Axle flip for my 2014 North Trail 28BRS, can i do it myself?

[mgburle]

Hi. This is my first posting. I bought a new 2014 North Trail 28BRS last Saturday and have a major problem. I can't get it up my driveway due to the slope and hill. I have to drive at a 45 degree angle backwards across my front yard to park it.

Returning it is not an option.

How hard is it to flip the axles for a guy with some mechanical know how? The dealer wants $600 for this.

Will this void the factory warranty? The salesman says no, but I'm just a little weary.

Has anyone done this? Thanks in advance for the help!

 

[danemayer]

Hi mgburle,

The best way to find out about the warranty is to call Heartland Customer Service at 877-262-8032 / 574-262-8030. Have your VIN # ready. They should be able to give you better info than the dealer. One thing to be aware of is that the suspension manufacturer (Lippert or Dexter) warrants the springs and axles. When speaking to Heartland, that's something you'll want to ask about.

I think we've had some prior discussion suggesting that it's not too difficult to do what you're proposing. Hopefully another owner who's done it will chime in with some help on what it takes.

 

[sdrubrecht]

Flipping axles is not hard, I've done it on 3 of my prior TT's. I bought new spring perches at the local RV supply and welded them on. I have heard that Dexter makes a no-weld bolt on kit, but I have no experience with it. Just be very safe in how you block up your trailer before removing the axles. If you took the axles to a local welding shop, they should be able to weld on new perches for a couple hundred or less. You should be able to do it in less than a day, just lots of crawling around on the ground. Good luck with your project, don't be afraid to go for it. BTW, most of my trailers required new steps with an extra tread as the trailer went up 4 to 6 inches.

 

[wobly]

We have a 2011 North Trail 28BRS and I plan on doing the same thing for the same reason. To back into the driveway, I have to stop, switch from the Blue Ox hitch to a standard ball and then back it in. The standard ball hitch with a 2" drop allows the back of the trailer to get "just" high enough to clear the driveway by letting the nose drop down.

I hope I'm not breaking the rules, but here is the kit I found at etrailer.com http://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Dexter/K71-385-00.html I actually was trying to figure out if I have a 3" axle or a smaller one when I found this thread.

 

[JohnD]

Hi. This is my first posting. I bought a new 2014 North Trail 28BRS last Saturday and have a major problem. I can't get it up my driveway due to the slope and hill. I have to drive at a 45 degree angle backwards across my front yard to park it.

I used to have the same issue with our old trailer . . .

It was an old 1978 Coachman, which sat a lot lower to the ground than today's travel trailers.

The back bumper of the trailer would drag (actually destroyed the black water tank that way).

That rear bumper would even drag on speed bumps!

Anyway . . .

I had to do the same thing that someone else above mentioned . . .

If backing it in after a camp out, I'd have to unhook the trailer, put a ball with a lower ball mount to raise the rear of the trailer to clear the ground, then stop at the curb and change out the ball to one that was higher as the ball mount would hit the curb, then switch back to the higher ball mount to back it in the rest of the way.

Of course, I had to do the same thing pulling it out of the yard as well!

What a PITA that was!

I was told by someone about flipping the axles, but was warned that it throws off the balance of the trailer, so I never had it done.

Now, my new Trail Runner sits much higher, but the problem I've had with it is that one of the front scissor jacks drag when I pull it over the curb.

What I've discovered with my issue is that if I have my torsion bars hooked up, the scissor jack clears and doesn't drag.

So I do that!

Those scissor jacks are worthless anywayz, so I'm thinking of just removing all of them as I still use my old screw-up jack stands to steady the trailer.

The alternative is to clear all of the rocks out of the parking spot and have it cemented (got an estimate of $7000).

 

[priorguy]

Was that price for cement or interlock stone johnD? I have a new house now the large side yard with street access. My plan was just a pea gravel or crushed limestone pad for the trailer. That way less work if I decide to sell the Barbie dream house after five years for the new owner.


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[wobly]

I should have updated my post. I did the axle-under-spring conversion and I wish I had done it 2 years ago. I also changed out the bushings and bolts to the brass bushings and wet bolts. (Wet bolts have zerk fittings so you can lube them) It took me about 8 hours doing the work by myself, with all of the changes I did. I gained about 5 inches, but it makes a huge difference in being able to get in and out of the driveway and camping spots. I haven't had any issues with...any of it. This is the way the trailer should come from the factory. I also went on Am*zon and bought a good, solid step instead of getting the 3-step folding ones. It cost about $90, but it's well worth it.

 

[priorguy]

So was it the 3". The price looks really good. I have a friend with a shop and I might be able to use his lift after the spring tire rush. Thanks.


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[JohnD]

Was that price for cement or interlock stone JohnD?

That was a rough estimate for a 65 to 70 foot by 14 foot wide cement pad from the sidewalk to the back corner of our garage.

And that was if I moved all of the stones from that area myself.

We have some other things around the house that need that money more, so I guess I'll put up with the stones for now.

The only real issue I have with the stones is that, with the 4-wheel drive not working in my truck right now, when I get back far enough while backing the trailer in, my rear wheels spin.

Luckily that is just about the right spot where I like to park the trailer and still have room to have the truck parked in front of it.



I have since moved the mail boxes on to one post into the corner of the neighbors front yard (he was OK with it as long as I paid for it) as mine was in the way of me backing in.

And the fence used to come out from the front corner of our garage and then back toward where the current fence post is.

Our old trailer fit behind the fence and was completely enclosed from the street, but this new trailer is longer than our old one and could also be backed further in, and since the whole fence from the front all the way back to the back corner of the yard was blown down by a wind storm shortly before we purchased the new trailer, we only put the new fence up to the point of where it met the post shown in this photo until we decide what we really want to do with that area.

 

[priorguy]

I see your point. I haven't got the final grading on my house yet. But the builder/developer has built everything around me on spec. I think it will be fairly level to the curb from what I can tell if the driveway. The slope is better then the old townhome. Even fully extending the tongue jack with a couple of 2x8"s under it wouldn't level the old fun finder. I never attempted the NT in that driveway as the neighbour had trouble with a 28' puma scraping bumper etc. and it had much better clearance. I only plan to have it there part time. Don't need people knowing when I'm home or not.


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