Battery box 21rbss
- Thread starter Viking23
- Start date
D-K_21RBSS
Member
Viking23 I measured the battery space on my 2020 21RBSS and I don't believe a 4D will fit. Plenty of length and height, but the rails are only 8 inches apart (a NOCO HM426 Dual 6V GC2 Commercial-Grade Battery Box is 18.25 x 14.25 x 14 inches). Even a 12 volt 4D box is 24.7 x 9.6 x 14 inches (NOCO HM408 Group 4D Commercial-Grade Battery Box)
My new 21rbss, came with a Interstate marine battery. Not enough Ah rating. Removed it, and battery box. Cut a 2 x 10 board down, to fill battery tray, and bolted in from below. Moved propane rack and tanks a little forward. Installed 2 battery boxes side by side, running front to back. Have to tip back of battery down to drop into box, since it’s tight. Installed 2 deep cycle AGM batteries. Batteries paralleled with equal length cables, going to a waterproof breaker (manual reset type), then goes to master switch on tongue. Power exits master switch, and goes to factory distribution block. The battery box on awning side, will have a dual high capacity, waterproof USB ports, with digital 12 vdc meter, that can be shut off with a switch. Watertight, lighter plug, and external 12 volt accessory 60 amp terminals, for optional use. A 3rd battery could be set on ground, and paralleled to these terminals, for extra storage, or charge up a auxiliary battery. With the 12 volt refrigerator, not having propane operation, higher battery capacity is needed. Will possibly add some solar later. None of this would have fit on this area, without repeated measurements, planning, and modifications. Contemplated 6 volt in series, but it didn’t meet planning, and end use requirements.
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Thanks for reply. Wish you were right. It’s 12 volt only compressor. Advertising sticker on fridge, says 12 volt fridge. All lp lines on exterior underside, from lp rack on tongue. Lines branch off for furnace, stove, water heater, and quick connect grill port. No lp line to fridge. Been all over underside, closing large installation holes left at factory, and again, no lp to fridge. No heat generated from thermal operation, and no venting through camper wall or roof needed. Being 12 vdc only, is why. Spec sticker on fridge, confirms my disappointment. You can’t turn power on to camper, without fridge running. 115 vac to camper it runs, 12 vdc, it runs. Power off switch inside fridge ,says to hold down 10 seconds to turn off. Do this, it clicks off, then restarts instantly. Will have to put in a easily accessible illuminated power switch, to interrupt line into fridge. Didn’t buy camper to be part of R&D process, but needs to be done. Working on interior and exterior, makes having power on for lights, a necessity. For now, I have to put up with a fridge that won’t shut off, but will be corrected shortly. Suppose they will want to void my fridge warranty for putting in a external power switch.
danemayer
Well-known member
As long as you don't modify the refrigerator itself, you'll be fine. Putting in a switch before the refrigerator is no different that putting in a battery cutoff switch, or removing the batteries while in storage.
And yes, some new builds come with 12V DC refrigerators that don't use propane.
Daley07
Active Member
If you are looking for an efficient and high-quality battery pack for size group 24 and up, NOCO's RV battery box can't be missed. This is exactly the battery box you need. From the outside, the overall molded plastic seems heavy. The side handle is quite durable, and the wide grip makes it easier for me to carry around and move the battery. It features a snap-on lid, which comes with a strap to keep the battery case completely on the floor or in place.
