Another Flat Tire :( - Pressure Pro Works!

J-W&E

Well-known member
Hi Jim,
We went to Sears Friends and Family tonight too. We bought a small air compressor 125 psi to take with us in the trailer for those 110# tires. Great deal. None
 

jbeletti

Well-known member
Thanks Clark. Hey, I also took advantage of the discounts and bought a torque wrench. No idea if I got a good one or not. Maybe you and others can tell me. I have 90 days to keep or return it. Here's what I got:

Craftsman (Sears item # 44595)
Microtork Torque Wrench
20 - 150 ft-lbs
1/2" drive

It looks to be about 20" long. Just read through the directions. Seems pretty straight forward. When I get all the new tires mounted, I'll crack all the lugs loose with a 4-way, then apply the correct torque with the wrench. Looked for a 7/16" x 1/2" drive deep well socket but they were out of stock. With the length of my lugs, I am assuming I'll want/need a somewhat deeper than standard socket.

Jim
 

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jbeletti

Well-known member
Hi Jim and Wilma,

Good for you. Here's a funny one - on my way out of Sears tonight, I snapped a picture of the tag for a 125 PSI/3 Gal compressor on sale for $99.99. Maybe it's the one you got.

I like my little Husky but I'd like a unit that has a higher SCFM at 90 PSI. My Husky is 2.0 SCFM and the Craftsman I snapped was 2.4 SCFM at 90 PSI. Not sure that's much of a gain for me to consider. My other criteria is that it must fit inside my under-the-rail tool box in the pickup bed.

Great to hear from you guys. Happy trails!

Jim
 

ct0218

Well-known member
The Craftsman looks a lot like my S-K, and with their hand tool warranty you can't go wrong.
 

ct0218

Well-known member
Jim, it would be interesting to know what the weight difference is between your old tires and the new Goodyears. Just curious.
 
Jp Morgan37: Real good information: Never heard of pulling verse towing tread alignment! I work in transportation and our maintenance branch changed the tires on our tractor/trailers and as driver we thought they were wrong so we reqested a DOT specialist come in and explain the difference. He never mentioned anything about tread alignment for towing its all he talked was weight rating for the different rating

Nscaler 2
Tried your NTB link and out West it said check with Big-O Tires.

Jim, What is the Ft LB setting for the torque wrench? Also remember in manufacturing environment that torque wrench need to be re-calibrated. Hope it came in a protective case to help protect it from jarring it. Good Idea! Maybe suggest high torque socket they don’t stripe as easy.

Air Compressor: Good luck trying to get 110 PSI! I have a 5 gal single stage compressor at home and I have a hard time getting over 95 PSI, even the facility compressor were I work wouldn’t get over 100 PSI.

Good thread Everyone!
 

jbeletti

Well-known member
Jim, What is the Ft LB setting for the torque wrench? Also remember in manufacturing environment that torque wrench need to be re-calibrated. Hope it came in a protective case to help protect it from jarring it. Good Idea! Maybe suggest high torque socket they don’t stripe as easy.

sonnybeech,

The wrench can be set from 20 to 150 foot pounds. I need to look in all my literature to see what I can find on what torque I should use. Front what I have gleaned from this forum, 110 to 120 is what others are using or planning to use. How about you - what are you using? Craftsman makes a case for the wrench. I plan to get it but for now, I am keeping it in the package it came in.

Thanks,

Jim
 
Jim, I was just curious about the torque in all the literature I have seen I don’t remember a torque value mentioned, in my experience with torque wrench we bought three new snap on in one area I worked, and in the first 90-day we sent it to PMEL for recertification we had to throw one away because it couldn’t be calibrated. So if an individual uses a torque wrench with out being calibrated he isn’t sure what he is torquing to anyway!
And I was curious in another thread torque wrench came up and it was being used with an extension as a cheater bar to remove and install tires in this case, I’m pretty sure the torque wrench would be inaccurate and shouldn’t be used to torque.
Normally I used and impact wrench too snug the lug nuts then just hand tight with the lug wrench in crisscross pattern so the rim is centered on the axel.
I too have sams road side service I have another choice!
 
