flow on the off-door side and I couldn't understand why? It's also the only duct that goes into the bedroom area in the front of the camper. I tried the diverter trick but wasn't sure it would work since mine is a Carrier unit but it appears to be the same layout and I thought I'd try it! Well it did help a little to get more air in the door side but still not the off-door side. So I adjusted the diverter over some to get more air going towards the off-door side. I still couldn't get any air flow but the rear room had a ton of air blowing through the off-door side. I blocked off the vent to see if I could force more to the other vents on that side of the camper. Still no luck! I decided to check the ducts for blockages and realized the duct work isn't made of Metal at all! The ducts are made of a insulating material that reminds me of a disposable diaper ( I don't know what it is ) ! The material was sagging in the ducts and blocking the vents. So I took strips of cardboard and taped them up for strength and slid them down the sides of the ducts to support the sidewalls and to open up the vents. I now have air flow that is pretty decent but how would Heartland fix this ??? I don't want a camper that the roof has been removed from because you know it will never be the same again and it will leak soon! I'm starting to think that I might have bought a lemon of a camper with all the problems I'm having! Why is the duct work not made of sheet metal ??? Are they cutting corners ???
In working on my air flow problem I too was surprised that the ducts extended past the last vent in the living room and bedroom. I have blocked them off after the vents in the living room and still need to do the same in the bedroom. I did the tent modification and this made a big difference in air flow. I have 2 A/C units and the one in the bedroom does a great job cooling the bedroom and bathroom. So I am going to block the air flow behind the last vents in the main part of the unit going to the bedroom to force the air out at that point. But will do it in such a way that it is easy to remove if I only have 30 amp service and need to restore the flow to the bedroom and bath.
ChopperBill
Well-known member
I thought the ducts were suppose to extend beyond the vents. Some kind of theory about balancing the air flow. A heating a A/C guru might chime in. It does seem like making a little curved whoppie at the last vent would do some good. Was there noticeable improvement by stopping the flow at the vents?
Ray LeTourneau
Senior Member - Past Moderator
Chopper, consider this. In a home with a fan forced air system, the ducts end into the room. I think it's safe to say it won't do any harm to do it in an RV environment either. I have done it along with many others and I feel the improvement is considerable.
jpajax
Well-known member
stinger381 I see that you have the Carrier unit but don,t see what year camper you have. If you have the newer unit with the new laminated roof I can just about guarantee that the gasket between the intake and out put is not sealed. The tent mod didn't work well with mine ether. The biggest thing was the gasket, and blocking off the end of duct in bedroom help but did nothing for living room. It seems that the new roofs are thicker than the older units and Carrier didn't have a large enough seal too seal off the two openings.
Stinger381
Well-known member
Mine is 2010 Sundance 3300 RLB unit. I haven't even checked that seal but to be perfectly honest I don't know how to tell if it's leaking or not ??? What did you do to fix it Jpajax ??
kellyboy
Member
Tim
Great idea with the "tent in a vent". I posted a question about poor airflow in the duct system and was directed to this thread. I couldn't wait to try it out so i went searching for something i could use to create a tent in the vent. I tore off a piece of cardboard off a box that a case of shotgun shells come in. It is about 12-14 inches long. it folds into a tent nicely and hold its shape. It was enough to allow me to test this on my Landmark. I taped one end of the cardboard to the bottom of the off door duct opening, created a tent shape and taped the other end to the floor, so to speed of the vent. The top of my tent protrudes up into the opening where the cool air comes down. It sent part of the air flow right down the off door duct system. Increased my air flow probably 3X. It slightly improved the door side duct system but lucky enough the off door side includes the vents over the bed. Way to go Tim. I have only been a member of this forum for about a week and it has proved to be very helpful.
Thanks again
Great idea with the "tent in a vent". I posted a question about poor airflow in the duct system and was directed to this thread. I couldn't wait to try it out so i went searching for something i could use to create a tent in the vent. I tore off a piece of cardboard off a box that a case of shotgun shells come in. It is about 12-14 inches long. it folds into a tent nicely and hold its shape. It was enough to allow me to test this on my Landmark. I taped one end of the cardboard to the bottom of the off door duct opening, created a tent shape and taped the other end to the floor, so to speed of the vent. The top of my tent protrudes up into the opening where the cool air comes down. It sent part of the air flow right down the off door duct system. Increased my air flow probably 3X. It slightly improved the door side duct system but lucky enough the off door side includes the vents over the bed. Way to go Tim. I have only been a member of this forum for about a week and it has proved to be very helpful.
