Adding A Bike Rack

[Go-Fly]

Nothing new here. Using the two flanges that are welded to the frame to bolt a bike rack to. Cut two 1/4"x4"x16" plates and drilled the holes to align with the flanges holes on the trailer frame. Bolted the plates on and tack welded the cross bars in place. I'm good with a tape measure but, there is no way I could get eight holes to line up. Used .095x2"x2" for the cross members to keep weight down. The stinger is 1/8"x2"x2" and layed on top of the cross members. I don't have to do all the fish plating by doing this. One small fish plate on the back. Very strong and very lite. I'll weld the bike rack onto the stinger next.

 

[Bones]

Looks real good

 

[Oregon_Camper]

You don't have hydraulic jacks on your Bighorn? Not sure what type of support jack I see in this picture?? More like a stabilizer.

 

[Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn]

Looks good. Post pictures when it's done.

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[Go-Fly]

You don't have hydraulic jacks on your Bighorn? Not sure what type of support jack I see in this picture?? More like a stabilizer.

I ordered it without the six point level system. The landing gear is hydraulic. It came with one leaking jack and it took seven months to get a new one. Now the second jack is leaking. I'm way under weight for the jacks. I was at a RV show before I bought my Bighorn. There were ten used trailers with six point systems and there were ten trailers with leaking jacks. Just not the direction I wanted to go.

 

[Oregon_Camper]

I ordered it without the six point level system. The landing gear is hydraulic. It came with one leaking jack and it took seven months to get a new one. Now the second jack is leaking. I'm way under weight for the jacks. I was at a RV show before I bought my Bighorn. There were ten used trailers with six point systems and there were ten trailers with leaking jacks. Just not the direction I wanted to go.

Man..that really sucks!

I'll never have another RV without 6 point leveling. When it works (which I've never had an issue) it is complete game changer. Once unhooked, I just hit auto-level and start doing other stuff. About 30-45 seconds later it is done.

If you're anywhere close to Portland area, I have a GREAT RV guy....NOT a dealer. He is out in Dundee Oregon. Let me know and I can get you info.

 

[Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn]

I ordered it without the six point level system. The landing gear is hydraulic. It came with one leaking jack and it took seven months to get a new one. Now the second jack is leaking. I'm way under weight for the jacks. I was at a RV show before I bought my Bighorn. There were ten used trailers with six point systems and there were ten trailers with leaking jacks. Just not the direction I wanted to go.

There are thousand of them out there that don't leak. And I've seen only a few post from people with hose leaks.
I Love my Level-Up and will never own another RV without it.

 

[Go-Fly]

Man..that really sucks!

I'll never have another RV without 6 point leveling. When it works (which I've never had an issue) it is complete game changer. Once unhooked, I just hit auto-level and start doing other stuff. About 30-45 seconds later it is done.

If you're anywhere close to Portland area, I have a GREAT RV guy....NOT a dealer. He is out in Dundee Oregon. Let me know and I can get you info.

I can more then see the advantage of having a six point system. It's just a road I didn't want to go down because of other factors that apply to me. They work great for many people and that's a good thing. I'll be in Newburg in March. I'll drop you a PM when we are in town.

 

[Go-Fly]

There are thousand of them out there that don't leak. And I've seen only a few post from people with hose leaks.
I Love my Level-Up and will never own another RV without it.

My father had hydraulic systems on all four of his motor homes and it was the first thing he added if it wasn't an option. I don't want to talk bad about them because there is no cause for it. It's just not for me.

 

[farside291]

Those welds on the plates on the back of our units are not very good. Mine only had 3 tacks on each plate. When I added my hitch I bolted the hitch to the existing plates for measurement purposes and then unbolted and added an additional 6 inch long by 4 inch tall L bracket and welded it directly to the frame and bolted the hitch through that plate and the existing plate . Still removable but much stronger. Still I have never carried more than two bikes on the carrier. According to the DW who follows in her car very little movement.