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jpmorgan37

Well-known member
Sonnybeech;
We used to use Snap-on torque wrenches in our technician training facility and sent them to be recalibrated every six months. We never had one that couldn't be recalibrated, but most were off to some degree. I don't have the literature anymore, but you can use an straight extension with no loss of accuracy and there were "L" extensions that could be used and there was a formula to calculate the correct torque, depending on which length "L" was being used. Here is a website that has a lot of good information about torque and torque wrenches. http://www.srtorque.com/products.html
John
 
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K

Ken Washington

Guest
Boys, You all have too much time on your hands!!! I just make sure they are good and tight. I am not trying to make light of your concern, but a small percent of people worry about it. Thats my torqued two cents worth! I do enjoy reading your post though!
Ken
 
Jpmorgan
I wasn’t implying the use of breaker bars changes the torque value, and I can’t remember the formula either but the torque does change on a 90 deg. Angle. I was implying that using a torque wrench with a braked would be my concern!

Ken Washington
Quote: Boys, You all have too much time on your hands!!!

That makes me ‘lol” laugh-out-load new computer talk!
I’m spending the summer up in Star Valley Ranch Resort, Wyo. were about 50 miles south of Jackson Hole! I have been retired for three years know and the only thing I have to do is golf, 4 wheel, fish, we have a RV lot with a Park Model! With very little maintenance! And you think I don’t have anything to do? I have too much to do!
 

jpmorgan37

Well-known member
Well, I found the formula and here it is. "The total effective length of the assembly is the sum of the length of the adapter plus the lever length of the Torque wrench (L plus A). This is shown in a formula as follows: Ta = Tw x (L+A)/L where Ta = Torque exerted at the end of the adapter; Tw = Wrench dial reading; L = Lever length of wrench and A = Length of Adapter." Now, aren't you excited to get this information?:rolleyes: BTW, I use an 18 inch breaker bar and lean on it. I haven't had one come loose yet.:D
 
K

Ken Washington

Guest
Hi Sonnybeech, Just looked at your public profile and saw that we are the same age with me being a little over a month younger than you. I too am retired (two years) and enjoy golf also. I don't know how I got everything done while I was working but enjoying retirement very much! Hope everyone knows that I was just kidding in my last post! Try not to over do yourself!
Ken
 

dieselengineer

Charter Member
The correct procedure is to torque the wheel lugs to manufacturer specification. If you follow the procedure this also means that the wheel studs and lug nuts are correctly oiled before the torque procedure. The torque wrench is a calibrated tool and need to be recalibrated and used as manufacturer intended. This does not mean using a 2 foot piece of pipe as an extension bar. The wheel lugs are subject to large loads not only from the shear weight of the coach but also from side loads each time the coach is being turned. Just think of it this way, What will hold the wheel on if all the wheel lugs are sheared due to exceeding the tensile yield rating of the studs (torque preloading + static load + dymanic load)? The answer is NOTHING.
 

bowtorc

Well-known member
pressure pro

just ordered duran pressure pro for the truck and 5th wheel from rv addon.


Jeff Hackman
RV Add Ons
p: 888.778.0814
f: 888.778.0814
e: jeff@rvaddons.com
w: www.rvaddons.com


If you are looking for a fair price call him (don't order over the net) you might be surprised . ask about his best price.
 

fireflipper

EX-Travel Bug
fireflipper

Hi Jim
You should be happy with that tire. It is the same brand and size that was on my Grand Canyon from the factory. I have about 18,000 miles on them and they show very little wear. The only thing that concerned me when I first saw them was, why is the edges smooth with no tread? The Goodyear rep told me that this tire is made for heavy trailers and the slick area allows the tire to make tight turns and pivot, other than wearing on the tread.
 

jbeletti

Well-known member
Thanks Glenn. I found a place that can do my demount, remount and balance so the tires will be on later this week. I read on rv.net tonight that these tires tend to hydroplane on wet roads and that a reduced speed is recommended in those conditions. I keep it at 60 max normally but what is your experience in wet conditions?

