Any tips to R/R the cloroplast?

[davelinde]

I've got to start taking the cloroplast undebelly off to figure out why my fresh water tank dropped out. It looks like I can just pull the self tappers and maybe make a few small slits to free up brake wires and plumbing penetrations and drop it?
I'm looking for any tips that will help me remove it then get it back in place when I'm done under there.

 

[TravelTiger]

Get yourself a impact driver to remove the screws, and an auto-creeper to lay on and roll around on. Removing the belly isn't too bad... Getting it reinstalled takes a lot more effort, because you are working against gravity.

E

 

[Ray LeTourneau]

Dave, if you're just needing to get to the fresh tank, you only need to remove the rear section up to the rear shackles. Unless you feel the need to go further. If I had a concrete surface to work on, I'd like to remove the whole thing and get a good feel for what's up under there. Re-route hoses, cables, check tank valves etc. Maybe even mount tank heaters. I'm not in any hurry though.

 

[brianharrison]

I cut the chloroplast just behind the axles to drop the whole rear section when I worked on my fresh water tank. To reinstall I added a 1x6 cut to fit crossways in the frame rails. To this I screwed the two sections together using the 1x6 as a backer. There is an under belly tape I bought to seal the seam. Here is a link. Also goes by the name Scrim Shield.

As mentioned I used a air rachet and creeper to save my poor old back and wrists.

Hope this helps.

Take care,
Brian

 

[hoefler]

When I remounted our water tank, I used 1 1/2" high density foam to replace the coroplastic under the tank. Been there 2 years and about 10,000 miles. I am thinking about replacing all the coroplastic with it. Better R-value and easier to work with. Here is the link to my tank remount:

//heartlandowners.org/showthread.php/25165-I-have-one-for-you-all!?p=186632#post186632

 

[CactusTwo]

I agree that by cutting across and dropping a section as needed would be your best bet, although as also mentioned, removing all (in sections) you can see the total extent of the underworkings. You will need some of that tape and propably some new tex screws ( bring a screw to your local bolt supply house) to hold back up the edges of the corroplast at the cut marks. Once opened up you may want to take pictures for future reference, insulating the underbelly would be a large challenge but necessary for cold weather RVers ( as I am), a mod in my future
Len

 

[Urban350]

Yes pulling down the caroplastic and insulating is on my list to do, it is just going to be a pain on a gravel parking pad.

 

[aatauses]

I had to remove a section in the front of mine. Removing was easy,---when you go to put it back up, have 2 or 3 people and "walk it on" that way you will not get any gaps.
al

 

[hoefler]

Yes pulling down the caroplastic and insulating is on my list to do, it is just going to be a pain on a gravel parking pad.

My rig is parked on gravel as well. I purchased 4 sheets of 7/16", OSB, $6.00 apiece, laid them down under the rig and was able to get 16' x 8' of reasonably flat smooth surface to roll around on my creeper.

 

[JohnDar]

When I do work under the rig, I've got a couple of woven plastic beach mats that I unroll. No creeper, but it beats laying in the dirt. Takes the edge off the gravel, too. Just gotta do the low crawl.

 

[mrcomer]

When I re-installed my cloroplast I used (4) or more empty 5 gallon buckets to hold it up close to the frame and then all I had to do is push it up a inch or more to install the screws.

 

[davelinde]

The cheap OSB sounds smart - I'll be on gravel or grass too.
I like the bucket idea too - plenty of spackle buckets lying around for that.

 

[Sandpirate69]

I'm getting ready to drop my underbelly, like some of you have. Did you use any type of sealer for the edge that meets the frame? Figure on sealing the front edge to keep water out when traveling in rain storms. Also, what type of screws are you using to replace the originals or can you re-use the originals?

Ivan

 

[brianharrison]

No sealer and I reused the original screws. They are sheet metal screws with self tapping ends. That being said, I would try to reuse the existing corresponding hole in the frame as well; this will align your underbelly back to original installed position.

Brian