And so it begins

[Manke3010]

Whenever you're ready to sell your 3010 Duane, I think you'll have a lot of interested parties Wow, impressive mods you've done.

I'm also interested in what kakampers posted on costs of tires/rims if you don't mind.
I just noticed the drivers side front tires on the trailer is bubbling and ready to separate.
Got a couple questions....
Did you inquire with Towmax or HL about a warranty credit or anything of the sort? 1 year on these tires is unacceptable.
Also, did you consider going with the GY G614's on your factory rims? Does that application work?
I love the capacity (and look) of your new 17.5" rim setup, but if I could save some $ and still have a superior setup to the stock tires with the G614's, I'd prefer to go that route....just curious why you didn't go with those tires....

Thanks in advance

 

[porthole]

Whenever you're ready to sell your 3010 Duane, I think you'll have a lot of interested parties

Oh I don't know - anything "unboltable" probably would be.

Did you inquire with Towmax or HL about a warranty credit or anything of the sort? 1 year on these tires is unacceptable.

No, I did not inquire. It was 4pm before heading home from Goshen that I was made aware of the tire.
I had already gotten prices, figured on replacing everything before the start of next season. I will be calling Towmaster on Monday.

Also, did you consider going with the GY G614's on your factory rims? Does that application work?

Yes I did consider it. Factory rims are only rated for 80 psi, unless there has been a change. Easy way to get an idea ... how many spokes are your wheels (aluminum only)?
5 spokes - most likely 80 psi.

GY 614's are 110 psi - so you need new rims anyway.

I love the capacity (and look) of your new 17.5" rim setup, but if I could save some $ and still have a superior setup to the stock tires with the G614's, I'd prefer to go that route....just curious why you didn't go with those tires....

I like the wheels too. That is the newest design from the shop I dealt with. They only had 3 versions of 17.5's though.

I had gotten two quotes. The quote from Tredit was more ($534) for the 614's then the 114's from the shop I dealt with.

I think with the way the weight can vary on the 3010 with only 2 axles I have more flexibility with the 114's.

If it was a 3 axle rig I might given more consideration to the 614's. But I'm good with what I have now.

I would like to have the tire warrantied or whatever and then maybe sell off the set to recoup some $$$.

 

[porthole]

I added pictures to the LevelUp post.

//heartlandowners.org/showthread.php/11365-And-so-it-begins?p=137650&viewfull=1#post137650

I also ran the wires through the frame above the basement wall into the front compartment.


Anyone that had a Level Up I would highly suggest you look at every fitting you can get access to. I have already cleaned up and tightened 5 leaks.

 

[porthole]

Finally - found a place for a air hose reel! I bought a Porter Cable compressor when picking up the trailer, this one is rated at 150psi.

Since the basement wall was off for access with the Level Up install I finally found room. There is about 8-9 inches of space between the generator housing and trailer side wall.
I got the reel shown from Home Depot. Amflo reel with 50' of 3/8" hose and connector hose.

I removed the electric landing gear switch and cut in a door with rollers. I had this leftover from my power cord reel install.

I had some PEX tubing and fittings laying around so I piped the air line with it. Don't know how it will hold up, but in the 5 hour 150psi test it did fine. I double crimped each connection.

 

[jbeletti]

Love it Duane! Great mod.

 

[mrcomer]

You da man Duane. Nice job!

 

[Ray LeTourneau]

Nice job Duane. But it looks as if your about a half bubble off!!

 

[porthole]

Love it Duane! Great mod.

The reel?
Used it this weekend - worked great and the PEX held air. really came in handy now that I have an air ride pin box.

Nice job Duane. But it looks as if your about a half bubble off!!

I was Ray but I have "re-leveled" the "level up".

I had asked Bob Tige about "what is level" if you recall.
His version of level is his eggs stay in the center of the frying pan. Mine is that the AC water drains off the left rear corner.
Very easy to make this minor adjustment - especially compared to driving up on blocks.

 

[porthole]

I have a small 1500 winch on the floor along the ODS wall. You can see behind the motor a small "snatch" block I will use for a cable direction change. The cable runs out across the trailer to one of the tie down loops, snatch block snapped on to the tie down.
I ran a 10 gauge jacketed wire down the frame from the front battery compartment.

******
Will be making some changes here. For starters the winch is not big enough. Dry runs under ideal conditions in my driveway, pulling th 800 golf cart up worked fine, little slow but worked.