Thanks again
avvidclif
Well-known member
The theory (according to AC installation books) is if a duct ends at a vent the air will exit there reducing pressure to the other vents, and it does as others have proved. The reason for the extension after the last duct is the airflow gets to the end of the run and reverses. That equalizes the pressure in the entire duct therefore all have the same airflow. As they say the devil is in the details. That would work fine in a perfectly sealed duct where the only exits are the vents. In the swiss chese ductwork in an rv it sometimes doesn't work too well. I would spend all my time sealing up the existing ductwork as much as possible. Force the air to equalize in all of the vents/
Spend that 2 cents worth wisely.
GeorgeCano
Member
I have also faced this problem.
Re: meanderingman
When you say "plugged the vent", what method of plugging did you use and what materials were used? Much thanks.
When you say "plugged the vent", what method of plugging did you use and what materials were used? Much thanks.
Garypowell
Well-known member
I have a 2013 coach built in 2012 and noticed cold air coming out of the ceiling light holes when I pulled them down to put in LED’s. Concluded the ends of my ductwork must not be sealed so I used that silver sticky tape that is used to hold a/c and furnace duct together. Put it (from the inside) after the last vent. Placed it starting at the bottom of the duct and the connected it to the top of the duct. Each piece was not a perfect seal with the last one but once you double it up....you’ll get a seal.
This gave me better airflow and cooling in the coach.
To easily split my front and back a/c systems I use custom cut styrofoam noodles from w mart. Easy to put in and remove depending on outside temperature and need.
This gave me better airflow and cooling in the coach.
To easily split my front and back a/c systems I use custom cut styrofoam noodles from w mart. Easy to put in and remove depending on outside temperature and need.
good stuff, thank you.
carl.swoyer
Well-known member
Re: meanderingman
Mine was leaking so bad the condensation was running through my ceiling and dripping wet at the seams.
Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
Apparently not much has changed since 2012!
Mine was leaking so bad the condensation was running through my ceiling and dripping wet at the seams.
Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
Just wanted to thank the op for the heads up. Out of curiosity I opened up all 3 of the 15k ac units yesterday. Wow it was like last day Friday everywhere. Holes in the aluminum tape, rubber roof covering the opening, air divider from supply to return bypassing air. It was all bad!!
I took the op’s original design and made up a sheet metal divider. But only after taping and duct sealing everything!! I went so far as to fully block the blast opening and push all air down the ductwork. Soon to install better registers and a few more.
Found install to show 4-8 registers on ductwork for 1 ac. Gotta love it when 2 are running then and nowhere for the air to go.
Btw the cyclone ducting at each ac is 1-1/4 x 8 on both sides.
Attached a few pics of the divider and final closeup.
Thanks again
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
I took the op’s original design and made up a sheet metal divider. But only after taping and duct sealing everything!! I went so far as to fully block the blast opening and push all air down the ductwork. Soon to install better registers and a few more.
Found install to show 4-8 registers on ductwork for 1 ac. Gotta love it when 2 are running then and nowhere for the air to go.
Btw the cyclone ducting at each ac is 1-1/4 x 8 on both sides.
Attached a few pics of the divider and final closeup.
Thanks again
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Flooringit
Well-known member
I did something similar. I took a piece of sheet metal and bent it and cut it so it’s goes straight to it the vent the flow out vents is much better. I also took off all aluminum tape and put up sheets of metal and screwed them to the frame. Then I put gorilla tape in the corners. It’s sealed grewt now. Unfortunately I’m gonna have to replace the ac unit the condenser keeps freezing up in the middle no clue why.
I’m gonna block off the vents In The middle between rooms. When the living room ac is on I can feel small amounts of air coming out in the bedroom vents. That’s when I don’t even have the valve closed on the ac. Lots of wasted air. I also notice that when ran through vents the air stays the same longer it don’t kick on and off as much.
I’m gonna block off the vents In The middle between rooms. When the living room ac is on I can feel small amounts of air coming out in the bedroom vents. That’s when I don’t even have the valve closed on the ac. Lots of wasted air. I also notice that when ran through vents the air stays the same longer it don’t kick on and off as much.
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