BTW, I got really lucky (sale + discounts) on these and my final cost (out-the-door) ended up being $183 per tire. Glad I decided to go with 5 at that cost.

Thanks,

Jim
 

jbeletti

Well-known member
New tires finally on the trailer - the saga concludes

Oh my gosh - what an ordeal today with getting the new tires on the trailer. I thought I had found the perfect shop to do it. They were close, reasonably priced and said they had the equipment for the job as I explained it to them. Not!

I will say that the staff at Blain's Woodstock Farm and Fleet in Woodstock, IL were friendly and as accommodating as they could be, given the circumstances.

Short story is the 4 new tires are on and they look good.

Long story is that when I got there, their floor jack turned out to be a 2-ton unit and could not get a single trailer wheel off the ground. So the deal was off. But then I asked if I could move my trailer farther out into the lot, use my own jack (5 ton bottle jack), remove a wheel at a time and bring it in with a new tire to be demounted and remounted. They said sure - that I could do it but they could not use customer equipment. So that's what I did. One corner at a time, cracked the lug nuts loose with a 4-way, jacked the trailer up, placed some blocking under the axle for safety, removed a wheel, rolled it across a huge lot into the tire shop and had them demount the old tire and mount the new one. Because they didn't have the filler they needed, I lended them one of my tire filling chucks with a quick coupling and my nice Pressure Pro gauge (thanks Stacey and Gail). Then the fun of rolling the new tire on wheel back to the trailer, remounting it and moving to the next one.

In all, with the messing around before I began to do it on my own, I spent 2 hours there. I had not yet purchased a socket for my new torque wrench so the tire tech brought his out to the trailer and torqued the lugs for me. For now, I'm using 100 foot pounds.

For the hassle, the tire guys agreed to make my old tires disappear (through their own program). Saving me from having to return them to Sears Auto for disposal.

I did have one mis-hap. What would an adventure be without one (a perfect adventure! - that's what!)? One of the lug nuts was hard to take off right from the start. Instead of being easier to turn from the start, it seemed harder. I actually fought to get it off. When it came off, I saw that I had chewed up the threads at the end of the stud. Oops! :eek: Maybe I can chase the threads with a die?? I have a buddies tap and die set. Maybe I have the right size. More fun for another day.

While walking to the checkout line to pay for my tire mounting, I stopped and grabbed a 7/8" x 1/2" drive socket for an impact wrench that I hope to be able to use with my torque wrench later.

Oh, and I had to back into my site at my home CG in the dark. Not fun. One of my neighbors stepped outside and helped me a bit. I will say that for the first time, I used the backup lights on the trailer. The ones that are really on the side of the trailer near the rear. I guess that's an okay place for them but I may add a set under the bumper too. With the backup camera on the trailer, backup lights behind the trailer would work real well. I sort of lightly rode the brake at times to illuminate the rear area of the trailer and see it on the screen. It worked.

I guess the take away from my saga, for me at least is to maybe call the place twice, in order to speak to different techs to verify the capabilities of the shop and to plan for twice as much daylight as needed - for the unexpected.

Jim
 

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Cheryl

Well-known member
Jim,
Little hint for backing up in the dark. Have the person "guiding" you stand behind the driver's side back corner of the trailer with a flashlight held as high up as they can - BUT they need to point the light straight down in front of their feet. If you have 2 people, have the other person do the same on the passenger side. Nelson and I almost always seem to get to our destination after dark. We are quite "expert" at it now.
 

jbeletti

Well-known member
Thanks for the tip Cheryl. I hope to not have to do this again but I know that it's not realistic to think I'll never have to back into a spot in the dark. Going on three years now, my trip planning has done me well - except for last night :(

Still think I'll add some backup lights.

Jim
 
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