I used it this weekend, soggy ground, bit of a bump to get on the ramp, ramp a bit steeper then normal and pulling the bike instead of the cart.
I had to help it along with the bike's 100 horsepower. My goal is to have it be able to pull a not running 800+ motorcycle up the ramp.

Maybe if the cable was long enough I could have used a pulley to increase my mechanical advantage. The cable might have been long enough from the factory, but I had cut it to just be long enough to go a few feet past the ramp.

 

[porthole]

The latest installment will start with some "oops" or "don't try this at home"

1. I've probably brought the slides in and out a 100 times with no problem.
   For 101 I went and grabbed a screw gun from the cabinet and didn't shut the door. Crunch.
   
   Fortunately I had a spare door I had picked up in Elkhart for another project.
   
   .
2. Our "Heartland" name tags (we have a few) had some of the pins not sticking to the tag. Picked up a 4-pack of crazy glue. Took two out of the package and threw them on the counter for our upcoming trip. Well they are flimsy tubes and I cracked both of them. Both leaked on the counter top.
   
   I let it stay for a few weeks until it bothered me enough. I was able to get all the glue off with just carefully use of a razor blade. Looks good as new now
   
   .
3. As above I moved the slides in out many many times. We have a free standing dinette table that either slides along the floor while going in or just drops off the slide going out. Well this day was 100 degrees and I guess the floor was just a little too soft and the friction too much. The table leg grabbed the floor and put this approximate 2" by 2" tear in the floor. Right in the middle
   
   I used "Shoo Goo" for this fix. It worked but unfortunately I'll have a reminder now.
   
   .
4. Level UP works really great and fast. Something to keep in mind though, the system self levels by dropping the trailer first then raising to get a baseline. If your site is not level, higher in the front, the "drop down" may be exaggerated. And it will work quickly. This is my tailgate where just the tip if the pin box caught. I didn't think it would drop so low and didn't move fast enough to hit the "panic button".

 

[porthole]

I'm no "tin knocker" but here is my attempt to close in the electric power cord reel.

Didn't come out too bad and is painted satin black. And I do not have a brake !

 

[porthole]

Mud flaps

 

[porthole]

Added a door over the microwave. Got tired of stuff falling out. Wonder why this cabinet doesn't have a door from the factory.

 

[porthole]

I added a vent to the bedroom AC. And while doing so I found this neat heat strip wiring job (from the dealer).

Why would you not use a factory supplied knockout and instead choose to pinch a wire harness?

 

[porthole]

Added a ceiling vent in the living room and also did the tent in a vent.

I can say that using a portable wind meter that there was no improvement in the air flow (with the tent).

I will try and make a new piece with a different slope, but I think most of the claims may be just slightly exaggerated The digital meter shows it.

 

[porthole]

Had to go all the way to Elkhart to find my 3rd switch for my garage lights.
This one was a little special, a double throw single pole for the bunk beds.

This was changed out because I moved the wall switches up 5 inches to the pictured location to clear the dresser I installed. This set also replaces 2 different switch assemblies.

And just in case, while in Indy, I picked up a 4 gang switch assembly.

 

[Yianni]

Duane,
Good thing these things are (fairly) small annoyances. Still stinks though.
I have a question. Does your level up auto level with the touch of a button? I thought I read Quadra's Bigfoot claimed they were the only ones with auto level.

 

[porthole]

TV's

The trailer came with a 32" Jensen in the LR and a 17" in the bedroom for the security camera.

I switched out the Jensen right away for my Sony 32" because it has a headphone jack. The Jensen went in the bedroom but was kind of a pain always moving a 32" TV every time we moved.

So, I got a 27" flat screen and squeezed it into the cabinet over the washer/dryer.

I have to work it out of the cabinet on an angle because it doesn't fit through the doors. And the one door would be in the way. On our boat I did a similar mod for access to the TV cabinet and it worked out well.

 

[porthole]

I routed small grooves in the sliding panel for the screen door to make it easier to open

 

[jbeletti]

That's a great idea Duane! Bring your router to the rallies

Not sure if anyone noticed this yet, but a customer pointed it out to me on one of the 3 Big Countrys at the Hershey show. This Lippert screen door had a larger slider knob on the plexiglass slider latch window and that larger knob had another function. It slides down just a bit. That downward motion actuates the door latch, opening it. All without having to open the slider. Not sure if this will become standard equipment going forward - but I like it



On edit: I checked with Purchasing and the new slider knob will be on all doors going forward. Not sure when the exact cut-over was/will be.