 

[sengli]

I am not doubting your welding or structure on your added bike rack. I would say this, that there can be a serious amount of "bounce" at the rear of a fifth wheel going down the road. Not all units have this as bad, ours was severe. And that every bike rack manufacturer voids their warranty if that rack is mounted to the back of an RV, something I didnt know at first. I would have someone follow as you test tow and see how your bikes ride back there. I went thru two bike racks, and had the rear hitch heavily modified with more welds and re-enforcement. It still dropped our bikes 3x. We gave up on the rear hitch. I now have a curt 2" receiver bolted to my trucks front..and thats where I hand my bike rack now.

 

[Oregon_Camper]

I'll weld the bike rack onto the stinger next.

Might I suggest two things?

1 - Get (or make) a bike rack that hold the bike from underneath the tires vs hanging them from cross bars. This will help remove bounce.
2 - While you're building the rack/insert....use 2 stingers vs 1. This will all but eliminate rocking of the rack.

Shown below is my hitch, and you can see it has 3 inserts....I added the standard one in the middle at the last moment, but I've never used it.

 

[Go-Fly]

Those welds on the plates on the back of our units are not very good. Mine only had 3 tacks on each plate. When I added my hitch I bolted the hitch to the existing plates for measurement purposes and then unbolted and added an additional 6 inch long by 4 inch tall L bracket and welded it directly to the frame and bolted the hitch through that plate and the existing plate . Still removable but much stronger. Still I have never carried more than two bikes on the carrier. According to the DW who follows in her car very little movement.

I might of lucked out. They did a good job of welding mine on. Had to go out and check. May drill and run a 1/2" bolt or two up through them.

I am not doubting your welding or structure on your added bike rack. I would say this, that there can be a serious amount of "bounce" at the rear of a fifth wheel going down the road. Not all units have this as bad, ours was severe. And that every bike rack manufacturer voids their warranty if that rack is mounted to the back of an RV, something I didnt know at first. I would have someone follow as you test tow and see how your bikes ride back there. I went thru two bike racks, and had the rear hitch heavily modified with more welds and re-enforcement. It still dropped our bikes 3x. We gave up on the rear hitch. I now have a curt 2" receiver bolted to my trucks front..and thats where I hand my bike rack now.

I'm going to take it on a test run before I try those roads in California. Good to know about the warranty. Never would of thought to check that.

Might I suggest two things?

1 - Get (or make) a bike rack that hold the bike from underneath the tires vs hanging them from cross bars. This will help remove bounce.
2 - While you're building the rack/insert....use 2 stingers vs 1. This will all but eliminate rocking of the rack.

Shown below is my hitch, and you can see it has 3 inserts....I added the standard one in the middle at the last moment, but I've never used it.



View attachment 49243 View attachment 49244

My rack will hold the tires as well as the cross bars. Had planned on adding side supports after I got it mounted and fitted to the bikes. Not sure where they need to go until then. The 2" will hold most of the weight and I'll use 1 1/2" on each side. I'm holding less then a 100lb of bikes. Yours looks like you could put a motorbike up there. Thanks for the input. By the way, your tags are due.lol

 

[Oregon_Camper]

.....Yours looks like you could put a motorbike up there. Thanks for the input. By the way, your tags are due.lol

New tags are on my desk....trailer is in storage.

Yep...motorcycle rides there (and one in front of truck), and VERY stable per family member that followed me while towing on a 5 hour trip.

 

[Go-Fly]

New tags are on my desk....trailer is in storage.

Yep...motorcycle rides there (and one in front of truck), and VERY stable per family member that followed me while towing on a 5 hour trip.

View attachment 49249

Looks nice. I think the key is to keep the movement out of the mounts. We'll see if it will hold my body weight when done. That will be a true test of my welds.lol

 

[Go-Fly]

All welded up with a coat of paint. Two offsets raised the bike rack 7 inches. Ran some straps to tie in the angles of the offsets. From the bike rack frame down to to hard points were it bolts to the trailer frame is 1 1/8 x .083 square tubing. That down angle in compression will take out most of the torque and bounce. It's light enough that I can pick it up and bolt it on by myself. Then stood on it and it didn't move, solid as a rock. When it drys I'll get it bolted up to the trailer for good. Then finish putting the bike rack together.

 

[Bones]

looks real good

 

[Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn]

Looks good
Nice job

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