ATF: Cyclone - Motorcycle Chock Install

[Lndeatr]

I pick up my 300c Ti on Friday. I am installing motorcycle chocks and from what I have researched, I will need to lower and/or remove one or both of the fuel tanks before drilling through the floor for the install bolts and fender washers. I have yet to crawl under the beast and was wondering if there is anything special I should know about such as wiring, vents etc that may be hidden.

Thanks,

Martin

 

[AJJONES]

Everything is pretty visible from underneath the unit, and there isn’t a lot of wiring under the garage floor. As long as you don’t use to long of a screw you do not have to drop the tanks. The plywood is 1" thick and there is also a lot of metal framing bellow the plywood as well and the tanks sit below all of that.

thanks,

AJ

 

[porthole]

Limit your drill bit in the chuck to about 2" max.

 

[Lndeatr]

Thanks AJ and Porthole. Was gonna jump on it this afternoon but it is 112 outside. Think I might put it off a day or 2. I do have an additional question though. Can I load the Harley without hooking up to the truck? Gonna raise the rear stabilizers and don't know what kind of leverage is working that might bounce the front.

 

[porthole]

I have frequently loaded both the cart and bike unhooked.

Just an FYI, I did a pin weight check one day with the garage empty, just the bike and with the cart and bike.

Don't have the numbers handy, but even with the garage loaded I still had about 2400 pounds of pin weight.

If it makes you feel better, drop the rear stabilizers. If nothing else it will limit the bounce you would otherwise get.

 

[Lndeatr]

Thanks. I may brave the heat and see what I can get done.

 

[2TrakR]

When I put the chocks in our 3950, I did have to drop the tank down to get at some of the bolts. Just dropped one side, and it was adequate. Picked the side opposite the filler in case there was not enough "stretch room" for the filler next/hoses.
Recommend having the tank empty, it's plenty heavy enough.

 

[Lndeatr]

Well the Pingel removable chock is in and works great. Decided to put one in the center for now as we don't plan on taking 2 bikes anytime soon. I can always add left and right mounting plates later. I did have to drop one side of the tank and then was able to reach in and hold the wrench on the nut while my buddy tightened them down. I did have to take the filler hose off of the tank (much easier than taking it loose from the sheet metal) to give it some room to move but other than the 107 degree heat it was a breeze. It had about 5 gallons of fuel but was not a problem as I used my motorcycle jack to support it and lower/raise it. I would reccomend lowering the tank first as there are fuel lines on top of the tank. I was lucky and did not hit them.

Going on a shakedown trip tomorrow until next Monday for our annual 4th of July/Anniversary trip. only about 100 miles away but will be a good test of how it rides and pulls. Will be everything from flat freeway to windy 2 lanes mountain roads.

Have a great 4th!!

 

[Subdrv]

Just wondering if anyone has used this type of system to mount thier wheel chock.

http://www.baxleycompanies.com/Boltdown.html

 

[DocFather]

I just got a '14 4100 and I will be installing my Condor chock for my Ultra CVO this weekend. With the 1" plywood subfloor, I am planning on four 1.5" lag screws. With the thickness of the chock bracket and the diamond-plate floor I should have 1" or less into the plywood. The 4 screws should be enough to hold it in place. Remember, if you strap the bike down properly, all the chock does is keep the wheel from sliding. I had an Amerideck lift on my pickup before I bought the RV and I only had 2 bolts holding the chock in place. It was fine for the 2 years I used that set-up. I will post on here after the first trip

 

[porthole]

Docfather, since I switched to the Condor I no longer bolt a chock down. Just set it on the floor against either my tracks or a piece of wood to keep it from sliding forward.

 

[DocFather]

Porthole. The Lag screws were perfect. Now if I can just figure out a safer way to back a 950# Ultra CVO down the steep ramp. I am working on a solution for that. Thanks for the reply.

 

[Lou_and_Bette]

DocFather, I engage first gear, without the motor running, and then, using both the front brake and the clutch, back my Ultra down the ramp. I tried with only the front brake when I first started using the RV but quickly found that with the heavy bike and my big self the bike simply slid down the ramp even with the no skid surface. Hence, both the brake and the transmission. took a little time to fully coordinated squeezing with the right hand (brake) and releasing with the left hand (clutch) but all is good now. Well controlled backing

 

[porthole]

Ever since my first trip down the ramp I where I slid more then I wanted I changed my "exit"

Engine off, in first gear, right hand wrapped firmly around the grip and I "clutch" down the ramp.

I do not touch the front front brake. Just about any brake application on the front will lock the front wheel.

Going backwards down the ramp all the weight is being transferred to the rear wheel and is unloading the front.

Have had no issues now going on the 5th season - other then the bike has not been off the jack in the house garage since January.

 

[remoandiris]

I installed my chock today. I bought it at Harbor Freight. Had my favorite welding business fabricate some quick disconnect mounts for it. I didn't put it where I really wanted it because of the fuel tank. I didn't feel like dropping the tank so I backed the chock about 8". The bike's rear tire is just forward of the dovetail. At least I now have room to install the bicycle rack so the bikes are perpendicular to my Gold Wing and I have room on each side of the Wing to put a kayak.

 

[porthole]

There is a reason why the HF chock is one third the price of the Bike Pro they blatantly copied. Make sure you tie it down properly.

 

[remoandiris]

All wheel chocks do is prevent the front wheel from moving so the bike stays in one place. They don't support the bike. I have transported bikes on flatbeds with no chocks and had zero problem when using 6 straps. Using 4 straps is a bit more problematic if the front wheel moves/slides.

 

[porthole]

All wheel chocks do is prevent the front wheel from moving so the bike stays in one place. They don't support the bike. I have transported bikes on flatbeds with no chocks and had zero problem when using 6 straps. Using 4 straps is a bit more problematic if the front wheel moves/slides.

Depends on the chock type. If a Pingle chock, which was blatantly copied and sold as their own, then yes, that chock is for positioning.

The two chocks I use, BikePro (copied by hf) and Condor both allow the rider to ride onto the chock and then step off. Those two do support the bike.
Either of those two will allow storage (not travel) with the bike sitting in the chock. The hf copy of the BikePro allows the same thing and will allow the bike to fall over since it is made of much smaller material. No BS, saw my buddies 32K CVO RG do exactly that.

 

[remoandiris]

Engine off, in first gear, right hand wrapped firmly around the grip and I "clutch" down the ramp.

Thanks for sharing this method. I didn't care for it the first time I used it, but after doing it 2 more times, it is now my method of choice. Much more control than using the front brake, especially when it locks and slides down a damp ramp. I don't think there is enough momentum to damage the trans if the clutch is released halfway down the ramp. At least I hope not. Happened once so far.

 

[remoandiris]

Depends on the chock type.

The one I have is similar to the Condor. The front tire on my bike is too big to use the rear "clamp". It didn't work freestanding in the garage and I didn't care to remount it in the toy hauler.