Another Flat Tire :( - Pressure Pro Works!
- Thread starter jbeletti
- Start date
jpmorgan37
Well-known member
Jim;
A little dab of Nev'r Seez on the threads will prevent that from ever happening again. Also helps with allowing for accurate torque measurement.
John
A little dab of Nev'r Seez on the threads will prevent that from ever happening again. Also helps with allowing for accurate torque measurement.
John
nhunter
Well-known member
I heard once that threads were supposed to torqued "dry" with no lube or else it changes the torque. Here is a handy web site I found.http://mdmetric.com/tech/data1torque.html
fireflipper
EX-Travel Bug
fireflipper
HI Jim
I can't say that I noticed alot of difference in the rain, but I usually travel about 65 to 70 on dry and slow down to 60 when it is wet. That is just a habit from driving trucks.
As for the lug nut, I would not try to re-thread it. Order a new lug from the wheel company, Tredit Tire, bang the old one out, of course you have to remove the drum to do this, than using a lug nut that is bigger than the threads, as a washer persay, put the original lug nut on and slowly pull the new lug bolt till it seats on the inside of the drum. I would also order a new lug nut. That is why you are suppose to check the torgue every so often when you first get the RV, to make sure that the lugs are seated all the way. So don't forget to check the new one a couple of times on your first trip out. As a rule I check the torgue before every trip.
HI Jim
I can't say that I noticed alot of difference in the rain, but I usually travel about 65 to 70 on dry and slow down to 60 when it is wet. That is just a habit from driving trucks.
As for the lug nut, I would not try to re-thread it. Order a new lug from the wheel company, Tredit Tire, bang the old one out, of course you have to remove the drum to do this, than using a lug nut that is bigger than the threads, as a washer persay, put the original lug nut on and slowly pull the new lug bolt till it seats on the inside of the drum. I would also order a new lug nut. That is why you are suppose to check the torgue every so often when you first get the RV, to make sure that the lugs are seated all the way. So don't forget to check the new one a couple of times on your first trip out. As a rule I check the torgue before every trip.
Repairing Wheel Studs
Jim, we don't want to say that Joe 4300 warned people not to use a breaker bar or a impak wrench to tighten wheel studs, but it is unsafe and can cause alot of damage to use any thing but a torque wrench in a proper tightening pattern of wheel nuts. See my post on 7-16-06 A Theromo Gun, about my Son's trailer. Do not, ever try to rechase wheel studs! They are not hard to replace, you need to remove the drums, pound the bad studs out or take the drums to a automotive machine shop and have them replace the studs for you (I would do all of them if it where mine)(do too metal fatque, semi trucks & buses have there wheel studs replaced often as part of their safety/maintenace sch). I don't know how junky, Lippert's wheel studs and bolts are, all of Dexter Axle's parts on my son's are junk from China & Romaneia. With new studs you will need to replace all of the Chrome nuts with good quality nuts.
I just replaced all 5 of my crappy Mission tires with 5 Michelin XPS Ripped 285/16's, and ran into clearence problems on the door side of our 3055.
Nothing is easy, a simple tire change turns into a 8 hour job do to Heartland engineering! I will sent pictures and discuss this later, on another post.
After our 200+ mile trip to Traverse City, I rechecked wheel torgue before leaving for home and was able to tighten 2-4 nuts on each wheel more, to proper spec.
Jim while your wheels are up check your bearing slack adjustment!
Also check brake adjustment, all 4 my Wheels would only spin a quarter turn (hate to think how much gas I wasted so far, plus extra heat build-up)! I readjusted all brakes so that they would spin about 2 turns freely (you will always hear a rubbing sound with drum brakes).
Don't crawl under the trailer, unless you are on stable ground and use blocking and the proper safety stands!
Jim, we don't want to say that Joe 4300 warned people not to use a breaker bar or a impak wrench to tighten wheel studs, but it is unsafe and can cause alot of damage to use any thing but a torque wrench in a proper tightening pattern of wheel nuts. See my post on 7-16-06 A Theromo Gun, about my Son's trailer. Do not, ever try to rechase wheel studs! They are not hard to replace, you need to remove the drums, pound the bad studs out or take the drums to a automotive machine shop and have them replace the studs for you (I would do all of them if it where mine)(do too metal fatque, semi trucks & buses have there wheel studs replaced often as part of their safety/maintenace sch). I don't know how junky, Lippert's wheel studs and bolts are, all of Dexter Axle's parts on my son's are junk from China & Romaneia. With new studs you will need to replace all of the Chrome nuts with good quality nuts.
I just replaced all 5 of my crappy Mission tires with 5 Michelin XPS Ripped 285/16's, and ran into clearence problems on the door side of our 3055.
Nothing is easy, a simple tire change turns into a 8 hour job do to Heartland engineering! I will sent pictures and discuss this later, on another post.
After our 200+ mile trip to Traverse City, I rechecked wheel torgue before leaving for home and was able to tighten 2-4 nuts on each wheel more, to proper spec.
Jim while your wheels are up check your bearing slack adjustment!
Also check brake adjustment, all 4 my Wheels would only spin a quarter turn (hate to think how much gas I wasted so far, plus extra heat build-up)! I readjusted all brakes so that they would spin about 2 turns freely (you will always hear a rubbing sound with drum brakes).
Don't crawl under the trailer, unless you are on stable ground and use blocking and the proper safety stands!
Last edited:
BluegrassMan
Well-known member
Hi Guy's
On the wheel studs, where I work (Volvo/Mack) in the engine assembly dept. We NEVER torque a bolt, nut, or stud without at least oil or lubraplate or neverseize. The ARP fastener company even sells a lube specially designed for tightening bolts etc. You do get a truer torque reading with lube of some sort. I just use motor oil (clean) on my studs.
On the wheel studs, where I work (Volvo/Mack) in the engine assembly dept. We NEVER torque a bolt, nut, or stud without at least oil or lubraplate or neverseize. The ARP fastener company even sells a lube specially designed for tightening bolts etc. You do get a truer torque reading with lube of some sort. I just use motor oil (clean) on my studs.
dieselengineer
Charter Member
I agree, always oil the threads before torquing the lugs. Also, the replacement wheel stud needs to be pressed in with a hydraulic press. Do not use the wheel lug nut! To set the stud, you need the force of the press. This required force will over stress the new stud if you use the nut as a press. You should always press the old studs out and press the new studs in with a hydraulic shop press. Knocking them out with a hammer is not really the correct way.
Jim
Sorry to hear about your problems with the tire replacement. I know your pain, however on the good side you didn't have to remove the old tire and install the new tire by hand. I did that one weekend, and when I was on the last wheel, the tire iron was getting real heavy!
Jim
Sorry to hear about your problems with the tire replacement. I know your pain, however on the good side you didn't have to remove the old tire and install the new tire by hand. I did that one weekend, and when I was on the last wheel, the tire iron was getting real heavy!
DE,
Thanks for the tips on the stud replacement. I'll check with whatever shop replaces mine, in advance to see what their process it.
As for replacing a tire on a rim by hand, ouch. I think replacing a bike tire by hand is as tough a job as I want to do.
Changing 4 tires in about a span of little over an hour wore me out.
Jim
Thanks for the tips on the stud replacement. I'll check with whatever shop replaces mine, in advance to see what their process it.
As for replacing a tire on a rim by hand, ouch. I think replacing a bike tire by hand is as tough a job as I want to do.
Changing 4 tires in about a span of little over an hour wore me out.
Jim
