Bought new Dometic 320 for my RE275, and it was too close to the back wall.....

marknewbill

Well-known member
Hi,
I have a RE275 Pioneer. the 2020 model, so the toilet faces parallel to the wall, not cady corner.
I have the Dometic 300 toilet- it was replaced due to smells issue. I got a few more years out of it, but still having problems.
I want to upgrade.
I bought a 320 thinking it would fit, but to my dismay, it misses fitting by about a quarter of an inch. the flange in the floor is too close to the back wall.
If I caddy corner it, I think it fits, but that messes up the shelves we have over the toilet, and it would have to come down to do that, plus it looks a bit too large for that.

that being said, I know the 310 will fit according to it only needs 10 inches from flange center to the wall according to the manual (320 needed 11). I am planning to exchange the toilet for the 310 unless someone has a better suggestion. we want a tall toilet, not a shorty. the standard is probably OK.

out of curiosity, anyone ever move the floor flange out a quarter of an inch? Im guessing that is probably not possible since it appears to be direct in the top of the black tank?

the wall happens to have a stud directly behind the toilet, otherwise, the paneling would have probably just sunk in enough to accommodate it.

thoughts?
 

rhodies1

Well-known member
You can buy an offset flange. This maybe an option but if the 310 fits and you can exchange without paying dollars. Then I would just exchange it.
 

marknewbill

Well-known member
In the event I need to remove that flange in my fairly newish camper, where I know it goes straight into the black tank, does this thing (after removing wood screws in floor) just screw out of a fitting on the black tank? pondered rotating the flange if I did want to cady corner it, but didnt want to do anything going to break something off under the floor?
 

david-steph2018

Well-known member
Possibility it is glued together. Our pipe was glued together, and I had to cut and replaced the piping to replaced/repair flooring.
 

rhodies1

Well-known member
Chances are the pipe going down into the tank has some form of rubber clamped sleeve connecting it to the tank.. The old saying is…if it’s not broke don’t fix it..leave the pipe going into the tank alone. You will end up having a poop leak. You don’t need that mess in the underbelly. Just put the new one in and move onto something else.. like a cold drink. lol
 

Routemaster

Well-known member
Do you know what I did, got my ceramic grinding wheel for tiles marked up the amount you need to gain and sliced some off worked out well for two years, also I did move the flange a small amount towards the center of the room and down pipe used a rubber connector. Only one think I found out about the 320 I had an internal water gasket leak where the pedestal meet the bowel such a thin moulding and now have to repair the floor beneath the loo.
 

marknewbill

Well-known member
Wow so you removed some of the rear of the bowl? That probably would have worked for me but I sure didn't think of that. I even have the diamond blade tool oh well if this one does for some reason I'll know what to do 😂
 

wdk450

Well-known member
Before I installed my 310 toilet, I had read online about the frequent internal sealing failures and internal leaking, even on supposedly unaffected serial numbers. I disassembled the toilet before install, and sealed up all of these known internal leak points with a high quality sealant before installing. So far, no sign (smell) of internal leaks.
Search this issue using the forum search, or a general online search if you need more info.
 
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