Blank tank valve very hard to open/close

[khd995]

Does anyone have any ideas or experience with the tank valves becoming extemely hard to open and or close, I am afraid that it is getting ready to break and I want to try to avoid it breaking with a tank full of trouble.

Where, how would I gain access to the point where the valve opens and closes. Would I have to cut the underbelly, if so how would I seal it back up. Is this something I fairly handy guy can fix on his own. Can the old one be fixed or Can the valve be taken out and a new one install with out much trouble,

As you can see, I have a few questions and any ideas, suggestions would be welcomed.
07' 3400 RL

 

[trdeal]

What unit do you own(Landmark,Bighorn,etc)and which tank is it?We own a Landmark and I have had the valve for my gray tank no. 2 out recently.It became very hard to close and last week something popped when I pushed on the handle. On our unit the tanks are heated and enclosed and can be accessed very easily by taking out some bolts and dropping the underbelly at the front of the camper.I took the valve off the pipe and found that it was still in good shape but had stuck.I cleaned it with wd40 and it worked fine.The pop I heard was the cable housing for the valve sliding out of the plastic clamp that holds it in place.This clamp is actually built into the valve assembly.Put the valve assembly back together and installed and reclamped the cable housing and all is well.Hope I didn't confuse you.Don't know all the proper names for the parts but maybe you get the idea.

 

[cookie]

khd995, I don't know if you lube your cable or not but I think it's a good idea. It might help with the opperation. I see that you have a 2007 3400RL. I have a 2008 3400RL so it should be simillar. Start by removing the screws that hold the Coroplast (underbelly plastic) in the area of your drain hook up. Then you will be able to see where your valve is located. You might have to remove some other stuff to do that, such as gas line mounts. I have had mine out and in order to remove the valve I had to cut a grey water pipe to get room for removal. I spliced that pipe back together with a rubber coupling made for home drain lines. Available at a home repair center such as Lowes or Home Depot. Others have had success without cutting the grey water pipe. If you have to cut the belly material, some have used a product called Nashua Flashing Tape. Some have put a board on the inside to overlap the seam and ran a couple of screws in to hold the splice together. So if you are kind of handy this should not be to big of a project. It can be done. Good luck with it and be sure to let us know how you fixed it. Try the lube first though.

Peace
Dave

 

[khd995]

What kind of lube. Do you mean lube the cable, or the actual valve. Do you mean where it connects under the black tank, not where you pull the handle. The reason I ask is the only gas lines I can think would be over by the pull handles.

 

[cookie]

I try to spray the cable where ever I can with a penetrating lube. Not WD-40. It takes some doing to get the stuff in the cable. Working the cable and spraying. The only way you can lube the valve gasket itself would be to get at the valve........take the belly down. I did lube the valve rubber with a plumbing valve lube when I had it appart.

Peace
Dave

 

[khd995]

I really appreaciate the info, however I'm still a little fuzzy on where you are suggesting to put the penetrating oil on, the actual valve, the cable, the pull handle. I am currently at work and can't crawl underneath and get look at or I might understand a little (then again I might not).

Anything someone could add to clear it up (idiot proof it) a bit would be helpful. That way I can stop and get any supplies I might need on my way home.

 

[nscaler2]

khs995,
We were having problems with the black tank valve sticking and when pulled, giving way suddenly. When pulled I could hear a squeaking sound that made me think that the gasket that the blade valve was grabbing onto the blade itself. I was afraid that the sudden release would eventually cause something to break. I read on one of the boards that lubricating the actual plate slide valve might solve the problem. Their solution was to drain the tank and then put a few gallons of water back in. Then flush 2 cups of cooking oil down the toilet. Go back outside and move the valve handle in and out a few times while the oily water is draining. I wouldn't have believed it, however, ours became silky smooth after the treatment. I now do this on a regular basis, on each 4th dump of the tank. Works great!! No more sticky valves. By the way it works well on the gray tanks also. Hope this helps. If you have sticky blade valve gaskets it just might.

 

[jmgratz]

I have lubed our cable where you pull the handle in the UDC. Pull the handle, spray the cable and repeat several times. So far so good. The cooking oil thing might help too.