I will be going over/inspecting my dexter bearings 7k axle. I would like to have on hand the necessary parts should I need them. Looking at dexters parts they list bearing kits, these kits contain bearings, seals, grease caps and lug nuts. There is no mention of races, I was told to always replace the race when replacing bearings, or was I misinformed on that? Also why the new lug nuts?
Thanks in advance
Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk
New bearings come as a set with the inner and outer. Never replace one without the other. With a year old trailer I'm assuming this is the first time you've opened them up. Unless you've reason believe there might be a problem, your bearings are probably going to be in good shape. I repacked ours after the first year, and they looked brand new. You will need to replace the grease seal. I attached a cross reference on the seals. As to the brand, it is my understanding that most of the automotive bearings sold under the Timken line are made in China. Other than double the price and different box, I've seen no significant difference in the quality or performance of a Chinese Timken bearing or the standard China bearing. If you have good "LOCAL" parts house not a big box, you may find the parts you need cheaper and in stock. I had a local parts house that stocked Dexter seals and bearings for RV dealers in the area. Pulled the first drum then took the seal with me to match up.
Take some time cleaning, inspecting (if there is any discoloration or pitting replace it) and repacking your bearings. Before I reinstall the outer bearing I also pack the center of the hub. Other than that the critical part is the preload. Use a torque wrench. While rotating the tire bring the torque up to about 45#. At that point I use a 3# hammer and whack the tire a few times around the perimeter to seat bearings. Then while rotating the tire bring the torque up to 50#. Without rotating the tire, carefully back off the nut, then finger tighten. When you install the nut retainer you should actually be able wiggle the nut slightly. If you can't the nut is to tight. Reinstall the grease cap. Now is good time to check your brake adjustment. If it's to far off I go through the adjust holes in the backing plate, but if it's close, I'm lazy so rather than try to adjust through that tiny hole, I hook up the truck and rotate the tire in reverse, and have the wife hit the brake letting the self adjusters do the work for me.
I've never found a need to replace the lug nuts, unless they were stripped (in which case you need to also replace the stud). Follow the Dexter instructions for torque!!!