BH 3800 RD - 2011 Underbelly Upgrade - Opinions Wanted

[gomcalli]

Hi everyone,

I would like to thank everyone in advance for your opinions and suggestions.

Taking you back in time about a month and half ago a blackwater leak was found and the coroplast belly material held quite a few gallons of smelly stuff. It was repaired (cross threaded connection and valve seal damage) on warranty, but unfortunetly the dealership didn't replace the coroplastic board (black platic corragated board under unit) and now it sags like a dirty diaper. At this point that sagging is fine but I am a man who likes to upgrade!!!

I am proposing using 25 gauge 1 5/8" steel stud tracking to frame in 2' X 6' polystreren foam board. On the exposed foam board I would re-use (go green) the coroplatic board and the interior use the silver bubble wrap and screw the panels to the frame.

I see two huge benefits. First, the extra insulation for the cold Canadian winter (brrrr) keeping my feets warm. Second, the ability to remove sections of panels to inspect and repair as required.

With every good thing there has to be a downfall. This modification would mean the underbelly would be 1 5/8" closer to the ground.

What I would like from all readers and posters alike is to think if this is worth the trouble, cost and possible issue of contacting the ground when towing.

Thanks for your participation.

G



I see

 

[boatdoc]

IMO, Not worth the time, Not worth the cost and no way is it going to bottom out if you do add it. If it's that cold where you're at, it's time to go South.

 

[kkamshop]

We are also pondering the replacement of the coroplast bottom to allow access and drainage in segments. Not sure what we will do exactly, but the current plan is to use the foam board up against the floor (to keep it dry) and sheet metal with drains similar to the ones in the utility compartments.

We will watch this thread for ideas and updates.

 

[westxsrt10]

Sounds like a good idea. Don't forget to insulate the outer sides of the frame.

 

[Bob&Patty]

Question, why would you insulate the BH that way. I did mine in sections and screwed the 2" foam board to the wood flooring. You will be surprized when you drop the underbelly and see that you have about 8-10 inches between coroplast and the floor. In fact, in all the places I could I doubled it with screws and constrution adhesive.

You want the BR floor warmer....install the foam board in the aluminum stringers inside the front and side storage compartments under the BR floor.

 

[gomcalli]

Thanks for everyone's opinion so far.

To add to my original post I should have included I was toying with the idea of a small ceramic space heater to heat the void between the new panels and the underside of the wood flooring. I think this is a benefit since I prefer the space heaters in the interior of the unit as primary heating source and the furnace as secondary. My preference for space heaters is for two simple reasons a) that furnace is loud (what I think is loud) b) not having to run out of propane every few days. Saying that, if I use space heaters as primary, the underbelly void will not have a regular heat input and I would run the risk of freezing plumbing components.

If the panels and side frame are well insulated with the panel board I proposed then I only foresee the heat trapped in the underbelly void and warming my feets. I think this is a extremely basic version of the Korean Ondol heating systems. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ondol

If I remember correctly I think only 10% is heat is lost to the floor and 50% to the upper, so I that is correct I should have more heat radiating through the floor and warming my little piggies and while having to heat the living space less.

Please keep throwing thought around.

G

 

[2010augusta]

G,

As I am currently fighting with this same issue right now, I will share a few thoughts. (keep in mind we have a 2010 and some of the system have been redesigned)

Our grey #1 tank is mounted very low and currently sages about 5" below the frame when full. I am going to try to reinforce something under the tank to keep it from sagging as much, but this will probably be external of the chloroplast.

Providing drainage is key, there are MANY hole, gaps, and openings in the frame, chloroplast, and cross-members. This allow for road-spray, and condensation to become trapped in the underbelly and make thing damp. You don't have to have a water leak to get a good amount of water trapped on the chloroplast.

There are many barriers and other thing that would make it hard for a small space heater to circulate heat and air through-out the underbelly.

There are a few items that would be hard to lower, i.e. the rear jacks.

Weight, we are already close to being over the GVWR of the trailer and adding more metal, ever if it is a couple dozen Aluminum cross-beams would add too much.

I truly believe that the under belly can be done better, but I just have not had a chance to crawl under enough SOBs to know how they are done. I am to the point that after I put some heat tape on the fresh water tank supply line and drain, I will just replace the ruined matting with Styrofoam and put it all back together and just reinforce the sage of the grey tank.

 

[herefishy]

Are there metal straps running under your tanks to support them when they swell with stuff? Our present trailer has a panel in the underbelly where you can get in it to look around, although there is not enough room to do much.